Have a couple open-top revolvers which are brand new - how do I remove the barrels so I can access the cylinders for cleaning, etc.?
Cap & Ball Cleaning/Barrel Removal
- Thread starter Codger Craig Wilcox
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Done - I can remove the barrel wedge without problems, and that's about as far as that goes in the little leaflets and booklets.
I can put the barrel in my vise, but it has been proving difficult to budge the frame, short of using my hammers! And really don't wan tto do that.
But really would like to be able to remove the cylinders as I do with the 1851 and 1858 models with a top cross bar to the frame.
I can put the barrel in my vise, but it has been proving difficult to budge the frame, short of using my hammers! And really don't wan tto do that.
But really would like to be able to remove the cylinders as I do with the 1851 and 1858 models with a top cross bar to the frame.
user 52391
.45 Calibre
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Pull the wedge, put the gun on half-cock & use the loading lever as a jack to get the barrel off. Once you've taken them off a few times, they'll begin to loosen up and will come off easier.
After the wedge is dealt with put the gun on half cock if you haven't already and rotate the cylinder (30 deg.) so that the web between 2 adjacent chambers is at the bottom. Unlatch the loading lever and place the plunger against that web. Pull down on the lever like you were loading and you should have the barrel free. If that doesn't work cut a wooden wedge and place it between the cylinder face and the barrel lug. Smack the wedge with a hammer.
Stay away from the vise (and a Dremel Tool too) unless you want to screw your gun up.
Stay away from the vise (and a Dremel Tool too) unless you want to screw your gun up.
So - no vise, just hand work. Will give that a try, and appreciate it. And I WILL put some anti-seize (a dab anyway) on those threads!
But the way you are directing indicates that there are no threads there, just the barrel wedge to hold it in. Makes sense to me! I made a nice little ebony wedge - a chance to use it for something!
And I think those old folks had small hands - the Uberti 1862 Police 5 1/2" bbl .36 cal is way too small for my hands - the end of it strikes the meaty edge of my hand.
But the way you are directing indicates that there are no threads there, just the barrel wedge to hold it in. Makes sense to me! I made a nice little ebony wedge - a chance to use it for something!
And I think those old folks had small hands - the Uberti 1862 Police 5 1/2" bbl .36 cal is way too small for my hands - the end of it strikes the meaty edge of my hand.
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Bighorserider
40 Cal
On my new Pietta there was a sizable bur on the hole in the arbor where the wedge goes through. Cleaning that up made it much easier to get the barrel off.
Well, with the Uberti .36, the wedge came right out, and a couple taps with the loading lever had the barrel off - danged easy!
With the Pietta short-barreled .44, there was no loading lever, and the wedge was a PITA to get out. Brass punch and my carving hammer finally got it out.
But there is NO "loading lever" with that pistol! It does come with a healthy-sized brass piece that slides through the hole where the loading lever would go. Used the thick part of that to pry first one side, then the other, until that barrel came off. I'd bet it will be easier to get the barrels of both much easier next time.
Truly appreciate the good guidance that you gentlemen have provided. This will teach a 76 year old guy to be more hesitant about trying new things without more information!
With the Pietta short-barreled .44, there was no loading lever, and the wedge was a PITA to get out. Brass punch and my carving hammer finally got it out.
But there is NO "loading lever" with that pistol! It does come with a healthy-sized brass piece that slides through the hole where the loading lever would go. Used the thick part of that to pry first one side, then the other, until that barrel came off. I'd bet it will be easier to get the barrels of both much easier next time.
Truly appreciate the good guidance that you gentlemen have provided. This will teach a 76 year old guy to be more hesitant about trying new things without more information!
Bighorserider
40 Cal
I'm only a year younger than you. Been shooting BP since 1980. Watched a lot of very good YouTube videos to try and learn about C&B revolvers. Got one for Christmas and still have a lot to learn. Mike Belavue , Blackie Thomas, Guns of the West and Old Ranger are all very good and approach the subject differently.
Started ML when I was 14, 1959. Was an unruly teen (tho nothing near what today's kids are up to. Dad was a Navy officer, and he introduced me to a History Proff at U Maryland. He was in the very young NSSA, handed me an 1863 Springfield and a Navy uniform. Qe formed "The Landing Party off The USS Constellation", then - and now - berthed in Baltimore. Went to shoots all around DC at the different bases, went to centennial reenactment of Manassas/Bull Run. Had a lot of fun until we re-located to southern Florida a few years later. When 'i had to take a medical retirement towards the end of 2008, I got to building all sorts of firearms, mostly LR's.
But never got involved in C&B revolvers until just recently - kind of inherited a few that have never been fired - but all are replicas. Five .44's, two .36's. Look OK next to my flint ML pistols!
So happy you gents have placed my feet on the right pathway!
But never got involved in C&B revolvers until just recently - kind of inherited a few that have never been fired - but all are replicas. Five .44's, two .36's. Look OK next to my flint ML pistols!
So happy you gents have placed my feet on the right pathway!
Sell it and get a Remington! 
presoaking the barrel and cylinder with Ballistol before disassembly helps, too.
AZbpBurner
54 Cal.
Step 1: Get a set of PROPERLY Fitting screwdrivers.
I have several sets of properly fitting screwdrivers, and I am not averse to custom-fitting tips to fit a particular screw. The tips are cheap and easy to adapt; screw replacing/repairing is a proper PITA.
I find Wheeler screw driver sets to be of good quality.
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be sure you have the wedge completely out and on the bench top. My brand new Uberti was so tight it was very hard to get of. Pe patient, do not use unnecessary force.
Good Luck
Bunk
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That brass rod for loading is worthless. Look for a cylinder loading press. However that rod is a very handy tool. I use to tap out the wedge, tap the wedge back in place,wrap a patch around it to give the arbor hole in the frame, cylinder and chambers a fast wipe down when shooting, use the end cap to pry off the barrel if it is stuck and you will find other uses.
Snubbies are fun
Bunk
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There's available an aluminum wedge-removing tool, so it won't mar when you tap it out with a small hammer. But any thing that sits on the end of the wedge so you can gently tap it out without marring is ok. No vice! Not necessary. I'm sure guys on here will guide with info.
TrapperDude
50 Cal.
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This is what I use to pull the wedge from my Traditions Trapper:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002288387?pid=861261
I don't have to use it on my 1860, though, because the wedge comes out to where I can pull it with my finger tips after I tap it with the nylon mallet.
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