Brian the Brit said:
I've read somewhere that more guns are ruined through over-cleaning than by neglect so I wondered what the forum experts' advice is in respect of cleaning a typical BP revolver like my Colt 1860?
I can't imagine that when these guns were used in your Civil War they were meticulously stripped down, cleaned, oiled and reassembled after every use - it would have been too easy to lose parts in field conditions.
So what's your routine when you get home from the range with a dirty gun? Care to share?
Brian
Brian,
I use a lot of hot water at my kitchen sink! For the Colts I take the barrel off and the cylinder off the pin. Wash the barrel in hot water, let stand to dry on folded paper towels. Wash the cylinder with the nipples still on it. Then take nipples off of the cylinder and immerse nipples into Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine. This chemical immulsifies BP on contact! It has it's own drying agent in it too. While the nipples are in a little cup cleaning themselves, I use more Bore Shine in the chambers of the cylinder and down the throat of the bore as well. Even after brushing, if I use Bore Shine, more crud will come off, so I basically stopped brushing and instead use two cleaning patches on a regular pistol cleaning rod. Patch down the bore and each chamber until no more crud on patches. Then a quick rinse in hot water and onto the paper towels. The cylinder pin gets wrapped in a couple of patches soaked with Bore Shine...less work that way cause the chemical does the work for you! I also do a "wipe-down" with patches soaked in Bore Shine for the rest of the gun, except for the grips. You would be amazed at how much crud comes off of the area where the hammer meets the frame! Bore Shine wipes it away. Also good for the back of the cylinder into the nipple pockets!
After doing the crevices with a small screwdriver or the end of the cleaning rod eyelet and a patch or two soaked in Bore Shine, I oil-up the frame, hammer, etc., being real sure to get the crud out of the mechanics that turn the cylinder. Bore Shine first, then the oil. At this point, I use Masters synthetic oil in the small bottle with the needle on the end...real easy to apply just the right amount in small spaces like the chambers, where the hammer meets the frame, etc. Also use a drop on each high point on the cylinder where the hardware meets "metal on metal". Take the nipples out of the Bore Shine and wipe them off dry with paper towels, changing the paper as needed. Use a nipple pick to get the last little specs, if needed. Take the cleaning rod and put a single patch on it and run through each chamber with Kleenbore brand oil. Put a drop of Kleenbore oil onto the threads of each of the nipples and re-install each nipple. Apply Masters oil liberally to the cylinder pin and re-install cylinder after first re-installing nipples into the cylinder.
Finish putting the revolver back together, and then function test to determine if everything is properly aligned. I do this simply by pulling back on the hammer to test how much force it takes. At full-cock, I try to turn the cylinder ever so slightly to determine if it locks-up correctly or if it's sloppy or hard. Sloppy or hard mean trouble.
Once a year I do a full strip-down to get into the works near the trigger guard.
That's the medium version...the long version hasn't been typed yet :rotf:
Dave