• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Field/Farm Use of Cap & Ball Revolver

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
On the left, butt forward works really well for me. Never digs into a seat or anything and stays put.
In that position its on the trailing edge as you get in and out of a truck or tractor.

Holster is an old Longhorn, from the year before they were supposed to start making them! LOL.
High on waist at left seems to me easier to reach right handed than at same position on the right side.

Edited to add that the holster is an old Longhorn 10-64 with a fold over top. This keeps the gun high on the waist. the rear of the cylinder is about level with the top of the waist belt. Maybe this is important and why it works for me!
Second picture is an internet but gives the idea of how mine looks..

DSCN2992 - Copy.JPG
S&W_Holster_02B_RE.jpg
 
Last edited:
Interesting thread. Alot of good ideas and observations. Always good to read your thoughts 45D and enjoyed yers also M De Land.

Anyway after reading through this thread here's my thoughts on the original question. Do I carry a C-an-B around my place. Not usually. While I do live in rural Iowa out in the country, I have no bears or other four legged critters that I feel threatened by. At most a coyote or fox who may have eaten to many Wheaties in the morning may try to take me on but very low probability. Iowa deer don't attack, if its happened almost unheard of. Cougars are reported once in a while, but very rare and have never been known to go around buildings or bother anyone. A rare black bear will come from the north once in a while, but everyone forgets the last time its happened. I do keep my Ruger Single Shot 6 that I've had since 1970 loaded (all six) and of easy access, along with a Ruger 10-22 and several loaded mags for small four legged varmints that need dispatching if needed. Work on bigger ones too if proper shot placement is done. Ifin I am carrying a capper around the place it's because I'm doing some walk around plinking or at my range. A modern smokeless revolver/pistol is more dependable I don't care what type of argument is put forward. If I want to be old timey, I'll do so, but not at the cost of dependability. Have no close neighbors to bother.

Now if two legged varmints intent on trouble, well not a nice discussion but one that is on minds, well ifin all I had was one of my many 44 caliber cap and balls or one of my 44 caliber Colt open top or conversions, if one were all I had, shots to the center mass hopefully would remedy the situation, hope that day never comes. But I do keep my trusty Colt 4" Colt Trooper .357 loaded with six beans that I carried most of my 21 years a police officer handy along with a Ruger GP100 .357 and a Colt Double Eagle 45 ACP if needed, all loaded if need be. There's a Smith 9mm in the fray also along with my ol trusty 38 Spec Smith Model 60. I never leave my residence either without CCW. Keep a loaded double 12 and AR handy also. I don't feel the need to go armed 24/7 around the acreage, surrounded by fields, timber, and babbling streams, but am prepared if need be. I do go what some friends and I call "river bankin" once in a while, armed with everything/variety of smokeless handguns, cappers, and conversions, maybe an occasional rifle. Just walk along one of the two rivers plinking at targets of choice or do timber strolls doing the same. Great fun and enjoyment.

I've been shootin black powder since 1972 and have never had a firearm corrode or develop rust spots. Always clean ASP, don't abuse, and have tinkered with all as far as arbors and slicked things up. Still have all original leaf type springs in them, have never had a failure, although I don't shoot competition with them, I do fire 5-6 in rapid succession at times, reloading ASP then firing the cylinder full again. Nothing wrong with 45D's smithing methods or any of the other smiths working on handguns. I always load six and if I don't fire right away, the hammer is rested between cylinders. Have never had a problem in 51 years. By the way, no children around-if grandkids come, safes get locked and my loaded Colt Double Eagle gets out of reach and sight.

I do a pretty good disassembly when cleaning the black powder revolvers. PITA taking the nipples out each time, but worth it. Hot water and Ballistol followed by fast dry down. Use compressed air alot especially the cylinder and nipples and other tight corners. Oil up with Ballistol, lube where needed, and put away till next time. I've always been a fan of white lithium grease where needed and several drops of miltech oil. Have been going to try the synthetic grease for a while-maybe this thread will get me doing so. I do a complete tear down at least once a year, maybe more depending on how much I shot a particular revolver. Sometimes just taking the back strap and trigger guard off and using an aerosol cleaner and compressed air is all that's needed and relubing.

I quit snapping six percussion caps on empty cylinders years ago to clear the nipples. I take a large Q-Tip and swab around inside the cylinder and nipple recess to get any oil that could be present, then give each cylinder a shot of compressed air to blow out any oil in the nipples, place the revolver to the sun or bright light holding it's barrel facing me. Turn the cylinder, if I can view a clear bright light in each nipple, I load and shoot. Have never had a misfire with this method. Keep a can of compressed air handy also when away from my air tank. FWIW---I found some 3F Goex black in a can several years ago that dates back to the late 70's. Probably a quarter of a can. It had been in my shop/garage and survived -25* Iowa winters and high 90* temps and 90% plus humidity. Looked like the powder was new, no rust in or outside the can. Loaded it up in a 2nd Model Colt Dragoon-fire and smoke and the lead balls hit their targets. Have never had any issues with black powder no matter the age. Anyway--got windy-not hard for me to do at times. Enjoy black powder shootin immensely. Good day or night to all.
 
I think that I would convert it to a black powder cartridge gun with a conversion cylinder. Then you can load or unload it at will. As a cap and ball you can’t leave it loaded for a long time and unloading it is a hassle. It is a interesting thought though. But leaving it loaded for any length of time risks having it misfire or corrosion problems.
Not trying to be argumentative but I own a replica Colt 1860 army .44 steel frame, open top and I keep loaded for months on end for home defense and once in awhile I'll go outback and check it. I've found as long as you keep firearm in home no major humidity and seal the end with a wax type lube (i use thompson 1000) and or a dry patch it fires fine after months.

Back in the day before cartridges they did this too (minus the lube). Now the primers are sensitive but other then possibly swapping primers once in awhile it fires fine as long as the end of chamber is sealed.
Same with BP and substitute powders. As long as gun stored in no humid area (mine @ 68-74 degrees, bedroom in holster). Far as powders... with top on container the powder are fine for years.

The only concern I have when storing for months is the primers condition. The colt fires great after months. Assuming I have no snow or rain in house it would fire fine after years .
One guy tested on YouTube a cylinder froze 5 times and set out in 90 degree weather 5 times, so as the cylinder would condensate over a 1 week period. Even put remington primers on before freeze/heat test and it went bang all 6 times on YouTube. So this seems more dependant on how you seal your cylinders.
Recommend look up the test on youtube, pretty cool. Also I use 777 substitute due to I want the ability to make more powerful loads with less grain by volume and reg BP isn't as strong but has a lower ignition point somewhere between 400 & 550 degrees. Whereas 777 I use magnum primers cuz 777 ignition point is much higher @750-780 degrees (pyrodex aYouTube,
There's a trade off on 777 and reg BP. I found 777 power fantastic even comparable to smokeless BUT harder to ignite and not as accurate as BP. Now BP ignites much easier and more accurate but cannot get the power of 777.
777 is awesome to me BUT I would use reg BP for accuratacy. For point blank "boom" I want 777 though. Hope this helps and I'm no expert this is just from my due diligence and personal home loadings.
 

Attachments

  • Video.Guru_20230104_190616187.mp4
    8 MB
Not trying to be argumentative but I own a replica Colt 1860 army .44 steel frame, open top and I keep loaded for months on end for home defense and once in awhile I'll go outback and check it. I've found as long as you keep firearm in home no major humidity and seal the end with a wax type lube (i use thompson 1000) and or a dry patch it fires fine after months.

Back in the day before cartridges they did this too (minus the lube). Now the primers are sensitive but other then possibly swapping primers once in awhile it fires fine as long as the end of chamber is sealed.
Same with BP and substitute powders. As long as gun stored in no humid area (mine @ 68-74 degrees, bedroom in holster). Far as powders... with top on container the powder are fine for years.

The only concern I have when storing for months is the primers condition. The colt fires great after months. Assuming I have no snow or rain in house it would fire fine after years .
One guy tested on YouTube a cylinder froze 5 times and set out in 90 degree weather 5 times, so as the cylinder would condensate over a 1 week period. Even put remington primers on before freeze/heat test and it went bang all 6 times on YouTube. So this seems more dependant on how you seal your cylinders.
Recommend look up the test on youtube, pretty cool. Also I use 777 substitute due to I want the ability to make more powerful loads with less grain by volume and reg BP isn't as strong but has a lower ignition point somewhere between 400 & 550 degrees. Whereas 777 I use magnum primers cuz 777 ignition point is much higher @750-780 degrees (pyrodex aYouTube,
There's a trade off on 777 and reg BP. I found 777 power fantastic even comparable to smokeless BUT harder to ignite and not as accurate as BP. Now BP ignites much easier and more accurate but cannot get the power of 777.
777 is awesome to me BUT I would use reg BP for accuratacy. For point blank "boom" I want 777 though. Hope this helps and I'm no expert this is just from my due diligence and personal home loadings.
Good post. Using a dry lube is a plus. Yeah I have gone a while with one loaded and ready to go. But it may still be a problem one day. I think they were saying that Wild Bill Hickock used to fire his cap and ball gun every day then clean and reload it.
 
Not trying to be argumentative but I own a replica Colt 1860 army .44 steel frame, open top and I keep loaded for months on end for home defense and once in awhile I'll go outback and check it. I've found as long as you keep firearm in home no major humidity and seal the end with a wax type lube (i use thompson 1000) and or a dry patch it fires fine after months.

Back in the day before cartridges they did this too (minus the lube). Now the primers are sensitive but other then possibly swapping primers once in awhile it fires fine as long as the end of chamber is sealed.
Same with BP and substitute powders. As long as gun stored in no humid area (mine @ 68-74 degrees, bedroom in holster). Far as powders... with top on container the powder are fine for years.

The only concern I have when storing for months is the primers condition. The colt fires great after months. Assuming I have no snow or rain in house it would fire fine after years .
One guy tested on YouTube a cylinder froze 5 times and set out in 90 degree weather 5 times, so as the cylinder would condensate over a 1 week period. Even put remington primers on before freeze/heat test and it went bang all 6 times on YouTube. So this seems more dependant on how you seal your cylinders.
Recommend look up the test on youtube, pretty cool. Also I use 777 substitute due to I want the ability to make more powerful loads with less grain by volume and reg BP isn't as strong but has a lower ignition point somewhere between 400 & 550 degrees. Whereas 777 I use magnum primers cuz 777 ignition point is much higher @750-780 degrees (pyrodex aYouTube,
There's a trade off on 777 and reg BP. I found 777 power fantastic even comparable to smokeless BUT harder to ignite and not as accurate as BP. Now BP ignites much easier and more accurate but cannot get the power of 777.
777 is awesome to me BUT I would use reg BP for accuratacy. For point blank "boom" I want 777 though. Hope this helps and I'm no expert this is just from my due diligence and personal home loadings.
I don't believe I've ever left one loaded for months but certainly for weeks. I load bullets, usually with an SPG/Stihl HP Synthetic lube and I'm careful to wipe the base of the bullets after lube/sizing them. I also use Remington #10 caps and they fit snugly on the cones. I've never experienced less than a full power response used this way.
 
I don't believe I've ever left one loaded for months but certainly for weeks. I load bullets, usually with an SPG/Stihl HP Synthetic lube and I'm careful to wipe the base of the bullets after lube/sizing them. I also use Remington #10 caps and they fit snugly on the cones. I've never experienced less than a full power response used this way.
I cannot get my hands on ANY percussion caps (other then DIY). The caps to me are the only problem with any consistency. Would love to find a dealer selling remington #10. Cabellas keeps sending email informing in stock to which they're not. I just broke down and began making own. 1st one hundred were weak, 2nd batch worked 50% and just now after comple months I believe I found a good formula. I must use magnums (DIY at least). I envy anyone that has factory made #10s but I look at this shortage as a learning opportunity.
I just added that last dry wad myself, never read it and thought YES I do hope it adds a little chamber pressure as ive noticed slight compression affects velocity HUGE. PLZ DO NOT USE A CERTAIN STRENGTH TO COMPRESS. I'm talking about when I feel bullet (RB or conical) touch 1st dry wad, I so gently tap it a couple time on the 1860 loading rack & pinion rod. It is a technique because it takes a certain strength to get the .454 bullet to shave off ring WITHOUT pressing so hard I RAM bullet down. So... once I press bullet, I quickly let up and gingerly apply enough force to set bullet on wad and THEN I do the minor taps. I have super compressed a ball a few times (beginning this adventure) and I ended up with a ¼ second or so hang fire that sounded like metal clapping and I then knew the chamber pressure was off the chart. Of course using 777, not standard BP. I can tell by sound now if I got it right and I think I can do it like a machine at this point. If sounds like a "snap BOOM" I'm good as opposed the the metal "CRACK/clap". Distinctive difference I can only describe as metallic clap/crack. I know now how important it is to also have a hardened steel frame. I would be weary to load 25 grain volume 777 into a brase frame. Seriously. I think I'm stressing this replica @ 25 grain 777 but I have to have faith our current metallurgy is sufficient. God bless
 
I cannot get my hands on ANY percussion caps (other then DIY). The caps to me are the only problem with any consistency. Would love to find a dealer selling remington #10. Cabellas keeps sending email informing in stock to which they're not. I just broke down and began making own. 1st one hundred were weak, 2nd batch worked 50% and just now after comple months I believe I found a good formula. I must use magnums (DIY at least). I envy anyone that has factory made #10s but I look at this shortage as a learning opportunity.
I just added that last dry wad myself, never read it and thought YES I do hope it adds a little chamber pressure as ive noticed slight compression affects velocity HUGE. PLZ DO NOT USE A CERTAIN STRENGTH TO COMPRESS. I'm talking about when I feel bullet (RB or conical) touch 1st dry wad, I so gently tap it a couple time on the 1860 loading rack & pinion rod. It is a technique because it takes a certain strength to get the .454 bullet to shave off ring WITHOUT pressing so hard I RAM bullet down. So... once I press bullet, I quickly let up and gingerly apply enough force to set bullet on wad and THEN I do the minor taps. I have super compressed a ball a few times (beginning this adventure) and I ended up with a ¼ second or so hang fire that sounded like metal clapping and I then knew the chamber pressure was off the chart. Of course using 777, not standard BP. I can tell by sound now if I got it right and I think I can do it like a machine at this point. If sounds like a "snap BOOM" I'm good as opposed the the metal "CRACK/clap". Distinctive difference I can only describe as metallic clap/crack. I know now how important it is to also have a hardened steel frame. I would be weary to load 25 grain volume 777 into a brase frame. Seriously. I think I'm stressing this replica @ 25 grain 777 but I have to have faith our current metallurgy is sufficient. God bless
One of the percussion Cap threads here had information about some available caps... I have tried 777 and it’s pretty stout but not as consistent as Swiss 3 or 4f. Of course, I have not been able to source that in a month or two, fortunately I have some in reserve, every order I’ve placed in the past couple of years has included a pound or two extra. (I’m keeping my shelf minimum higher than I ever have in the past. I’m old and could die any day now, or I could live to shoot for another couple of decades. If I do, I need the “makin’s”. If I don’t, the kids, grand kids and great grandkids will get to divvy it up… my son and his granddaughter are the only real blackpowder fans so it’s up to them most likely.

Anyway, T7 seems to ignite just fine with Remington 10’s or RWS 1075’s but the guns are all set up for Remington caps. What a pain in the neck this whole Covid thing has become.
 
Most talk about & know that old black powder, for the most part, shoots well no matter how old. Some on here might take it for granted, but others may not realize that non-corrosive priming (even into the 1940's) wasn't always used. Regular fulminate of mercury eats steel in a hurry. Check old .22 rifles where shorts were fired a lot. Many old .22's chambers are ruined thusly. Same priming compound in old (and some not so old) percussion caps isn't non-corrosive. Foreign caps - Italian 1960's? Don't know.

I plead guilty to trying to use what I find sitting around, including old caps. So, again, learning the hard way, thinking back on a couple of "rust experiences" long ago - those old caps, not powder, were the problem.
 
If I was going to carry a percussion revolver, I'd carry hammer down on an empty cylinder. If I had occasion to fire one chamber, I'd fire them all, and then clean and re-load. Otherwise, it would stay loaded forever.

That said, the only reason I'd resort to carrying a percussion revolver is if I was a felon and could not carry a modern firearm. In my opinion, if you are in a position to really need to carry a firearm throughout your daily business then you should be carrying a modern firearm.
Agreed, but you forgot no ammo scenarios. Remember not too long ago when modern ammo was virtually impossible to find?
 
Reading this reminds me of the turn of the 20th century story of a young Texas Ranger.
He was invited to a Barn Dance and arrived wearing his sidearm. The hostess saw him and asked " oh my, are you expecting trouble?" The Ranger calmly replied " No Ma'am, if I was Expecting trouble I'd have brought my Rifle. "

23 years as a Law Dawg, I've seen MANY occasions where MODERN firearms failed, I'm not talking about on the range.

I'd Never carry a C&B revolver for personal protection no more than I'd carry a Colt SAA on duty. They were great in the day, but have been replaced with more efficient arms.
 
Does anyone carry or use their revolver around the farm/ranch? I typically carry an unmentionable through out my farm and ranch work. Normally to deter predators from livestock and other animals and other various dispatch situations. I've been thinking of carrying my 1851 for this purpose with paper cartridges but have a scenario I'm not sure how to proceed.

Obviously with an unmentionable, should the need arise to fire, the weapon it can be cleared and safe for cleaning. (I clean everything after shooting.) With my 1851 I was thinking of loading five for a safe carry but it maybe several weeks before I shoot all five chambers. What say you in the instances of shooting one or two chambers and what next for proper gun cleaning?

Remove the caps from the remaining chambers and disassemble and clean as required (Cleaning around the unspent chambers.)? Dispatch the remaining rounds (seems wasteful to me) and clean? Leave the gun fouled until the remainder are fired (I cringe at this)? Other suggestions?

How was this done back in the day when this was all that was available, though I suspect EDC was different then as we know it now. Safety being the upmost importance in these scenarios.
I've carried a Baby Dragoon, an 1851 Navy, and an 1860 Army, in the woods while hunting. I've had ALL of them move off the pin on occasion. I wouldn't trust my life on it staying in place.

Maybe a Remington would be safer, but I saw a cowboy saddle a horse and the stirrup fell, landing on his catridge revolver hammer. It was a long ride to the nearest hospital. He cussed the whole way, teaching a 15 year old some new words.

I know of a member who hunts with his smoothbore more than almost anyone here. He swears by only wiping the bore at the end of the day if he's going hunting soon.
 
I just got done with a two month stint of shooting the trapper either every day or every other day. for awhile I was running a bore butter patch down the bore and giveing her a good wipe after every session but then I stopped doing that . just put her away loaded every evening and shoot her again the next afternoon. she worked flawlessly. Finally gave her a good soak and clean the other day. was half expecting a missfire after that. even wasted a cap when i loaded her.
 
ETerry,
Good replies but Elmer Keith would probably disagree about a SA being inefficient.


Nick,
Just unloaded the Tranter. Been loaded a year or more. all went off like fresh loaded except one cap failed to fire. that chamber fired on the second cap.
Must be 18 months when I think about it.

all best,
Richard.
 
ETerry,
Good replies but Elmer Keith would probably disagree about a SA being inefficient.


Nick,
Just unloaded the Tranter. Been loaded a year or more. all went off like fresh loaded except one cap failed to fire. that chamber fired on the second cap.
Must be 18 months when I think about it.

all best,
Richard.
I have almost every book by Keith. You need to remember he was born in 1900.. in his day there was not much wrong with it. He also never walked a beat, which is what I base my experience from. It's not the caliber, it's the platform that has drawbacks.

Jim Courtright, Marshall of Ft. Worth, was killed by Luke Short when Short's first round took off the top of Courtright's thumb, not allowing him to **** his SAA. By the time he got his gun switched to other hand it was all over.

The hammer of John Wesley Hardin's SAA got caught in his suspenders, allowing Tx Rangers to capture him without a shot.

Very few agencies will let you carry a single action ANYTHING. If you've ever chased, then fought, then had to draw your sidearm you'll understand why a single action is NOT what you need.

125 years ago if you applied too much trigger pressure you just said oops, he had that coming. Today is not that way.
 
For working and having a tool that goes bang every time without any fuss yet is housed in a very secure holster with both excellent retention yet very fast draw its hard to beat a glock or other striker fired platform. that being said I would not recommend getting shot with a muzzleloader. then again the smoke pole might just misfire and then you would have plenty of time for a snarky one liner before you ventilated its owner...
 
BTW the reason i hadent had time to give that pistol a real cleaning is because the house i was living in got sold and i had to move out before i had a real place to live and i was camped out in this thing with no running water
IMG_4198.jpg

then when i found a real place to live i had to do a bunch of work on it before i moved in and then i had to move again and still work on the new place and am also working a carpentry job to pay the bills. experience told me that as long as I fired her every day she would be fine and she is.
 
BTW the reason i hadent had time to give that pistol a real cleaning is because the house i was living in got sold and i had to move out before i had a real place to live and i was camped out in this thing with no running waterView attachment 192529
then when i found a real place to live i had to do a bunch of work on it before i moved in and then i had to move again and still work on the new place and am also working a carpentry job to pay the bills. experience told me that as long as I fired her every day she would be fine and she is.
My first efficiency appt in college was just about that size. You go to make up your mind before you entered... there wasn't room to change it.
 
There was a Colt's Navy hanging on a nail by the back door on my great-uncle's farm throughout my childhood. He told me it had been there at least since 1925, and as far as he knew his grandfather had hung it there in 1870 or so. It was "the" farm gun. It always worked. There were still some cartridges around for it, but mostly it was shot with loose powder.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top