Chamber's York build

[Spikebuck]

I have never seen a pre-carved stock that did not require moving the barrel back.

Other than Kibler's kits, neither have I. Usually the back has to be squared up and moved back a bit. That's why you have to inlet the lock plate first if the inlet for that is already there with virtually no wiggle room, then set the barrel to match the right location for the vent centered in the pan.

Lawrence...did they ship you a 5/16" or 1/4" liner?

 

[Kno-ie]

Looking at the photo with the lock and barrel breach area sitting in the stock, it appears that there is a large gap between the stock and breach. That gap appears to be about the set back distance needed to place your punch mark in the center of the pan. As others have said the barrel needs to go back. You also mention that the tang area has been cut and a gap would show up if you set the barrel back. A photo of that area would help to see your issue and may help in away to direct a fix.

 

[LawrenceA]

I had already squared up the breech area and inlet and pinned the barrel before the lock arrived.
There was a gap but not as much as you think.
I have already started bringing the barrel further back slowly slowly and adjusting the breechplug, tang and barrel pin tenons as I go

Live and learn I suppose.

Thank you all for your advice. It is appreciated as always.

 

[Buckskinn]

I did not know that you pinned the barrel already, not the end of the world though. Since I missed that I went through the whole string again. I must say, the painted toenails are a nice touch... Missed that the first go around as well!

 

[LawrenceA]

Lawrence...did they ship you a 5/16" or 1/4" liner?

OOh I don't know!
I based my calcs on 1/4". Thought that was the size.
I could consider a slimmer one if I have the 1/4"!
That would provide more wiggle room.

You, dear sir, are a genius.

 

[Spikebuck]

I based my calcs on 1/4". Thought that was the size.
I could consider a slimmer one if I have the 1/4"!
That would provide more wiggle room.

I've had them ship me the 5/16" on two of the three kits I've gotten from them. I returned them for the 1/4" as I want the smaller one so if something happens in the future, I can always drill larger and install a 5/16". 1/4" is the smallest they have, so if you have that, that's it unless you try to custom make something.

 

[LawrenceA]

It's the 1/4".
I have been setting everything back and am maybe at about 1/16".
The vent hole would now sat almost at the very front of the pan if I were to drill in front of the Breechplug without gouging the face.
slight gap is appearing around the tang but it is not really noticable.
I could upset the top of the tang and swell that area to fill the void but oiling the stock will probably close the gap at this stage.
Anyway will set back another little bit and see how it progresses.
A

Cross your fingers for me please.

 

[Rudyard]

Todays makers allow far more depth than is needed or commonly used originaly. The Brown Bess is scarce deeper than three 1/8th", an original Stuadenmyer Baker Volunteer was less and finger tight . I lop off about enough to give an 1/2" plug you can also cup the breach face and file a grouve . to pinch an extra bit to suit your vent if much depends on the wall thickness ..Ive had no plug fail at proof . You avoid the hole through the plug idea . Never had a kit gun but I stocked up swamped Rice barrel for a customer NICE barrel Rifle after Brong first I heard of him , he also demanded a simple bored vent & a bare wood rod end (wont a 30' case spread with a wedge like a hammer shaft .Do taper end ?. Tapered rods are correct the modern uniform ones less so. well depends on what you want. He had the rifle taper rod & I carved after Brong per order . Dosn't make me Queen of the May nor the tag of' Expert' .Heaven forbid! I just follow original work ' generally your best' Document 'I think these over long plugs are some fear of litigation plan by barrel makers .
Cheers Rudyard

 

[LawrenceA]

You are probably right Rudyard or it may simplify manufacturing somehow.
Anyways I have set the barrel back what I think is enough. The ventliner will place the vent forward of centre maybe 1/32" or 3/64" without gouging the breechplug face.
I intend to drill a 1/16" vent where the liner would sit but not install the vent liner until I have tried it.
Now I need to go repin the barrel and reset the muzzlecap. But too hot right now must be 120.

 

[LawrenceA]

This is where I am stopping.
Tang has a slight gap and vent is almost half way across pan.

 

[Rudyard]

That looks good you could pop a new one nearer the breech face & hollow the breach face bit of chain saw fileing be gobs of room Cheers Rudyard

P S I envy the space in your shop I have to share mine with two dogs a wood stove & a ton of clutter .!

 

[LawrenceA]

That looks good you could pop a new one nearer the breech face & hollow the breach face bit of chain saw fileing be gobs of room Cheers Rudyard

P S I envy the space in your shop I have to share mine with two dogs a wood stove & a ton of clutter .!

Yup

 

[billraby]

Well that was not so bad, was it? Glue some thin slivers of wood along the sides of the tang to fill in those gaps and all will be well.

 

[LawrenceA]

Basically a days work so far and maybe a few more hours getting the pinning and muzzle cap redone.
Not sure about slivers. I think the only bit of maple I have is the scrap from the patchbox but that should be enough.
What glue do you use? PVA?

 

[PathfinderNC]

About the slight gap at the tang inlet- A sliver of maple would be fine. (In my luthier work, I sometimes do that, being careful to match grain patterns and color. I use Titebond wood glue).
I was wondering also if it was possible to widen the top of the tang a bit by cold forging it down a little? It may lower the profile a bit however... just an untested idea.

 

[LawrenceA]

About the slight gap at the tang inlet- A sliver of maple would be fine. (In my luthier work, I sometimes do that, being careful to match grain patterns and color. I use Titebond wood glue).
I was wondering also if it was possible to widen the top of the tang a bit by cold forging it down a little? It may lower the profile a bit however... just an untested idea.

Was wondering the same thing myself

 

[LawrenceA]

Well bits and bobs happening.
Kinda feel like I am on the down hill run now.
I have re set the muzzle cap.

Fit the lockplate and sideplate.
I have filled the gaps with maple slivers.

Fit the trigger and plate but more importantly I have drilled the tang bolt pilot hole.
I think it turned out very well.
As I don't have the luxury of a drill press I used my little jig I got from someone on the ALR forum.


It only does 1/16" but I managed to get the hole to meet in the middle.
Woo Hoo!!!
Crappy photo but you can see light at the end of the tunnel.

i bought an old beech stock to practice carving on soooo.
Just need to fit the triggergaurd and all chisel work is done.
All final fit and finish after that.

I must admit I am struggling with surface rust.
I was going to leave it armory bright but all my waxes and oils can't seem to stop the rust. I suppose it is expected in the tropics but I don't like it.
By the way @PathfinderNJ I have used my little hammer to good effect . You can kinda make out where I have been tapping on the tang to open the flare.
It is working well. The gap is half what it was. One more session will probably sort it.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Every kit gun I've worked with over the last 5 years required the barrel to be moved back. Lawrence, you are using too much inletting black. Dip a tooth brush in the stuff to get a little bit on it then use that brush without recharging the blacking for a long time. Your thick blacking along the edges of mortices makes it very difficult to see gaps forming. About gaps, don't fuss with them right away. First, finish the inletting task and then clean up the wood so you can see the edges of the mortices. Then wet it with water with the inlay in place and see if the gaps close up. If they do, you can expect them to disappear when you stain and finish the gun. If the gaps remain, then consider gluing in a sliver of wood but don't rush into doing that. Be patient and stop using so much black.

dave

 

[PathfinderNC]

Well bits and bobs happening.
Kinda feel like I am on the down hill run now.
I have re set the muzzle cap.
View attachment 63834
Fit the lockplate and sideplate.
I have filled the gaps with maple slivers.
View attachment 63835View attachment 63836
Fit the trigger and plate but more importantly I have drilled the tang bolt pilot hole.
I think it turned out very well.
As I don't have the luxury of a drill press I used my little jig I got from someone on the ALR forum.
View attachment 63837

It only does 1/16" but I managed to get the hole to meet in the middle.
Woo Hoo!!!
Crappy photo but you can see light at the end of the tunnel.
View attachment 63838
i bought an old beech stock to practice carving on soooo.
Just need to fit the triggergaurd and all chisel work is done.
All final fit and finish after that.

I must admit I am struggling with surface rust.
I was going to leave it armory bright but all my waxes and oils can't seem to stop the rust. I suppose it is expected in the tropics but I don't like it.
By the way @PathfinderNJ I have used my little hammer to good effect . You can kinda make out where I have been tapping on the tang to open the flare.
It is working well. The gap is half what it was. One more session will probably sort it.

That's good to see you're meeting the challenges and doing it well! Keep it going

 

[PathfinderNC]

Regarding the 'armory bright' on your barrel: consider knocking off the sharp edges on the flats and softening the edges. Then cold-brown the barrel (or however you prefer to brown it). When you have a nice brown surface and the 'rust' comes off onto your fingers, rub it off with a grey Scotch Bright scrubber (not the green one, it's too course). It will give the metal an aged look and also will help control rust.