Chamfer Cylinder

[CKeshen]

I just got my new Pietta 58 Remmie today and will shoot it tomorrow.

I'm thinking about chamfering the chambers on the cylinder. Want to keep this simple. Any advice/thoughts?

 

[M. De Land]

I use a case mouth chamfer tool. Give each the same amount of turns to keep them consistent. All you really need to is just cut a bit of an angle to get rid of the sharp corner.
I finish them up with a bit of 320 grit emory paper on a spit jag.
Don't over do this or you will encourage spitting out the cylinder gap. Mike D.

 

[BowerR64]

I just got my new Pietta 58 Remmie today and will shoot it tomorrow.

I'm thinking about chamfering the chambers on the cylinder. Want to keep this simple. Any advice/thoughts?

I just used a ball grinder chucked up in my drill. I didnt get real technical. 3/4"

I put a little lapping compound on the ball and didnt put alot of pressure on it like the other guy said just enough to take the edge off. Then cleaned it up with emery cloth

 

[Blizzard of '93]

check the muzzle crown closely. use a magnifying glass if available. any burrs - chamfer off with lapping compound on a ball.

 

[BowerR64]

check the muzzle crown closely. use a magnifying glass if available. any burrs - chamfer off with lapping compound on a ball.

Thats why i got the ball grinders in the first place was for the crown. I found a crown tool on e-bay that has compound with it made of brass that works nice.

I feel the crown is very important with accuracy.

 

[jimnbubba]

Why ?

 

[CKeshen]

I wanted to chamfer the chambers so that the ball would not cut a ring when loaded, but instead swage. I have read other threads where people say this makes for a tighter fit in the chamber (virtually eliminating chain fire possibility) and helps to increase accuracy.

Now that I am thinking more about it, I'm not sure I want to attempt this on my own. I'm fairly handy, but I'm no gunsmith.

The gun shoots great (highly accurate) and I use Wonder Wads anyway so maybe I will forgo the chamfering.

 

[azmntman]

IMHO leave it be!

 

[CaptainKirk]

Here is a close-up of the factory chamfering on my EXCAM Colt Navy. As you can see, it ain't rocket science.....

 

[BowerR64]

Why ?

I did it to a few of mine to stop the ring cutting. Ive found some times the little ring can hang up inside the chamber or around the forcing cone. Im an accuracy junky and want everything simple and quick. When the chamber shaves the ball i have to clean or dig that ring away.

If you ever get a chance to look at the $900. shooter version study it you will see all the mods we do to the factory guns the shooter has already been done.

I do a few other things too, clean the crown,lap the barrel, ream the chambers, polish the trigger. All the dumb little things add up

I also pre weigh my powder and weigh and group my balls.

Why? cause its FUN!

 

[nkbj]

Also check to see if the depth of the final reaming is the same on each chamber. This can be done visually with a good lighting source and viewing the chamber bottoms side by side. Set the cylinder on a flat surface with the front end sitting up. Approach the cylinder from above and the side until the lower ends of the chambers come into view. The end of the final reaming will be above the back end of the chamber. And the one with the most shallow reaming will be apparent. It will also be a slightly smaller diameter than the chamber with the deepest reaming.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

would someone give specifics to acquire suitable reamers for a .44?

 

[M. De Land]

Do you mean a reamer to even up the chamber diameter or do you mean a chamfer tool for the chamber mouth?
I simply use a chucking reamer for the former and do it by feel. I have gone to the trouble of making a barrel spud that is probably a bit more accurate although I doubt one can hold for the difference.
The chamfer is done with case chamfer tool which is hardened tool steel and works just as well for a chamber as it does on a brass case mouth.
By the way, the chamfer in the picture from the factory is over done in my opinion! All that is needed is to break the sharp edge and just begin to cut an angle. To much angle encourages gas spitting/cutting and is harder on solid frame top strap guns. Mike D.

 

[BowerR64]

would someone give specifics to acquire suitable reamers for a .44?

I bought 3 of them but only used 1 so far. I got one of the more expensive ones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007CXN96/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

And i got 2 of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007CTT3A/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_9

I used the cheap one so far on my 2 brass frame colts, it seems to have worked fine. I just got them and its winter here so i havnt had alot of time to shoot them, i shot each one a few times so far so good.

I adjusted mine to the size i wanted then i cut the extra threads off because i wasnt planning to use it at the smaller size.

What i did was i slugged the barrel then kept the ball with me. Put the cylinder in a vise and using a drill press i reamed each one till the slugged ball fit fairly tight into the reamed chamber then cleaned everything all up.

You really dont take much off.

 

[M. De Land]

I have several of these reamers as well and will work fine on chamber mouths but they don't cut clear to the bottom as will a chucking reamer for use in non rebated chambers.
Some chambers are rebated though and must be accounted for to maintain full strength. Mike D.

 

[BowerR64]

I have several of these reamers as well and will work fine on chamber mouths but they don't cut clear to the bottom as will a chucking reamer for use in non rebated chambers.
Some chambers are rebated though and must be accounted for to maintain full strength. Mike D.

Once you adjust these there is alot of the threads left. You could measure the depth and cut the threads off so that it bottoms out before you get to the water table line. I didnt though, mine are brass frame and i use such a light load in them becasue they are brass. Again you are not taking off much or atleast you shouldnt be. :/

 

[BowerR64]

I have several of these reamers as well and will work fine on chamber mouths but they don't cut clear to the bottom as will a chucking reamer for use in non rebated chambers.
Some chambers are rebated though and must be accounted for to maintain full strength. Mike D.

Once you adjust these there is alot of the threads left. You could measure the depth and cut the threads off so that it bottoms out before you get to the water table line. I didnt though, mine are brass frame and i use such a light load in them becasue they are brass. Again you are not taking off much or atleast you shouldnt be. :/

 

[BowerR64]

Why ?

A good clean crown lets the projectile exit the muzzle evenly.

If the crown has any damage on it that can affect the gas on that side as the projectile exits and disturb its flight.

I doubt you can see on our BP guns but on other guns you have you may. A good cut crown should leave even plumes of carbon in a uniform pattern as the gas pushes out. This means its pushing the bullet out evenly.

 

[CaptainKirk]

By the way, the chamfer in the picture from the factory is over done in my opinion! All that is needed is to break the sharp edge and just begin to cut an angle. To much angle encourages gas spitting/cutting and is harder on solid frame top strap guns. Mike D.

Well, I ain't gonna give it back now! LOL :haha:

 

[Cpl. Ashencheeks]

On some of my pistols, the cylinders are barely chamfered at all.

I just used a few very light passes using almost no pressure.

The resultant micro-chamfer on the cylinders is not even noticeable unless using a really strong eye loop.

I do have to say when I did even that little, I was still reluctant to do so.

Your pistols may not need this at all, after all, why risk the damage that can't be reversed.