Charleville First Shoot

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Recently I had the extreme good fortune to acquire a Navy Arms/Miroku Charleville replica from fellow forum member @rickystl. Rick told me that he'd owned the Charleville for some 40 years and it had never been shot. So it was basically "New In Box". And indeed not only was it "in box" but I found not a single scratch on the frizzen, and even the lockworks were still coated with factory grease. You can see detailed pics of Rick's Charleville here in his classified ad: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/miroku-1766-charleville-musket-nib.179827/

I cleaned the lock, polished all the metal, and gave the stock a fresh coat of oil, and after I had gotten some balls and some flints, I assembled my range kit to shoot a .69 caliber musket. I tested sparking and ignition at home (20 grains in the chamber only sounds about as loud as a cap gun when fired in the basement).

Today was a beautiful day, so the Charleville, powder, balls, range kit, etc. and I headed to the range.

charleville_range.JPG


The plan was to see where it was hitting at 25 yards and then move to 50 yards. Also to try loading with some different balls and patches, wads, etc. The balls I brought along were the recommended 0.675, and several different patches. I found they were extremely tight and difficult to start, even with my thinnest 0.010 patch. I had anticipated being able to start and load with just the rammer. Not. Unfortunately, the starters I had in my kit had loading tips way too small for this caliber, and the balls required some serious pounding to get them started, significantly deforming the balls, and so trying to determine point of impact for point of aim even at 25 yards was impossible. Though I did make some pretty big holes in the target backboard. I had better loading success with bare ball on powder, topped off with a paper wad made from crumpled newspaper and lubed with spit. I noted that a patched ball went down much easier past about six inches, and so I'm going to try some very minor coning and bore polishing before next outing. And next outing, I'll also have some smaller balls, and will also try loading them from paper cartridges.

Adding to my loading and shooting frustrations was a meet going on down the line at the 100 yard range, which required lengthy cease-fires while they went out and scored their targets, so I was only able to get off seven shots in an hour and a half. Only one hole in the target and four holes somwhere in the backboard. So I never did get anywhere close to even my first goal of the day.

Anyway, though the Charleville and I didn't get off to the smoothest of starts, I do know that in times past some of the firearms that have caused me the most problems and frustrations at first, through resolving those, have come to be some of my favorite firearms. If a firearm doesn't pose some challenges, it's probably going to be a bore to shoot.

This is one beautiful gun, no doubt. Many say it's more faithful to the Charleville than the Pedersoli. I'm no Charleville expert, but this replica also does seem to be somewhere in between Charleville variants. It's got the pinned rear barrel band and other little differences. No matter. Its place in my collection is to represent an instance of a U.S. Military arm used in the Revolutionary War, and I think it serves its purpose there just fine.
 
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Before you go trying to cone the barrel I have a couple of suggestions. Coning should not be necessary to get this gun to shoot well. We shoot 69 cal military style muzzleloaders over at the NSSA and some of those guys are putting shots in the same holes at 25 yards offhand.

Try using the .675 RB you're using, but use a smaller charge of 3fg and shoot it bare ball. Start at 50 grains and work up to 75 and see what shoots best. A lot of round ball shooter seem to think a gun can't shoot well unless they throw 100 grains of powder down the barrel. I usually just stuff the round ball down there bare after a 62 grain 3fg charge and let it fly with good results. You can put a thin overshot card on top if you're worried about the ball rolling out.

You can try patching the round ball, but .675 is probably too tight since there are no rifling grooves for the patch to get stuffed into.

Alternatively, you can try paper cartridges which are my favorite way of shooting these muskets. My 1842 likes a paper cartridge with a .662 RB and 80-90 grains of 2fg, but I've also used the 62 grain 3fg charge mentioned earlier with good results.

The last load I have is my "plinking" load. It's 62 grains of 3fg, bare .678 (.675 would work too) ball and a sopping wet with olive oil cushion wad on top (similar to to the Skychief load). This keeps the bore nice and clean so I don't have to swab after every 10 shots.

There are a thousand and one ways to load these smoothbores, you'll find a method that works for you. Smoothbores require much more experimentation than rifles, and much more time and patience as a result.
 
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There are a thousand and one ways to load these smoothbores, you'll find a method that works for you. Smoothbores require much more experimentation than rifles, and much more time and patience as a result.
Thanks for the reccos (and the encouragement); already planning some of those suggested. I don't think I mentioned in the OP I was loading 80 gr 2F, which is in the middle of the reccomended range for the Pedersoli version of this musket. .648 balls are on order, which will go in the paper cartridges.
 
Hi Wis. Sounds like the Charleville went to a good home. Glad you like it. Good recommendations in Post #2 above. One minor correction: I actually owned the musket for about 4 years. What I mentioned in my PM was that the gun itself has probably been lying around - somewhere - for the last 40 years or so since that's how long ago it was made. Mirouku stopped making them about then. Too bad. I found this gun at an auction and couldn't resist buying it in a new, untouched condition. I had always wanted a Charleville musket. But never got around to getting one till then. I've shouldered a Pedersoli version. I swear, the Mirouku must be a 1+ lbs. lighter. This may not sound like much, until you shoulder it off-hand. Especially as you get older and these guns seem more heavy than they use to. LOL Time flies. And I never got around to shooting it - as well as some others in my collection. Unfortunately, I've reached an age and time where I need to start thinning the herd. I figured the guns that are in new condition will be the most desirable to a new owner. I hated to let this one go. But then, I don't like letting ANY of them go. LOL But I have to face reality. Again, happy it found a good home. Congratulations.

The "general" rule with smooth bore muskets, if your using patch and ball, is to use a ball 2-3 calibers smaller than the nominal bore size. Track of the Wolf carries balls in .662 and .672 in stock. Order a bag of each and a couple different patch thickness to try out. The .675 is too large to use with a patch as mentioned above. But should be OK for bare ball use. As for powder volume, as mentioned above, some like a certain load of FFG, while others seem to prefer a lighter load of FFFG. I always just kept trying different load variations benched at 25-yards till I found what the gun liked best. Then moved out to 50-yards. Then off-hand. Such is the adventure experimenting with smooth bores. LOL Keep at it. You'll get there.

Rick
 
....One minor correction: I actually owned the musket for about 4 years. What I mentioned in my PM was that the gun itself has probably been lying around - somewhere - for the last 40 years or so since that's how long ago it was made. ...
Sorry, my misunderstanding or misreading. Thanks for correcting "for the record." And for more good advice about ball sizes. I gotta say though, I seem to be collecting a closet full of lead...many different sizes of round balls and conical bullets.
 
For my lead balls in my India made Charleville musket I so far only use either a .648" or a .662" diameter ball. Both are wrapped in cartridges made from brown painters masking paper. I purchased the masking paper from Harbor Freight. I have not found a good load that I am happy with so far but it's a fun gun to shoot.
 
Load that musket up with 100gr of 1f and try a ball that is snug slip fit with the patch or paper. Smoothbores aren’t rifles and have no real benefit from tight patching balls.
 
Sorry, my misunderstanding or misreading. Thanks for correcting "for the record." And for more good advice about ball sizes. I gotta say though, I seem to be collecting a closet full of lead...many different sizes of round balls and conical bullets.
Yes, both the guns and accessories start piling up. It's an addictive hobby.

Rick
 
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