choosing a longrifle

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I am no expert in fit, I am more of a real world try it and see kind of fellow.

Along those lines. i like the idea of a "try stock". A try stock is a simple stock pattern that can be made out of plywood. It is made out of two pieces grooved at the wrist, bolted together. Since it has a groove length can be adjusted as well as up and down.

This is all covered in the book Gunsmith of Grenville County. It has a chapter devoted to making the trystock then converting the measurements to a true stock pattern.

The book retails for about 35-40 bucks but it's well worth it IMHO to educate yourself in fit, especially when considering such a major purchase.
 
glrerun said:
I am looking to have a longrifle made for me, but looking for some feedback what maker I should purchase from.

I have a 12" to 12.1/2" pull so I am probably looking for a semi-custom piece.

Currently thinking of a TVM Iron Pennsylvania Rifle in .32 with a 36" or 42" barrel.

Would like to consider other makers, but I my budget is in the $1,000 to $1,500 range.

What are your suggestions or ideas.


If you want a 32 I would suggest you get one. They are great fun. You did not mention hunting in your post.

The 32 may be a little limited in range but I usually end up shooting off had at 50yds or less anyway. The 32 will shoot at 100 very well on a calm day. Some people love the small bore and some hate it.
 
A couple of years back, I was in the same boat as you. I had a similar budget. After several months of looking, I chose a swamped barrel, Late Virginia style rifle, from Tip Curtis. Nobody, and I mean Nobody can get a fit between wood and metal, that will be better, ( for the money ) than Tip Curtis. I tried to duplicate that rifle, on another rifle, and couldn't do it. Unless he is using Computer Numerical Machines, I do not know how he is producing such perfection in his stocks.
The best way to appreciate a rifle is to handle it. Balance and feel, are as important as function, on a rifle.
 
if you're thinking about getting a .54 later on, I would go for the .40 in a heartbeat.

my three gun battery:
.40
.54
20 gauge

(oh, also my .36, and my .50, and that cute little .45 I built my wife, and ...)

make good smoke!
 
Matt can and will adjust any dimension of a stock that is specified. He's done it for roundball and he's gone out on a limb for me as well. Generally those few who claim problems with TVM don't send them back? Also he builds what one tells him to build; if one doesn't like it, who's fault is it???
 
hanshi said:
Matt can and will adjust any dimension of a stock that is specified. He's done it for roundball and he's gone out on a limb for me as well.

That was my experience with TVM. The built to my exact specs. I'm very happy with the rifle and they were great to work with.
 
MSW said:
if you're thinking about getting a .54 later on, I would go for the .40 in a heartbeat.

my three gun battery:
.40
.54
20 gauge

Agree, otherwise there's not enough separation to make a difference.
I mostly shoot my .40 at the range, the .45 & .50 rarely ever get used, the .58 is my main big game cal.
But lately the 28 & 20 are taking over so much hunting that even the .58 is spending time in the safe.
 
Glrerun I see you are in St.Louis ,if I were you I would take a trip to Bloomfield,Mo and see Chuck Edwards .He knows a little bit about fittin a rifle to YOU.You wont be disappointed.

Havin owned most of the calibers mentioned already I would chose a 40,(easy on the wallet and effective on small game).And find a used 54 latter on(there more of them around).LOP is very important in the fittin and handelin of your gun as it should have cast off for better sight allinement.Swamped barrel is a must also.

Get the right LOP and you will be more sattisfifed .not trin to sound bossy just do it right the first time and save money.Curt
 
Excellent! Thank you very much. I will definitely look him up and head to Bloomfield.

Bloomfield is about 3 hours away and in some great hunting grounds. I am very familiar with that area.
 
Yah he does but he doesn't like to talk about it.

His wife has been nagging him for years to do something with it.

But the way he figures it, "Them spiders ain't hurting nothin as long as you don't stick your hand down in there.
If I knock them webs down the spiders will just move and make it all over again."
 
Not sure what your game laws are in MO, but I hope/trust you do. A lot of folks on here recommending the .40 and while I can't knock it, it's useless for anything but paper here in CT. Max caliber for small game with PRB is .36 and conicals are not allowed for small game. Minimum caliber for deer with ML is .45 and conicals are allowed. .40 sits in between and can't be hunted with,,,, legally. Of course, you're in a "free state," unlike us.

Point being, make sure you can use what you hard to come by dollars get spent on.
 
Good point. the choice of a hunting rifle caliber may have more
to do with the state game commission's bureaucratic BS than
is dose to ballistics.
 
My 2 cents: IF it was me & was going to have ONE ML rifle it would be a .45cal PRB firearm, which is lawful in every state (that allows rifles) for deer hunting and acceptable for small game in nearly all states.
(That said, I wouldn't part with my .58cal Zouave "carbine".)

yours, satx
 
Ifn I haz only onse choys, twood be a 54. Load up or down as need, can even spit out shot, speshly wit a spare smoooooth barl. Woots not to luv.:v
 
If you have a 50 and want a 32, go for it. I have a 32 and love shooting it. Lots of shooting, very little powder, lots of balls per pound and it works great on paper or small game. Shooting to 50 yeards, there is absolutely no advantage to a 36, 40 or 45 for small game, or paper. If I wanted to use one gun to shoot everything, as I said above I would choose a 54 and load up or down, but you can already do this with the 50 you have on hand now.

32s are great fun. I bet you love it if you do get one.
 
"His wife has been nagging him for years to do something with it."


Did he get re-married? Last I heard she died.

We went into his tent in Phoenix this year and he would not wait on us, he wanted to go eat in town.

Went back the next day at 3:00 PM, he would not wait on my wife, she had $2,000 in her pocket to spend and could not find a rifle she liked and he did not wait on her.

Caps were $12.00 per tin.

Tip, not in Phoenix.
 
There are people on here that are a ton more familiar with muzzleloaders than me.

However, in addition to getting fitted in person by someone locally. I would also bring along a iron sighted gun that fits you well. Might help him determine what you like in length of pull comb, cast, and so on.

Also, keep in mind the time of year you mainly want this for. Likely late season hunting. Bring your hunting coat and gloves you typically use when firearms hunting or shooting in cold weather.

Typically, this is what the high end shotgun guys suggest when getting fitted to a custom gun.

You mentioned you preferred a 12.5" length of pull. Do you or anyone you know own anything iron sighted like this?

Also, keep in mind modern arms with iron sights are intended to be scoped, so that comb can be a bit on the high side.

Since you seem rather specific on how your gun fits. Might be a great idea to build it your self. Get the barrel, lock and trigger set in, then finish the stock as you go along. Slowly take off material until you get what you like.

IF you seem to like the hawken, then buy a hawken kit. However, you can tewwk the comb and cast of your current hawken with padding.

By the way, did you want a flint or percussion?
 
Nope 45cal or nuting a great cal. Good all round gun. Deer or small game does not matter . There so good today I gave away 3 flintlocks with pouches and horns and cleaning rods. Boy where my. Boys and daughter some happy. Now I am down to . Just 2 45s and a20 smoothbore . Just my rant
 

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