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mountainman119

32 Cal.
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
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starting chunk gun shooting ... just wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks they have learned over the years
Thanks
 
MountainMan,
There's no easy way to do it, just get down in the dirt and do it. The addiction comes real quick.
Mark
 
Like Papa said, you just have to go to a match and do it. You can use any traditional rifle, so if you've got one you already have the means to start. Before you sink a bunch of money and work into it you'll want to be sure it's the sport for you. All you need is your rifle and a block of wood (could be a piece of log, boards nailed together or a piece of timber). Just don't cut or carve any grooves in the top. You might want a pad or blanket or tarp to lie down on (definitely needed in damp or wet weather). A spotting scope or at least a good pair of field glasses for when you're shooting your practice group. Some matches are held at ranges without loading benches (such as the York Shoot), so unless you want to load out of your pouch you'll need a table for a range box. You can shoot without all these things, but you'll find they make things a lot easier and more comfortable.

Shaders for your sights are not necessary but definitely recommended. If you can make a cant block for your rifle, it will stabilize it and keep it level as well as protect the stock while lying across the chunk. Make the height of your chunk high enough that you will comfortable while shooting prone. If you're shooting an offhand gun you'll find that the chunk will probably need to be higher than when using most chunk guns. These are often built with less drop in the stock. Be sure to make your sighter target in a shape and color that will work well with the sights on your gun. You will want to see it clearly. You also need to sight the gun to hit in a place that won't tear the sighter up.

Learn to read the light and wind and know how much drift you can expect from your rifle at 60 yards with varying winds. That's not always easy. I still mis-read it a lot. Light changes are even harder for me. Mirages are common and can surely ruin your day.

Keep your loading procedure consistent. I recommend weighing your balls and using only those within a 10th of a grain of each other. I usually average 13 to 16 balls in a 10 shot match. (3 to 6 to shoot for group + 10 score) Some allow more variation, but I want to take out as many variables as I can. I have enough to worry about with me and the weather and other things. Be consistent in how you lie down and hold your rifle. That includes how you position your feet, elbows and how your cheek touches the stock.

Watch other shooters, especially those who consistently shoot well. Ask questions when you can, just don't interrupt when they're shooting (unless they invite you to). Take your time. You generally have between 20 to 30 minutes to get a group shot in. Once the shooting starts for score, each match lasts as long as it takes for everyone to get their shot off. (At Friendship they have a different set-up, but this is how it's done at all the matches I've shot at.) This works well because sometimes you just have to wait for the wind to change or a cloud to pass over. Still, you can't wait all day.

There are a lot of little things that each shooter does to improve his chances, but some things that work for one guy may not work for the next. It takes time and experience with the gun you use to see what load is best in certain conditions and what position is best for you when shooting prone. Even ground conditions will affect these things.

This style of shooting can be extremely frustrating at times. But being that way only makes it sweeter when you get that first spider or win that first match. Then you feel like you've done something. It's a different animal. I can't wait for Spring myself.
:thumbsup:
 
Here's the chunk gun tip of the week. Spend some serious time on your home range establishing the height of your chunk. Low is good but as we get older this gets tougher to do. Just try to get real comfortable. You might shoot several different days to settle into things.

Once you've got things right cut a small block of wood to put under the butt of the gun. Just the right height so when the butt is setting on it the sights will be aimed at the target. Now when you go to another range you whip out this block, put it under the butt & adjust the chunk height to aim at the target. You then throw it back in the shooting box as you can't use it when you shoot. Also put some marks on your pad so you crawl into the gun at the same angle each time. These two things will get it so things feel somewhat the same no matter what range you're on. At least it will speed up the setup time. Usually I'm within an 1/8" or so of being right doing this.

Other than that, it's a muzzleloader, I assume that you two have met. :grin:

Paul
 
There is a growing number of folks taking up 'chunk gun' shooting.

It is up to the folks running the match but some matches are fixed sights only, meaning the adjustable sight has to go. Some matches allow adjustable sights on rifles but they are marked so they know you haven't adjusted it during the match. Be ready to put a fixed sight on your rifle.

The range is typically sixty yards, not many ranges have that distance marked. So you're on your own regarding how your range handles odd distances regarding targets.

It's another option in the world of muzzleloading shooting. Give it a try you may really like it. g
 
Paul, you ready for the Big Show? I've not been able to get any shooting in and I'm about to have a fit.
 
Ya, I hear you. Chunk gun & golf clubs both in moth balls these days. Hopefully March will give me some range time leading into the York. We all head to Coons hog shooot a couple of weeks before. So that will be a good warm up if the weather allows. There's been a couple of "hog raffles" in the last several years as we were snowed or rained out.

Meanwhile back to chunkgun tips. Be carefull how tightly you grip the wrist with your trigger hand. A tight grip will put stresses on the gun that will show up during recoil. To prove it shoot a few with you thumb over the top of the wrist & tightly squashed around the thing. Then shoot a few with the thumb just resting on top of the lock side of the wrist with no pressure from the thumb or the fingers of this hand. My cheek & left hand under the butt support the gun & the trigger hand basically pulls the trigger & nothing else.

Paul
 
Joe Lycan is hoping to have a shoot before the York at his range, so I'll try to get some much needed practice in there if not before.

I remember you told me of that technique at the York year before last. I tried it, but couldn't see much improvement, but that weekend the conditions were so lousy I don't think anything would've helped. I was sinking in the mud so bad and the rain made it so hard to see that I was lucky to even see my sighter. After the Bill Large shoot in Ironton last Fall several of us shot a .22 bench gun using that style and it worked great. It was on a sled though and we couldn't even touch the stock with our cheeks. I believe with some practice, what you told me will make a big difference. The less we interfere with the gun and let it do it's thing the better off we are. I've got to work up a different load to control recoil and still keep my velocity up. If I do that, your technique will work better for me.
 
shortstring said:
Meanwhile back to chunkgun tips. Be carefull how tightly you grip the wrist with your trigger hand. A tight grip will put stresses on the gun that will show up during recoil. To prove it shoot a few with you thumb over the top of the wrist & tightly squashed around the thing. Then shoot a few with the thumb just resting on top of the lock side of the wrist with no pressure from the thumb or the fingers of this hand. My cheek & left hand under the butt support the gun & the trigger hand basically pulls the trigger & nothing else.

Paul

Paul, you'd better be careful giving out secrets like that free of charge. I tried what you said the other day and after 6 shots my total was under 4 inches. I ran out of patching material and was almost out of daylight so I didn't get the full 10 shots in.

That may be a good thing for me though, I didn't get the big head over how I was shooting and shoot a 3" on shots 7-10. :hmm:
 
[/quote]

Paul, you'd better be careful giving out secrets like that free of charge. I tried what you said the other day and after 6 shots my total was under 4 inches. I ran out of patching material and was almost out of daylight so I didn't get the full 10 shots in.

That may be a good thing for me though, I didn't get the big head over how I was shooting and shoot a 3" on shots 7-10. :hmm: [/quote]


Hey, ain't no secrets here. You shootin better is good for our game. Now, remember that in the "big" match that it don't mean a friggin thing. Just shoot the ball that's in the barrel & when the day's over add em up & see what you've got. And remember that no one deserves to win the match more than you, so pound em. Take a big slab of steaks off the table this year. See you in a few weeks.

Paul
 
KanawhaRanger said:
Paul, you ready for the Big Show? I've not been able to get any shooting in and I'm about to have a fit.
hey what is the average across the flats people are shoothing now a days.
I have always wanted to don my canvas bibs and go shoot chunk gun but it has no following here in CO.
:shake:
 
The size of barrels has sort of evolved over the last 20 years or so. It used to be that 1 1/8 & 1 1/4 was pretty much the norm. Always a few larger but mostly around that. Now days the trend is up a bit in size 1 3/8, 1 1/2 & up are seen more commonly. Same thing with caliber. Used to be 40s & 45s made up most of the guns. That too has headed up to 50s mostly & some 54s. Also different areas of the country have there own trends as far as such things are concerned. I've shot the Bevels shoot near Kansas City & it seemed that smaller guns were still being used more than say at the Southern Ohio shoots.
 
Like Paul said there is a variety of sizes available and being used. I haven't shot in any of the midwestern or northern shoots, but in WV, eastern KY and SE Ohio you'll see a little of everything, but I'd say the trend is toward longer and heavier barrels with the larger calibers. Old Myrt is .50 cal. and 1 1/4" across the flats but only 42 inches long. If I ever build another it'll have at least a 48" barrel, probably longer. I like a long sight radius. Also, round barrels are showing up at quite a few shoots nowadays. Myself, I just think an octagon barrel is just purtier and easier to file dovetails, &c. into.
 
Ranger,
If you like long barrels, I have one available with a 54" Howard Kelly barrel in .40 caliber, FLINT. Built by Ron Borron and shot by him.
Mark
 
Chunk Gun matches are shot at 60 yards. Most of the shooters still use smaller calibers, because its more likely that the PRB they shoot will still be moving above the Speed of Sound at that distance. Because its an iron sight match, with no peeps or tangs allowed, You see a lot of longer barreled guns on the target ranges. But, 42 inches seems to be about typical. My brother is using a .40 caliber underhammer rifle he built, and his performance this past year at Pall Mall was a great improvement over his 2009 performance.
 
Thanks for the offer but I think I'll stick with old Myrt for a while. She's been improving with age and she's only 2 years old. The barrel is a taper bored Hoyt on a half stock with an external mainspring mule ear I made.

But one of these days I'm thinking of a fullstock flintlock with a longer barrel, maybe one of Paul's. They do real good. Meanwhile I'll keep banging away with the one I got. I know she shoots better than I can shoot her. I've held my own at a couple of matches and keep slowly climbing the ranks at the Big Show.
 
Jed,
Be glad to send you some pics, can't seem to get the hang of posting. Need an email address.
Mark
 
Speaking of chunk guns, can anyone give the contact information for Ron Borron? He built a chunk gun for me a long time ago but I've lost touch.
 
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