cleaning guns with fullstocks

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Just curious how people clean their fullstock guns that do not have barrels that easily remove. Do you plug the vent? Or do you just let the dirty water run down the stock?
 
I bought one of these for my flintlocks and it didn't fit any of my longrifles. The stock on the side away from the touch hole was too high for the clamp to fit on. It worked fine for the plains style rifles with hooked breach. I could take the barrel off and it worked just fine but it didn't make sense to use it if I could remove the barrel and just dunk it in a bucket. I know it works for some rifles. To work, the barrel on the off side needs enough of the side flat exposed for the device to clamp onto, or the stock on that side needs to be flat enough for the device to clamp onto. Otherwise, it just slips off.
 
I remove the lock and wad a piece of paper towel into the open mortice. Use a tooth pick to plug the touch hole and clean away. The towel catches any liquid that may sometimes seep past the tooth pick.
 
Black Jaque said:
Just curious how people clean their fullstock guns that do not have barrels that easily remove. Do you plug the vent? Or do you just let the dirty water run down the stock?
With mine having Patent Breeches cleaning is a snap just laying across my carpeted workbench.
But for straight breeches, a pretty good option that works well if you have a removable vent liner, is the one that is simply a piece of clear plastic tubing with a threaded fitting on one end to match the threads in your vent liner seat.
Remove the liner, screw in the fitting (has an O-ring to prevent any leakage) and stick the tube into a bucket of cleaning solution of your choice...pump flush, etc
 
Loooong ago I had a lil bottle with plastic tube gizzmo for nipples. I wasnt impressed with the amount of solution transferred though to pitched t. Tube into bucket though????
 
When cleaning in the field I use very little liquid and put a n absorbent patch next to the vent and close the frizzen on it.
When doing a thorough cleaning at home I have a cradle which holds the rifle horizontally up side down. I remove the lock and force liquid through the barrel ( using wet patches). Any liquid can be wiped quickly off the stock. I will usually let a wet patch stay in the barrel for a few minutes to soften the fouling, then use a bottom scraper clean, the breech face followed by patches both wet and dry till clean, followed by an oiled patch. Perhaps three times a year I will remove the barrel and use the tub method. I build my long guns with keys which, I think, make them easier to remove to clean. That is my method, however it's not the only method. I am sure you will develop a system that will work for you.
 
In 40 years, I have removed the barrel only twice. My stock is highly figured maple and I fear it will crack if I look at it crosseyed. :shocked2:
I remove lock and put a round toothpick in touch hole and clean from there. Any spillage is cleaned up as quickly as possible. I also protect the stock with various products.
 
I lay the rifle upside down in the groove of my black and decker saw horse. I have a gallon size jug with a pump attachment that I attached a hose and PVC pipe to. Run the pipe down the bore and give it a few squirts. Let the water run out the nipple it justs goes down on the ground. Now you don't need the pump apparatus you can just use a wet patch. I have heard guys build a simple stand or clamp boards to the side of a utility sink to hold the rifle upside down.
 
Touch hole facing down in a cradle, small pan under touchhole, muzzle a little lower. If you get spillage, it does not get under the stock.
 
Working with reproduction Brown Bess muskets at the museum where I worked, we developed a good way to clean the barrels after reenactments that did not require removal of the barrels. First we would remove the lock and clean that separately. A damp cloth would be used to clean the vent area on the side of the barrel and any powder residue on the stock or inside the lock mortice.

Next the vent would be plugged using a bamboo "fondue" skewer cut to about 4", taking care to see that it was water-tight. The gun would be set on its butt and using a funnel, a half-cup of Hydrogen peroxide would be poured down the barrel. A thumb would be placed over the muzzle and the gun inverted several times to get the solution to "work." (the barrel does get hot) After a few minutes, this would be dumped out and another half cup of peroxide would be added and the procedure repeated. After the second peroxide solution was dumped, pure water would follow using the same procedure.

Its not a bad idea to keep the lock side facing down, the gun on about a 45 degree angle, and have an absorbent cloth stuffed into the lock mortice while pouring liquids down the bore, just in case. I had used "Renaissance wax" on the underside of the barrels and in the barrel channels when the guns were new and unfired, so water did not easily get between barrel and stock.

After the pure water rinse, cotton muslin cloth patches would be used to dry the bore Once dry and clean, it would be lightly oiled using either "balistol" or Rig, or sometimes even automobile ATF as a rust preventative. After 15 years of service they are still in like-new condition.
 
Maybe I'm behind the times but I only remove the barrels (perhaps) once a year to check it all over and apply a bit of grease. After removing the lock I plug the vent hole and fill the bore with water and let it stand for 10 minutes while I clean and oil the lock. Next I pour out the water and swab the bore. I keep swabbing with wet/dry/wet/dry until I think it's clean. Then I dry it thoroughly, apply Barricade, install lock and wipe it down.
 
I think leaving the barrel in place is common practice with fullstocks or at least guns without hooked breaches. Once you feel how delicate that long stock is without the barrel in place you realize that you're flirting with disaster.

I just notice that there seems to be no perfect way to seal the touchhole. I always get some dirty water leaking down the stock. Often after I dump the barrel out and remove the toothpick.
 
Black Jaque said:
Once you feel how delicate that long stock is without the barrel in place you realize that you're flirting with disaster.
FWIW, I keep a brass ramrod in the thimbles to be a strong rigid 'spine' as a hedge against breakage
 
I have a tubing device for my percussion barrels. Let me share my early experience with it. The first time I used it, I filled a can with the soapy water, put the tube into the can and sucked water into the barrel. So far, so good. Then I pushed the cleaning rod back in the barrel and the end of the tube came shooting out of the can and sprayed my workbench with soapy water. :confused: Okay, my fault. :doh: I dried off everything that had gotten wet. Then, I thought :hmm: that if I put it into a bottle, it would stay in place. Wrong. that tube shot out of the bottle like a cobra with its tail in a light socket. I sprayed my bench again. :cursing: Once more, I dried off everything that had gotten wet for a second time. My bad #2. It was obvious that this device would do a good job if I could keep in in the soapy water throughout the cleaning process. I saw an empty water bottle in the trash with the cap still on it. Inspiration set in. :shocked2: I drilled a hole in the cap that was a snug fit around the tube and added an air hole. I poured my soapy water into the water bottle, screwed on the cap with the tube stuck through it and sat the bottle so that it couldn't turn over. BINGO! :applause: the thing worked just as it was supposed to and no soapy water was spraying all over my bench this time. Once I figured out to use it, it has been one dandy device. :thumbsup:
 
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