• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Cleaning inside the house.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I can't say the same thing when I was using the boiling water method followed by Bore Butter. Hell, I couldn't STOP the bore from rusting using that method!

:hmm:
Not trying to start anything here, just wanted to offer an opinion based upon my personal use of Natural Lube 1000 (bore butter).

I don't think an experience like yours is a "product problem"...in contrast I've used nothing but NL1000 bore butter for 15+ years on many rifles whose bores today still look and shoot like new, so the product obviously works fine.

FWIW, what I've come to suspect over the years is that bore butter users may not apply enough bore butter, and I use as an example TC's own "Cleaning & Seasoning" patches which are prelubed with Natural Lube 1000 (bore butter) and offerred for sale as lubing patches.

A reasonable person, especially after spending years of simply running an oiled patch down & up the bore of a centerfire rifle one time, would read the instructions on TC's packaging, and conclude they simply need to run a bore butter patch down & up the bore, like they've always done with centerfire rifles...but unfortunately, that's where the problem lies...there's not enough bore butter on those patches and bore butter doesn't 'run' or 'migrate' like oils do.

A single patch out of a TC package of C&S patches won't get it done...not enough lube to coat every square inch of a bore, and because it doesn't run, it only covers what it happens to touch.

The process which has worked for me so well is this:
after a 100% cleaning & 100% drying, I literally use a popcicle stick (screwdriver blade, etc) to scoop NL1000 out of it's tube, and reach into the muzzle to pack it into the lands as far as I can reach...then I use the popcicle stick to spread it on a large cotton patch and run it up and down the bore a few strokes.

Then I repeat that whole cycle a couple more times so there's no question that every square inch of the bore is heavily coated with sticky bore butter so no air can touch the bore's surface.

If a bore is 100% clean, then 100% dry, then 100% coated & insulated from air contact, it cannot rust...almost doesn't matter what lube is being used if these three steps are followed religiously.

Not trying to convert you or anyone to using bore butter, just wanted to clarify that Natural Lube 1000 (bore butter) is actually an excellent product and works perfectly for me using as I do...takes longer to describe the steps than it does to do them.
:m2c:
 
I have been using bore butter for a long time. 15years +. I have never had a bore rust IF I used enough bore butter. But, like Roundball says, you have to use a lot. I don't go to his extreme but it is pretty well packed in. I have to clean the bore again before I can shoot. Have to get that bore butter out. Even my CVA .54 has a clean bore and it is 25 years old. Bore butter works if you work it in.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top