Cleaning revolvers

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Wouldn't the lead be going down the drain? If worried, run the dishwasher empty after cleaning your guns/parts.
Well you would hope so . . . why risk the health issues though. Just my opinion. If you feel safe with it, that's OK with me.

Mike
We could coin a new phrase, “Madder than @SOLANCO!” ;-)
 
I tried packing on a Ubrti 1851 Navy .45 Dragoon did for me and found after a little over 100 rounds that the red grease was black and gritty. I guess it was lapping all the parts to smoothness but that was redundant because the Goonster had already done so if it works for you that is fine, but a good strip down clean every 100 to 150 or so rounds is a good idea to be sure everything inside is in good order.
Respectfully submitted
Bunk
P.S. Mike did the all coil spring trigger/ bolt and hand spring and plunger with an adjustable trigger pull made a a great shooter.
 
I just line up a row of empty cap tins and each one gets that set of what ever parts left to right as you take apart..
then go back together right to left.
My work area is the back of a magnetic sign so dropped parts do not roll off onto the floor and get eaten by the dust bunnies. Better to have a "where did that come from" moment than a "where did that go?" moment.
hold center
Bunk
The back of a magnetic sign is brilliant. I am on the hunt for one now. Can't believe this is the first I've heard of this. Thanks for the idea.
 
Well, as long as there is grease migrating through the frame, you'll maintain lubrication. If it "looks dirty" and you don't feel comfortable, clean it out and re-pack. Do you change the oil in your car because it gets dark or do you use a "mark" for changing? Obviously, packing along with an action shield makes a huge difference!! The shield keeps most contaminants out in the first place but any ingress gets caught in the grease and suspended until removed (which could be 1 -3 years). Without a shield, it may not " look" pretty but it won hurt anything either!
(Thanks for the kind words Bunk!!! )

Mike
 
After about 150 rounds over the past two weeks the residue in my Uberti 1861 Navy frame was very gritty in texture. It may be from RWS caps, but I do not feel like shooting up a lot of Remington #10 caps to see.
One thing for sure if the gun had been grease packed it would have been an abrasive mess.
I also found out for sure Slixshot cones and RWS caps do not work together at all and before some one chimes in with "push down harder" the Gunslinger main spring was replaced with the original Semi-truck front end main spring and they still took a second strike almost all the time. I even tried, with the gun empty and the original main spring,, pulling the hammer back to full cock, carefully lowered the hammer to half cock and let it slip. Still had to make a second strike.
Gave reference to the Deity, a water retention structure and the male child of a female dog, (family friendly) replaced the Gunslinger spring and gave consideration to the problem since I have a good supply of RWS 1075 caps..
Usually one of the five rounds would work so it is a kind of semi dry fire never know when or if there would be a bang or a clunk. Call it "damp fire" I guess. Living in a rural area and having a range in the back yard helps.
Respectfully submitted
Bunk
 
Well I was wrong my Colt 1861 Navy will need a complete down to bare bones after 5about 50 rounds Somehow had a cap fragment got around the Goonster's cap rake and required complete strip down to dig it out. Live and learn.
Also the RWS cap problem is solved. I replaced the Gunslinger main spring with an original semi-truck front end spring (OEM) and with clean slick Slixshot cones get almost 100% ignition. The little brass loading rod that came with my Pietta snubby makes a great handy tool to seat caps and is also used to knock out and replace the wedge.
Respectfully
Bunk
same Bunk as above under new name. Don't ask i don't know.
 
Well I was wrong my Colt 1861 Navy will need a complete down to bare bones after 5about 50 rounds Somehow had a cap fragment got around the Goonster's cap rake and required complete strip down to dig it out. Live and learn.
Also the RWS cap problem is solved. I replaced the Gunslinger main spring with an original semi-truck front end spring (OEM) and with clean slick Slixshot cones get almost 100% ignition. The little brass loading rod that came with my Pietta snubby makes a great handy tool to seat caps and is also used to knock out and replace the wedge.
Respectfully
Bunk
same Bunk as above under new name. Don't ask i don't know.
Welcome to the forum! :cool::ghostly:
 
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