Cleaning / Shining up Brass Framed Revolvers?

[Tyler L]

It will make it shiny. If you don't neutralize the sauce by rinsing, it will turn the brass a reddish looking color. But it will still polish up shiny. I spray it with Dawn and rinse.
Don't know why, but vinegar will do the same but it has to be in the vinegar. I think the sauce makes it stay on. Im pretty sure it's the vinegar in the sauce, but it might also be the acidity in the peppers used to make it.
I did this one.

The reddish (or pinkish) color is because brass is composed mostly of copper and zinc, and acids tend to eat away at the zinc first, leaving a mostly copper layer on the surface. I believe this is called "dezincification". As you found, polishing removes that copper-only layer and exposes the brass underneath.

In lieu of hot sauce, ketchup also works, or a mixture of vinegar and flour can be used to make a paste that does the same thing.

 

[Old-Duckman]

dezincification, love it! There is a word for everything.

Bought a used truck last weekend and unfortunately the previous owner was a smoker. I’m in the process of destinkification. Did the recommended procedure with OdoBan from their YouTube channel, hoping it lasts! I’m sure I didn’t coin a word but your post gave me inspiration.

 

[Jappo]

The reddish (or pinkish) color is because brass is composed mostly of copper and zinc, and acids tend to eat away at the zinc first, leaving a mostly copper layer on the surface. I believe this is called "dezincification". As you found, polishing removes that copper-only layer and exposes the brass underneath.

In lieu of hot sauce, ketchup also works, or a mixture of vinegar and flour can be used to make a paste that does the same thing.

Fine steel wool will work well without any chemicals. I only use that method for brass needing a good cleaning.
Like this one.

 

[Pete G]

I will never understand the allure of shiny brass.

 

[Piquant]

I will never understand the allure of shiny brass.

I will never understand the lured of tarnish brass

 

[RATKAS]

I will never understand the allure of shiny brass.

It all depends on the individual I guess. I think the old saying "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" is of importance here. I for one love the mirror polish of the brass on my Remington .31 pocket revolver. I absolutely love that mirror finish that gives off a golden shine! In my view it compliments the darker parts of the firearm.

 

[andy52]

I will never understand the allure of shiny brass.

Me either.

 

[M. De Land]

Me either.

I prefer the dull brass look compared to shinny but mainly can't get past the tendency for brass frame guns to imprint the ratchet star into the recoil shield, develop excessive barrel/cylinder gap and loosen in the arbor thread over time and use being excelorated by normal loads for a steel frame gun.
I've wondered if a brass frame gun could not be beefed up with a steel bushing, arbor threaded implant to negate this weakness.

 

[andy52]

I prefer the dull brass look compared to shinny but mainly can't get past the tendency for brass frame guns to imprint the ratchet star into the recoil shield, develop excessive barrel/cylinder gap and loosen in the arbor thread over time and use being excelorated by normal loads for a steel frame gun.
I've wondered if a brass frame gun could not be beefed up with a steel bushing, arbor threaded implant to negate this weakness.

I'd have to do some research to see if that might work.

 

[M. De Land]

I'd have to do some research to see if that might work.

I was thinking of sweating and cross pinning a steel bushing into the frame that has a tight thread fit to the arbor giving it a larger and sturdier base from which to anchor it in the frame. The steel bushing implant would also serve as the new recoil shield against which the ratchet star would push. Sweating the bushing in place with silver solder and cross pins should make it very strong in shear support.
I have a beat up brass 51 style clone in 44 cal. with a loose arbor that was gifted to me for parts and will be a perfect candidate for the project if I can get my butt back in gear after the heart deal is recovered from. It will need a new wedge made as well before it will be right.
I'm not sure what model this gun is with the brass frame, rebated cylinder, octagon to round barrel and .44 cal. It was imported by Navy Arms and has a diamond shape manufactures mark with what looks like the letters dtzI inside.

 

[45D]

The steel bushing implant would also serve as the new recoil shield against which the ratchet star would push.
I have a beat up brass 51 style clone in 44 cal. with a loose arbor . . .

Just a heads-up . . . the ratchet doesn't contact the cutout for it, the "recoil ring" is the limiter for the cyl movement to the rear. It's the web between the nipple openings that dig into the recoil ring and causes the slop.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Just a heads-up . . . the ratchet doesn't contact the cutout for it, the "recoil ring" is the limiter for the cyl movement to the rear. It's the web between the nipple openings that dig into the recoil ring and causes the slop.

Mike

Correct. Some pictures I posted last year showing the imprints in the recoil shield. I was referring to the area of the ratchet so folks would know what I was describing.
My thought was to turn and thread (for the arbor) a steel bushing the same shape as the recoil shield and ratchet well about .075 thick (recoil shield , arbor thread is longer) that could be sweated and pinned into the counter bored frame face as the new purchase for the arbor.
It would also need a hand window and fit up to the chimney profile but might be a possible way to bring these old girls back to life.

 

[Jappo]

Just a heads-up . . . the ratchet doesn't contact the cutout for it, the "recoil ring" is the limiter for the cyl movement to the rear. It's the web between the nipple openings that dig into the recoil ring and causes the slop.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Wow , the cylinder imprinted the recoil shield so far the ratchet was knawing in to the bottom of the well! Great pictures ! Must have had a barrel/cylinder gap approaching .030-.040 judging from the depth of the imprints.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Personally, I use Simichrome paste for polishing most hard metals. There are better polishing agents for softer metals, such as silver and gold.
I use a cotton buff on my Foredom tool, with just a dab of Simichrome on it. Quickly brings a very bright high polish that lasts well.

 

[RMFnLA]

It all depends on the individual I guess. I think the old saying "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" is of importance here. I for one love the mirror polish of the brass on my Remington .31 pocket revolver. I absolutely love that mirror finish that gives off a golden shine! In my view it compliments the darker parts of the firearm.

Is this an original or a replica?

 

[RMFnLA]

It all depends on the individual I guess. I think the old saying "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" is of importance here. I for one love the mirror polish of the brass on my Remington .31 pocket revolver. I absolutely love that mirror finish that gives off a golden shine! In my view it compliments the darker parts of the firearm.

Is this an original or a replica?

 

[Eutycus]

I'm late getting to this thread but put me down for patina.

 

[RATKAS]

Is this an original or a replica?

Hi RMF. Unfortunately it's a Pietta reproduction.

 

[Nor'Easter]

I wonder if the same personalities that prefer shiny like case coloring?
I some times think do folks (we) really like certain aspects of style and finish of our own accord or are taught what we are supposed like to appear cultured , in the know or on the "in crowd" !
I prefer the look of some holster wear but hate fresh scratches, muzzle crown dings and grip dents!
I gravitate to the look of use in a well cared for gun but have no idea of why!
Odd how certain aspects of style and wear characteristics bug or endear us !

Ditto!