woodse guy
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How often do you guy take your lock and trigger apart to clean and oil them. And what kind of oil do you use.
Cleaning the lock and trigger
- Thread starter woodse guy
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brawny man
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I remove and clean the lock from my trade gun with an old tooth brush and water every time I use it. I oil it up with WD-40 and wipe off the excess. I hardly ever remove the trigger.
I also watched someone at a rendezvous shoot take off their percussion lock. It wouldn't fire. The coil main spring was completely rusted and broke in half. :shocked2: The rest of the lock was in bad shape also. I think they learned a lesson that day.
I also watched someone at a rendezvous shoot take off their percussion lock. It wouldn't fire. The coil main spring was completely rusted and broke in half. :shocked2: The rest of the lock was in bad shape also. I think they learned a lesson that day.
Billnpatti
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I remove and clean my lock every time I shoot one of my rifles. I take it out and wash it with hot soapy water using a toothbrush. I then rinse it with hot water, shake it off and then spray it with WD-40. The WD-40 is simply to remove any residual water. It is not a good rust preventive so I follow the WD-40 with a spray of Barricade. Give the lock a good shake and wipe away all excess Barricade and it is ready to replace in the stock. I use a Q-Tip to wipe any fouling off the trigger but I do not remove it from the stock.
skunkskinner
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I take the lock off and clean it with soapy water after every shoot also, never have taken a trigger off for cleaning. I spray with Rem oil when dry.
Lock get's cleaned when it's dirty, I pull it and look at it every time, usually only need to wipe the exterior with a damp cloth followed by drying and a light oiled cloth.
I use Hoppes #9 gun oil.
Trigger get's pulled and cleaned at the beginning of the season and maybe once again after two months into it.
The key is to be aware of what condition it's in. Any oil dry's and get's gummy, then needs to be removed and refreashed. Seasonal weather changes has an affect, dry-n-dusty or humid conditions can be trouble.
I don't think theres a pat answer to how often things need doing, it's about doing it when it needs doing. And ya gotta look to know.
Sometimes an olde lock can be problematic and need a little extra care. Sometimes a mortice can be a little big and more dirt get's in the works,,
More often than not, a guy has trouble with his gun because the lock and trigger are neglected as the new shooter focuses on cleaning the barrel, some guy's are even afraid to pull a lock or trigger and you'll find the hard dry packing grease still on the metal of a gun that been in use for years.
Does everything need to be brokedown and cleaned every time? In my opinion, No. But you do need to be on top of what's going on inside as to the condition of things.
p.s. I never use WD-40 on anything on any gun. It's a water displacement formula not a lube or protectant
I use Hoppes #9 gun oil.
Trigger get's pulled and cleaned at the beginning of the season and maybe once again after two months into it.
The key is to be aware of what condition it's in. Any oil dry's and get's gummy, then needs to be removed and refreashed. Seasonal weather changes has an affect, dry-n-dusty or humid conditions can be trouble.
I don't think theres a pat answer to how often things need doing, it's about doing it when it needs doing. And ya gotta look to know.
Sometimes an olde lock can be problematic and need a little extra care. Sometimes a mortice can be a little big and more dirt get's in the works,,
More often than not, a guy has trouble with his gun because the lock and trigger are neglected as the new shooter focuses on cleaning the barrel, some guy's are even afraid to pull a lock or trigger and you'll find the hard dry packing grease still on the metal of a gun that been in use for years.
Does everything need to be brokedown and cleaned every time? In my opinion, No. But you do need to be on top of what's going on inside as to the condition of things.
p.s. I never use WD-40 on anything on any gun. It's a water displacement formula not a lube or protectant
Wrong. It is a lubricant and was designed as one. Many people use WD-40 for guns. Want to debate? Lets do it off forum.
woodse guy said:
Locks get cleaned with soap and water and scrubbed with an old toothbrush. I lube, usually, with CLP Break-Free a teflon based lube. But, have used WD-40 extensively in the past and sometimes still do. Triggers don't usually need much attention.
As part of my cleaning regimen, the lock gets cleaned thoroughly...IMO, BP fouling 'vapor' is almost invisible and gets on everything, into every crevice, etc. And my approach to cleaning is when I case a Flintlock, I may not use that one again for some time and I want to know I've put it away in 100% showroom ready condition every time.
After cleaning with hot soapy water the entire lock is power flushed with aerosol WD40.
Then I spin out the frizzen pivot screw to remove the frizzen and clean all the those frizzen related moving/rubbing parts, relube with shooter's choice grease out of a syringe, reinstall...takes every bit of 5 minutes.
WD40 is an outstanding product for firearms and have used it on every firearm I've owned for decades...with the advent of the Internet, I've been ordering the aerosol cans by the case for some time now. The last thing that's gone on my Flintlock bores & lock internals is WD40...I case the Flintlocks muzzle down and have never had a problem.
There are many ways to skin a cat and I'm sure others clean and lube their muzzleloaders as they see fit of course...
After cleaning with hot soapy water the entire lock is power flushed with aerosol WD40.
Then I spin out the frizzen pivot screw to remove the frizzen and clean all the those frizzen related moving/rubbing parts, relube with shooter's choice grease out of a syringe, reinstall...takes every bit of 5 minutes.
WD40 is an outstanding product for firearms and have used it on every firearm I've owned for decades...with the advent of the Internet, I've been ordering the aerosol cans by the case for some time now. The last thing that's gone on my Flintlock bores & lock internals is WD40...I case the Flintlocks muzzle down and have never had a problem.
There are many ways to skin a cat and I'm sure others clean and lube their muzzleloaders as they see fit of course...
paulvallandigham
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The ONLY downside to WD40 is that it congeals when left to dry long enough. The UPSIDE is that WD40 acts as its own "SOLVENT" and will dissolve the congealed grease in pretty short order, if it occurs.
I had a revolver that I lubed with spray WD40 and it gummed up the firing pin on the hammer, so that it was slow to move when the firing pin entered the frame.
My gunsmith fixed the problem rather quickly, altho he used a stronger solvent, and asked me not to use WD40 on that revolver again. He wasn't anti-WD40, as he had it in his shop, too, BTW.
I had a revolver that I lubed with spray WD40 and it gummed up the firing pin on the hammer, so that it was slow to move when the firing pin entered the frame.
My gunsmith fixed the problem rather quickly, altho he used a stronger solvent, and asked me not to use WD40 on that revolver again. He wasn't anti-WD40, as he had it in his shop, too, BTW.
I'm not anti WD-40 either,
I've just never needed to use it on a gun. There are several different ways to lubricate gun mechinisms, I use Gun Oil.
If it's stuck and not supposed to be: use WD-40
If it's not stuck and it's supposed to be: Duct Tape
I've just never needed to use it on a gun. There are several different ways to lubricate gun mechinisms, I use Gun Oil.
If it's stuck and not supposed to be: use WD-40
If it's not stuck and it's supposed to be: Duct Tape
Rifleman1776 said:
It was originally developed as a Water Displacement formula for the aerospace industry- that's what the WD stands for - if you want to debate go ahead, but the facts are what counts and here's the company's website... http://www.wd40.com/about-us/history/
While it's true the first end users used it as a lubricant does not change the fact that it was originally developed for water displacment by the maker...
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hanshi
Cannon
The lock comes off with each cleaning. I've never removed a trigger but I do use a Q tip on it through the mortise. Water and a toothbrush clean the inner workings with the help of more Q tips. I then dry it, spray with WD40, wipe off the WD40 and oil lightly with whatever oil that blows my skirt up (powder blue tutu, actually). :grin:
ApprenticeBuilder
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The lock and barrel come out every time, and a tooth brush is used to clean the lock then liberal amounts of WD-40 is used and then wiped off and re-assembled.
Every third time the lock is completly dis-assembled and cleand and inspected for issues and new automotive assembly lube is used to lubricate all bearing surfaces. So far the assembly lube is the best lubricant I have found.
Very rare that the triggers need attention.
Every third time the lock is completly dis-assembled and cleand and inspected for issues and new automotive assembly lube is used to lubricate all bearing surfaces. So far the assembly lube is the best lubricant I have found.
Very rare that the triggers need attention.
This has been a very interesting thread to read. I was thinking about it just today as I had my antique sawn off out shooting. I've not had the locks off or the gun dismantled in about six outings. Thinking about this all today, I looked over the gun and noticed again how tightly the locks fit their mortises, complete with the inside beveled edge of the lock plates and the close inletting. The bores are sitting in the living room a quarter full of my cleaning fluid, a mixture of alcohol and Murphy's soap. I'll have the locks off tomorrow and have a look, but I'll be surprised if there's any fouling in there. Also, with pinned-barrel guns, can't really see how guys would dismount their barrels each time, or ever. I know when my fowler gets here, the barrel is staying in until the Second Coming.
USNAVYABH37
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I take it out every time clean it with soapy water
and tooth brush.
let it dry then put the WD-40 to it
reinstall
and tooth brush.
let it dry then put the WD-40 to it
reinstall
ApprenticeBuilder
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As far as removing the lock each time, I shoot a flint and with the fowling created there are just to many nooks and cranies to rely on a wipe down to effectivly clean the lock.
As far as pulling the barrel is concerned, firstly I have no interest in re-ignighting that debate, but I have had several rifles come to me needing "minor" work that are not dis-assembled during cleaning and I always find bright orange rust on the insides of the lock, under the tang, etc.
Its too easy to allow a dribble of water to enter where it don't belong, if left to its own devices the dredded rust digs in.
Just my observation.
As far as pulling the barrel is concerned, firstly I have no interest in re-ignighting that debate, but I have had several rifles come to me needing "minor" work that are not dis-assembled during cleaning and I always find bright orange rust on the insides of the lock, under the tang, etc.
Its too easy to allow a dribble of water to enter where it don't belong, if left to its own devices the dredded rust digs in.
Just my observation.
Yes, the 'pulling the barrel' issue is another one of those stupid debates where those who believe you should not pull a pinned barrel try to argue their opinion over those who do believe in pulling their barrels...and if they're not arguing about barrels its something else.
I did my homework on pulling pinned barrels before I ever tried it, learned and documented the steps and tips from knowledgeable people here and on other forums on how to pull pinned barrels, the cautions to take, etc. Since then I've pulled the pinned barrels for cleaning on multiple long rifles involving Early Virginias, a Dickert, and a Late Lancaster several times, no problems at all.
Ironic to the timing of this discussion though...is a realization I came to this year. Since all my barrels have been upgraded with Patent Breeches, their powder chamber and vent channel intersect in an "L" shape leaving no area below the horizontal for fouling to build up.
This eliminates any need for me to pull the barrel and soak the breech end in a bucket of water, to then pump flush it.
So to trim time off the whole cleaning process I've started experimenting just laying the rifle on its side across my carpeted work area, with the vent up.
I remove the lock & liner, swab the bore normally with wet soapy cleaning patches from the muzzle like usual, then wrap a wet cleaning patch around a .32cal brush and looking in through the vent channel can see the cleaning patch come all the way down through the P/B powder chamber and bottom out in the vent channel each time.
Then I get the vent channel with a couple Q-tips, and dry & lube the same way.
So far, so good...takes a lot less time and I have no worries about water getting anywhere it shouldn't. I'll still pull the barrels periodically as I like to check under them routinely, keep them coated with lithium grease, etc. So, as a side benefit of patent breeches, I believe I've discovered a very simple yet thorough way to clean my particular Flintlock barrels.
But bottom line, if you learn how to do it, get the right size straight punch to push the pins out, use caution not to booger up the stock, pinned barrels can be routinely removed with no problem at all.
NOTE: I have no personal interest in whether or not anyone else ever pulls a pinned barrel, just clarifying for the record that it’s not rocket science.
:wink:
I did my homework on pulling pinned barrels before I ever tried it, learned and documented the steps and tips from knowledgeable people here and on other forums on how to pull pinned barrels, the cautions to take, etc. Since then I've pulled the pinned barrels for cleaning on multiple long rifles involving Early Virginias, a Dickert, and a Late Lancaster several times, no problems at all.
Ironic to the timing of this discussion though...is a realization I came to this year. Since all my barrels have been upgraded with Patent Breeches, their powder chamber and vent channel intersect in an "L" shape leaving no area below the horizontal for fouling to build up.
This eliminates any need for me to pull the barrel and soak the breech end in a bucket of water, to then pump flush it.
So to trim time off the whole cleaning process I've started experimenting just laying the rifle on its side across my carpeted work area, with the vent up.
I remove the lock & liner, swab the bore normally with wet soapy cleaning patches from the muzzle like usual, then wrap a wet cleaning patch around a .32cal brush and looking in through the vent channel can see the cleaning patch come all the way down through the P/B powder chamber and bottom out in the vent channel each time.
Then I get the vent channel with a couple Q-tips, and dry & lube the same way.
So far, so good...takes a lot less time and I have no worries about water getting anywhere it shouldn't. I'll still pull the barrels periodically as I like to check under them routinely, keep them coated with lithium grease, etc. So, as a side benefit of patent breeches, I believe I've discovered a very simple yet thorough way to clean my particular Flintlock barrels.
But bottom line, if you learn how to do it, get the right size straight punch to push the pins out, use caution not to booger up the stock, pinned barrels can be routinely removed with no problem at all.
NOTE: I have no personal interest in whether or not anyone else ever pulls a pinned barrel, just clarifying for the record that it’s not rocket science.
:wink:
I take mine off and clean it with hot water and toothbrush when doing the barrel, then dry and spray lightly with RemOil.
I was at a shoot one time and one of the guys asked me to look at his flintlock because the hammer wouldn't cock. I popped the lock out and the whole mortised area behind it was packed full of priming powder due to his pan not fitting tightly to the barrel. Good thing it wasn't ignited by a pan flash!!!
I chewed him out for not cleaning his gun properly and always stand well behind him when he is shooting that thing.
I was at a shoot one time and one of the guys asked me to look at his flintlock because the hammer wouldn't cock. I popped the lock out and the whole mortised area behind it was packed full of priming powder due to his pan not fitting tightly to the barrel. Good thing it wasn't ignited by a pan flash!!!
I chewed him out for not cleaning his gun properly and always stand well behind him when he is shooting that thing.
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