• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Cleaning

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Or quick and simple, my method. Install an action cover, pack internals with synthetic grease. A casual shooter can go years without doing a complete tear down since no fowling or fragments will go into the frame. Go shoot and enjoy.
After shooting then get home, remove cylinder and barrel (Colt clone) cylinder (Remington), remove nipples. Clean barrel , cylinder and nipples with Moose Milk and flush with hot water, wipe frame with MM then dry and lube with Ballistol …done in 30 minutes. No surface rust, no complicated procedures, fast and simple.
 
Some of the black schmutz is graphite used to glaze the black powder--that is if you are using black powder....
this conversation has motivated me to order a set of Slixshot nipples and get the 1851 convertible back from unmentionable to an honest .36 cap gun.
Get it dirty with real DuPont Gunpowder then to clean swab the barrel and chambers in a container of water or moose milk with a cotton mop. Oil lightly and put away.
Hold Center
Bunk.
 
I think I got it! After range yesterday, i took the steel dog food bowl and filled with some dawn, hot HOT water as soon as i woke and soaked barrels, cylinders, and frame (upside down so grips remainder above water.
Then went about my morning coffee and personal business for an hour.
Toothbrush scrub and a couple barrel swabs.
Cold water rinse, hair dryer dry parts. One pass thru everything with Muzzle Magic, another with Hoppes black powder bore cleaner, reassembled all, then coat with CLP. Half hour total. When Muzzle Magic gone i will eliminate that or Hoppes, don’t need both.
So thanks to suggestions, my cleaning time is getting reduced
 
this conversation has motivated me to order a set of Slixshot nipples and get the 1851 convertible back from unmentionable to an honest .36 cap gun.
Get it dirty with real DuPont Gunpowder then to clean swab the barrel and chambers in a container of water or moose milk with a cotton mop. Oil lightly and put away.
Hold Center
Bunk.
Good for you, while the SS improves cap jams a lot, they don’t completely eliminate it. Fyi.
 
Good for you, while the SS improves cap jams a lot, they don’t completely eliminate it. Fyi.
you are correct, but i did not bother with a cap rake because mostly it is in the unmentionable .38 Colt configuration but is fun to shoot as a cap gun.
In the gun rack is an 1860 Army with a cap rake done by Goon's Guns years ago that is so reliable it is boring to shoot. It just works period.
.
Makin' smoke
Bunk
 
I picked this thread because it is a recent one in the list of cleaning threads.

I was worried about rust using water. So I have used extensively Hoppes BP cleaner and also Muzzle Magic. I stubbornly avoided water. The cleaners seem to work ok but I am back now to using just room temp water. The big difference? BP cleaners take at least twice as many times down the barrel to get the fouling out. Gets expensive. Plus I’m not confident it’s all out. By the 2nd flush with water the fouling is mostly gone.
3rd or 4th flush is water clean enough to drink.

Water gets rid of BP.
Alcohol gets rid of water.
Dry patch and lube of your preference. I use Ballistol.

= no rust.

Ps…check next day after every cleaning. Dry patch, have a look, re-lube and put it away. You’ll sleep easy. :)
 
Back
Top