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- Nov 16, 2009
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I wish you’d let them run a bit before you set the hook. The surprise always seems to induce a stronger fight response!For those that voted for Joe, the above is fictiuous so just DONT.
I wish you’d let them run a bit before you set the hook. The surprise always seems to induce a stronger fight response!For those that voted for Joe, the above is fictiuous so just DONT.
Or quick and simple, my method. Install an action cover, pack internals with synthetic grease. A casual shooter can go years without doing a complete tear down since no fowling or fragments will go into the frame. Go shoot and enjoy.
After shooting then get home, remove cylinder and barrel (Colt clone) cylinder (Remington), remove nipples. Clean barrel , cylinder and nipples with Moose Milk and flush with hot water, wipe frame with MM then dry and lube with Ballistol …done in 30 minutes. No surface rust, no complicated procedures, fast and simple.
this conversation has motivated me to order a set of Slixshot nipples and get the 1851 convertible back from unmentionable to an honest .36 cap gun.Some of the black schmutz is graphite used to glaze the black powder--that is if you are using black powder....
If you want more laughs on the water issue check out this link about dihydrogen monoxide...LMAO dehydrated water
Good for you, while the SS improves cap jams a lot, they don’t completely eliminate it. Fyi.this conversation has motivated me to order a set of Slixshot nipples and get the 1851 convertible back from unmentionable to an honest .36 cap gun.
Get it dirty with real DuPont Gunpowder then to clean swab the barrel and chambers in a container of water or moose milk with a cotton mop. Oil lightly and put away.
Hold Center
Bunk.
you are correct, but i did not bother with a cap rake because mostly it is in the unmentionable .38 Colt configuration but is fun to shoot as a cap gun.Good for you, while the SS improves cap jams a lot, they don’t completely eliminate it. Fyi.
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