Cold browning Lyman .54 GPR Barrel

[maniac424]

Thanks Zonie for confirming my thoughts on the steel wool. Since the LMF product is both a Barrel Brown & Degreaser, would any wax on the steel wool really matter?

 

[Zonie]

Your mileage may vary.

 

[Goldhunter]

Thanks Zonie for confirming my thoughts on the steel wool. Since the LMF product is both a Barrel Brown & Degreaser, would any wax on the steel wool really matter?

Save yourself heartache and clean it before the LMF. Clean it good then the LMF brown/degreaser can take care of any minor finger oils.

 

[Lock Nut]

Anyone have a problem with getting a copper coating form while browning? What's a good way of removing it? Or does one need to sand it off and start all over?

 

[Zonie]

Sand it off using some black "wet/dry" sandpaper.

If Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is applied to metal that is not hot enough the copper in it will plate itself to the steel.

Once the copper plating exists the metal will refuse to take any further browning.

Next time, try to get the metal temperature up to 285 degrees F. but don't heat it beyond 300 degrees F.

I know this is hard to judge but the solution should make an instant "hiss" when it is applied but it will stay somewhat fluid for a little while.

If it doesn't, the metal is too cool.

If it makes a "HISS" and seems to instantly harden into crusts the metal is too hot.
As the metal cools you can apply more solution over the crusts and it will continue to brown the steel.

 

[Bill Hall]

Anyone have a problem with getting a copper coating form while browning? What's a good way of removing it? Or does one need to sand it off and start all over?

If you're talking about LMF cold brown, yes I have had trouble with the copper coating. I've only browned one rifle with it so far, as I usually use Tru-Brown or Wahkon bay. If you wipe the LMF solution on and twist your fingers wrong, or push too hard, or sneeze, or think lewd thoughts, you get that dang copper color. I had to keep sanding it off with 320 grit until I finally got past the first coat. After that, it does a great job, just too frustrating and too much wasted time trying to get the first coat to work, especially when other brands don't do that.

I know most folks here swear by LMF browning solution, but as soon as I use up this batch, I'll never buy it again (thumbs down). Bill

P.S. I just sanded the coppery looking areas, and left the good areas alone.

 

[ScottGustaveson]

Remove the sights, draw file it and then use progressively finer emery cloth until you get the finish you want.

As far as the LMF goes, I had great luck. I just kept applying it until It reached my desired finish. I couldn't be happier.

 

[maniac424]

bamaboy I have the same problem with my fixed site, it's a bit on the small side. How long did it take for Lyman to send you the right size site?

 

[Lock Nut]

Actually, I was using Davis metal brown and the coppering happened on the 5th application. I've done a few before using that stuff and always had excellent results. I was able to save it by steel wooling it off and continuing the process. (I always just card with denim and never used steel wool before)The finish came out very smooth and dark. Not exactly what I was after, but it still turned out good. Not sure why that happened. A differance in temperature or humidity maybe?

 

[Bill Hall]

Ok, I just finished all the parts on my latest Hawken using the LMF solution I had left. Came out fine, and I learned a trick to applying the solution. Just apply it very lightly, especially on the first coat, and you get very little coppering. When you get a little copper tint, scrub it off while it's still wet with the folded corner of some 320 grit paper, then dab a little back on. I was slathering it on, like I do with some other brands, and in doing that the copper would nearly always start.

I still like tru-brown better though. Just simpler to use. Bill