• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Complete Kibler Colonial Smoothrifle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
hey whilst I have your attention....when you put your kit together, did you remove any wood around the wrist area ( or breech plug tang area) and cheek piece area? According to Mr. Kibler, he left some extra wood there in case the builder wanted to do some carving....I'm just curious.
 
hey whilst I have your attention....when you put your kit together, did you remove any wood around the wrist area ( or breech plug tang area) and cheek piece area? According to Mr. Kibler, he left some extra wood there in case the builder wanted to do some carving....I'm just curious.


Yes, there is a fair amount to be removed. Go back over the completed images and you'll find a few were I described the process. Personally I don't see were people think this kit is easier than the SMR he offers. There is a decent amount of fitting and metal work that needs to be done from fitting the nose cap, entry thimble, shaping the stock just no name a few processes... I recieved his SMR a few days ago and I am amazed at the overall finished appearance of the stock vesus that of what the colonial was. IMO the SMR is the easier of the two, but requires more fine finesse due to the slender stock and lollipop tang.

Having experience with both kits, they are just phenomenal. Seasoned builders to beginners they will appeal to both groups. While they are indeed the easiest of the high end rifles to build, they are extremely relaxing to build, fun and in my case have helped spark the intrest of some who have been put off by cheaper production kits and the harder parts kits as a first go, which is what it's all about! Getting people started with a quality rifle!
 
I am new to Flintlocks and sorry if this is a dumb question, is this gun a smooth bore or rifled. I was looking for one I could use shot in also. By the way amazing work you have done on this gun!!
 
Dawg, you did a spectacular job on this one. And I am just as impressed with the photos you took, as the length of these flint-era firearms makes them a real challenge to document. The only subject tougher to photograph that I can think of is a longbow.
Or a charging grizzly..lol
 
I am new to Flintlocks and sorry if this is a dumb question, is this gun a smooth bore or rifled. I was looking for one I could use shot in also. By the way amazing work you have done on this gun!!

Barrel is a 43.25" Swamped Rice custom profile .54 caliber smoothbore. Shot and ball are equally at home with this smoothrifle.
 
Hello everyone. Thanks for the kind words regarding our kit. You did a fine job of assembly, Crawdad. Just a couple notes... Assembly and finishing time will vary greatly depending on skill and expereince. I can assemble one ready to shoot in around four hours. This doesn't include wood and metal prep for finish and of course finish on both. When I have taught classes on assembly, students generally don't have any problem fully completing and finishing a kit in 5 days. I would encourge everyone interested to check out our youtube videos showing in real time the assembly process and what is involved.

As far as wood for carving, little to no extra wood is left. This is because very little extra wood is required or desired when carving a longrifle. No extra wood is provided in the wrist or lock region. This is what you want even when carving. A very small amount is left behind the cheek, above the buttplate. The wood raises from the buttplate to the cheek, so this provides most of the stock for carving. Hope this makes at least a little sense!

If anyone has any questions, just ask. We're happy to help!

All the best,
Jim Kibler
 
The man himself! Thank you for chiming in on this post, your comments are most welcome! I'm glad you highlighted aspects of wood removal, that always seems like a difficult area to describe and comprehend.

In short, you have created a phenomenal kit rifle and certainly nothing but a home run!
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone. Thanks for the kind words regarding our kit. You did a fine job of assembly, Crawdad. Just a couple notes... Assembly and finishing time will vary greatly depending on skill and expereince. I can assemble one ready to shoot in around four hours. This doesn't include wood and metal prep for finish and of course finish on both. When I have taught classes on assembly, students generally don't have any problem fully completing and finishing a kit in 5 days. I would encourge everyone interested to check out our youtube videos showing in real time the assembly process and what is involved.

If anyone has any questions, just ask. We're happy to help!

All the best,
Jim Kibler

Thanks for the information Jim. I am glad to hear that 122 hours is not the norm for these rifles as I purchased a Chambers - Edward Marshall and I know that there is a quite a bit more work involved in those. I am enjoying your youtube videos so much that my next will likely be a Kibler SMR in 36 cal for my future... Great videos, very helpful!
 
Thanks for the information Jim. I am glad to hear that 122 hours is not the norm for these rifles as I purchased a Chambers - Edward Marshall and I know that there is a quite a bit more work involved in those. I am enjoying your youtube videos so much that my next will likely be a Kibler SMR in 36 cal for my future... Great videos, very helpful!


The hours is all based on you... I'm VERY meticulous, think my images show that. Go as fast or as slow as you want, experience widely varies from person to person and this situation applies with building any rifle. I have no reason to rush nor am I as experienced as Mr. Kibler. Most people are not, therefore it's all dependent on your ability and how much time you want to sweat on the little things. I enjoy the little details and small aspects of building, therefore I spend more time doing things than others might. I also mentioned in my thread build times obviously would vary, faster or slower. Again, don't forget it's all based upon the builder. ;)
 
Beautiful rifle. Some of your comments on fitting seem to indicate that even a Kibler kit is not for the novice as skill is needed for inlays and shaping. I love the color you put on the lock and barrel. All other details equally get a thumbs up.
 
Beautiful rifle. Some of your comments on fitting seem to indicate that even a Kibler kit is not for the novice as skill is needed for inlays and shaping. I love the color you put on the lock and barrel. All other details equally get a thumbs up.

Thank you kindly, I would certainly say they are a good fit for a first timer, if one does their part... Such a nice kit can be botched if one isn't careful though. My advice is proper research and patience and from there it should be all uphill. I spent a little more time in areas than other new builders might, but in all out of the crate they are almost or darn near perfect. The cast mountings are some of the best I've seen, yet still being a casting there indeed were tweaks that needed ironed out on some inlets and mountings which is expected.

Without a doubt though this one was a pure joy to assemble.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top