Cutting stock blanks out of a plank

[ZUG]

Sure appreciate you telling me . is there any way of making them lighter to work ? This log ? This is all so new and so confusing for me ...

I called Bosh Tools and asked them if their heavy-duty jig saw can cut 3" thick maple and they told me yes it could WITH the RIGHT blade so I would look into that to reduce the plank into more manageable size stock wood. Otherwise get your friends or family members to give you a hand but that will also be awkward to maneuver on a small (14") bandsaw. Have you seen the size of Jim Kiblers bandsaw he cuts planks with?

 

[ZUG]

I went through my cutting stock blanks phase, big logs but lots of inclusions that kept showing up in the blanks, lots of work for a marginal return.

I slabbed up a big cherry log and cut the stock blanks green, all the nay sayers here told me it was impossible to cut green cherry stock blanks without having terrible checks and warpage. Not so fast! I have been cutting up logs for bow wood for the last 28 years and learned a thing or two.

For cherry and walnut stock blanks I let the surface dry for a couple of days and then give the whole blank a coat of shellac with a few extra coats on the ends. The shellac doesn't stop the drying process, it only slows down the rapid surface drying that causes checks.

I cut four marginal cherry stock blanks and one crotch wood walnut stock blank, all were shellacked and stood up in the corner of my shop. A year later I didn't have any warpage or the first drying checks in the wood. They are now 4 years out from being cut and still don't have any checks or warpage, they have a few knots and inclusions so I haven't used them for any projects so far.

On good blank and one full of wind shakes on one side that would be gone on a finished gun because the blanks are 3" thick. These blanks have been shellacked.

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The blanks have too much of this stuff hidden below the surface.

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I did all my initial cutting with a chainsaw and finished the blanks up on my bandsaw.

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Eric - that's a LOT of work but you did learn a lot and I bet you will be buying your wood from someone in the business from now on. Years ago my father and I cut up an old walnut tree from a neighbor's yard and it was a LOT of work. We cut up only about 12 feet of it from the ground up. Then we cut it up into 2-1/2 feet to 4 foot sections as my dad wanted it for shotgun and rifle stocks. It took us 5 days of HARD and HEAVY work to cut it and another day to transport it to our house. That was the last time I tried to be a lumber jack!

 

[Rob M.]

I called Bosh Tools and asked them if their heavy-duty jig saw can cut 3" thick maple and they told me yes it could WITH the RIGHT blade so I would look into that to reduce the plank into more manageable size stock wood. Otherwise get your friends or family members to give you a hand but that will also be awkward to maneuver on a small (14") bandsaw. Have you seen the size of Jim Kiblers bandsaw he cuts planks with?

How much is their jig saw ? Is it battery powered? Would it be good for all types of wood ? How doni get a hold of this Jim Kibler guy ? Thank you very much !!

 

[ZUG]

Look on the internet for Bosh Tools - find their jig saws then call Bosh Tools and ASK them for their recommendations. As for Jim Kibler look for his web site on the internet <Kibler's Longrifles> - I am VERY surprised that you NEVER heard of him or his company ???

 

[Snooterpup]

Which begs the question, “Which color should the ends be painted”?

Cherry, of course.

 

[sportster73hp]

I had three live edge ash slabs with no one to buy them. Now i have six roughed out blanks. 7 1/2 inch skill saw doesn’t cut deep enough. Saws all and hand saw waay too slow. Sometimes a chainsaw IS just he right tool.

 

[64Springer]

A Bosch jigsaw will do anything you ask of it and then some.

 

[Rob M.]

Look on the internet for Bosh Tools - find their jig saws then call Bosh Tools and ASK them for their recommendations. As for Jim Kibler look for his web site on the internet <Kibler's Longrifles> - I am VERY surprised that you NEVER heard of him or his company ???

Well , I couldnt find Mr. Bosh's number but Mr. Yoder down the road had this awesome saw so I got it instead. Its dandy and ....using a battery powered saw just seems a bit, uhmm , weird to me anyway while making a colonial era gun .... be kinda like making an 18 th century gun or rifle on a CNC machine or something like that .... Thanks !

 

[ZUG]

Well , I couldnt find Mr. Bosh's number but Mr. Yoder down the road had this awesome saw so I got it instead. Its dandy and ....using a battery powered saw just seems a bit, uhmm , weird to me anyway while making a colonial era gun .... be kinda like making an 18 th century gun or rifle on a CNC machine or something like that .... Thanks !

Your a "FUNNY GUY" for sure. Use what you got - maybe find a beaver and ask him to help you. You might also sell that car you have and buy a bicycle --

 

[Felix the Cat]

I am lucky to have the use of a large bandsaw in my local engineering club.. makes blank cutting fairly straightforward...

I was always taught that the grain should run straight through the wrist and parallel to the bottom edge of the buttstock. If you have the grain parallel to the barrel, there is a risk you will shear it at the rear of the breech and/or split off the toe of the stock when it is banged on the deck...!

I have to say that all of the toe repairs I have had to do on guns have been on guns with the grain parallel to the top edge of the butt. The other big culprit for breaking half stocks is when someone tries to unhook the barrel without removing the ramrod! I have done three of these to date!

It got better....

 

[Fatboyz]

Rob I think we need to send you a “Sarcasm”:sign!

 

[Rob M.]

Rob I think we need to send you a “Sarcasm”:sign!

I would love that !!! ( no sarcasm there ).