CVA Kentucky

[HunterSvejkovsky]

I recently picked up a Cva Kentucky 45 cal for cheap as my first muzzleloader. It shoots okay, damn near dead on accuracy wise, I’ve put a new nipple from TOW on it, pulled the stripped out screw from the cleaning port on the side of the Barrel and replaced it so I can get in there and clean, but I’m still having an issue where 1, the nipple seems to get clogged after every shot, and after 2 or 3 I have to prime the area under the nipple even if I smack it it get powder in. Sometimes it’ll take 2 or even 3 caps to fire if I have to that and Hagfires pretty good. If the first cap goes off no issues. Could it be a powder issue? Using 75g pyrodex p powder(can’t get real black powder in town and can’t afford to buy online) and using CCI magnum #11primers

 

[Grenadier1758]

How far does the "cleanout" screw protrude into the drum? It could be partially blocking the flash hole of the nipple. Pyrodex is notorious for being difficult to ignite and the long flash channel in the CVA Kentucky rifles can be prone to hang fires. Are there any shavings left from the replacement and likely rethreading of that "clean out" screw? Really clean out the flash channel from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. Make sure that the nipple seat is not blocked. Get a nipple designed for getting more heat to the powder chamber to help the magnum caps.

It's not a clean out screw. It's an artifact from the manufacturing process that drills the flash hole in the drum. You shouldn't need to ever remove it again.

 

[rafterob]

Pyrodex is your problem, but the magnum caps should take care of that. Good advice from Grenadier, do what he says. The replacement cleanout screw might be interfering with the flash channel from the nipple. Even if there is just a small intrusion of that screw into the nipple area, a thin blockage of fouling can occur fast. You might want to seek out a club nearby or other shooters in your area where you could get together and afford an online order of real black powder. Once you go black, you'll never go back!

 

[HunterSvejkovsky]

How far does the "cleanout" screw protrude into the drum? It could be partially blocking the flash hole of the nipple. Pyrodex is notorious for being difficult to ignite and the long flash channel in the CVA Kentucky rifles can be prone to hang fires. Are there any shavings left from the replacement and likely rethreading of that "clean out" screw? Really clean out the flash channel from the nipple seat to the powder chamber. Make sure that the nipple seat is not blocked. Get a nipple designed for getting more heat to the powder chamber to help the magnum caps.

It's not a clean out screw. It's an artifact from the manufacturing process that drills the flash hole in the drum. You shouldn't need to ever remove it again.

I’ve only heard it called a clean out screw but I blew compressed air through the barrel from it and it’s about a thread shorter than the old screw was so it’s not blocking the flash channel. The nipple I have is advertised as a hotter nipple or something like that I’d have to look at the site to see.

 

[HunterSvejkovsky]

Pyrodex is your problem, but the magnum caps should take care of that. Good advice from Grenadier, do what he says. The replacement cleanout screw might be interfering with the flash channel from the nipple. Even if there is just a small intrusion of that screw into the nipple area, a thin blockage of fouling can occur fast. You might want to seek out a club nearby or other shooters in your area where you could get together and afford an online order of real black powder. Once you go black, you'll never go back!

I made the replacement screw at work so i tried to make it the same length as the original but I’ll shorted it a little to see what happens. I’m gunna talk with a guy in our local group soon and see what they do

 

[CuNosecap]

Your locals will all tell you to ditch the Pyrodex.

 

[rafterob]

Another issue with blockage can occur if the threaded nipple shaft is long. It kinda bottoms out in the flash channel and fowling can build up there real quick.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I recently picked up a Cva Kentucky 45 cal for cheap as my first muzzleloader. It shoots okay, damn near dead on accuracy wise, I’ve put a new nipple from TOW on it, pulled the stripped out screw from the cleaning port on the side of the Barrel and replaced it so I can get in there and clean, but I’m still having an issue where 1, the nipple seems to get clogged after every shot, and after 2 or 3 I have to prime the area under the nipple even if I smack it it get powder in. Sometimes it’ll take 2 or even 3 caps to fire if I have to that and Hagfires pretty good. If the first cap goes off no issues. Could it be a powder issue? Using 75g pyrodex p powder(can’t get real black powder in town and can’t afford to buy online) and using CCI magnum #11primers

nobody else has mentioned it, but I do use pyrodex or 777 in my percussions because of availability and I take my nipplesnand drill them out to a .031. The new nipples I order seem to have a .026 hole and it won't work very good for fake powders but it does work good for black. The big difference is you can't stand much wear in hole size and you'll start to get hammer reset and you might anyway with that much powder. As long as you don't get hammer reset I think you're OK. I can only say it works for me, I use wire bits and I have to heat the nipple to soften it and then I have to reheat it after I drill it and quench it to make it hard. Doesn't take all that amount of time after all I am retired.
squint

 

[n.h.schmidt]

You could just use spitfire nipples and you already get the bigger holes. They work really well for Pyrodex and 777. Last a long time too for me anyway. I never get a hammer blowback. I shoot all CVA rifles in matches ,26 or more shots with no failures to fire and I don't have to clean between shots. I also use my own percussion caps.

 

[gunpa]

I've burned many pounds of regular Pyrodex. With hot caps it never fails to go off first time every time. Pyrodex P is even easier to light and you can't mention Triple 7 in the same breath because it really is harder to light. It's got to be an obstruction in the fire channel because it's not the powder!

 

[SDSmlf]

I recently picked up a Cva Kentucky 45 cal for cheap as my first muzzleloader. It shoots okay, damn near dead on accuracy wise, I’ve put a new nipple from TOW on it, pulled the stripped out screw from the cleaning port on the side of the Barrel and replaced it so I can get in there and clean, but I’m still having an issue where 1, the nipple seems to get clogged after every shot, and after 2 or 3 I have to prime the area under the nipple even if I smack it it get powder in. Sometimes it’ll take 2 or even 3 caps to fire if I have to that and Hagfires pretty good. If the first cap goes off no issues. Could it be a powder issue? Using 75g pyrodex p powder(can’t get real black powder in town and can’t afford to buy online) and using CCI magnum #11primers

A couple of things to consider. If you can get musket caps and a musket cap nipple, might solve your problem.

Another thing to consider is oil residue in the fire channel. Heat and oil produce tar. May not get you on the first shot, but it’s going to get you if it’s there.

Doubt your nipple and powder are the real problem. Too many folks using Pyrodex and T7 successfully. You could try popping a couple of caps before loading to clear things. Run a clean patch on a jag down the bore before you pop the caps. You should see the tell tale evidence on the patch that heat and flame are getting to the patch. If not, your fire channel is clogged, back to the oil residue.

Unfortunate you can’t get real blackpowder, as it will solve a lot of ignition problems.

 

[ETipp]

If it were mine I would remove the nipple and using a syringe, put some lacquer thinner down inside the flash channel. Prop the ML up to where the lacquer thinner will remain in there for a while, even overnight if need be. Then follow up with compressed air and a cleaning patch. If there’s any tar substance in there, that will most certainly clean it out.

In fact, I use lacquer thinner and compressed air every time before loading if the ML has been sitting for a while and lubed well with Ballistol, then snap a cap prior to loading. Never any ignition issues.

Works for me.