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cylinder base pin lube

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I thought petroleum-based lubricants in a BP firearm was discouraged. How about something like bore butter?
 
I just use an oil like 3 in 1 and wipe the cylinder pin each time I change the cylinder. Of course, I have two cylinders and I rotate them so with every change, I wipe the cylinder pin and apply another drop or two of oil before putting the next cylinder in. I never have a problem with fouling on my cylinder pin and it rotates freely. If you have only one cylinder and you load with it in the revolver, you will need to remove the cylinder after every two or three loadings. It just depends on how much fouling you get on your cylinder pin as to how often you need to wipe and oil it. Don't forget to run a pipe cleaner through the cylinder pin hole in the cylinder to get out the crud from there, too.
 
I use alvania water pump grease on the cylinder pins, I used to grease the mouths of the chambers with this as well, but have now after 40 odd years swapped to greased felt wads over powder. These also seem to stop fouling from jamming the cylinder pins as well.

Cheers

Heelerau
 
Many Klatch said:
White lithium grease. One application is good for 5 or 6 cylinder full
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This!!!
I prefer Lubriplate AA650 or AAA650 but any white lithium grease will do.
 
Has anyone tried shooting with something called Super Lube? It is synthetic with PTFE. I have some sitting around my house and I thought I might try it in place of Bore Butter.
 
James Bond said:
I thought petroleum-based lubricants in a BP firearm was discouraged. How about something like bore butter?

Petro-based lubes aren't the best choice for ball lube or in applications where they contact burning powder, since they tend to attract powder residue and generate fouling quicker. In applications outside the cylinder/bore, about any lube is fair game. The little bit of grease that will slop out of the end of the arbor pin/cylinder may attract crud, but most fouling builds up as a result of excess ball lube used over a seated ball filling up the end of the chamber. Try squeezing out the excess lube from store-bought felt wads before using them and you'll be amazed at how long you can go before you've got a fouling problem.
 
Billnpatti said:
I just use an oil like 3 in 1 and wipe the cylinder pin each time I change the cylinder. Of course, I have two cylinders and I rotate them so with every change, I wipe the cylinder pin and apply another drop or two of oil before putting the next cylinder in. I never have a problem with fouling on my cylinder pin and it rotates freely. If you have only one cylinder and you load with it in the revolver, you will need to remove the cylinder after every two or three loadings. It just depends on how much fouling you get on your cylinder pin as to how often you need to wipe and oil it. Don't forget to run a pipe cleaner through the cylinder pin hole in the cylinder to get out the crud from there, too.

Well if you wipe the pin after every cylinder ofcorse you dont have a problem.

I found thats the only way to do it anyway. When i first started everyone told me dont use petrolium based lubes so i tried other things nothing worked even just shooting it dry i dont notice any difference.

The only solution is to clean it after every cylinder. Same goes with accuracy. You want the best shots the most accurate you have to swab the barrel AND the chambers.

Ive tried bore butter, Tompson super lube anti-seize, balastol, G96, WD40 nothing works besides just wiping it out after every 6 shots.
 
whiskey said:
What is a good grease or lube to put on cylinder base pins.

I've used Shakespear spinning reel grease for the last thirty-something years. I lucked in to a 10 pound tub in the fishing tackle fire sale, and I'm still using it. I also use it on my three Swiss rifles, too, but that's outside the scope of this forum.

BTW, we usually shoot about 96 - 108 shots in my ROA on a guest day - without removing the cylinder.

tac
 
tac said:
whiskey said:
What is a good grease or lube to put on cylinder base pins.

I've used Shakespear spinning reel grease for the last thirty-something years. I lucked in to a 10 pound tub in the fishing tackle fire sale, and I'm still using it. I also use it on my three Swiss rifles, too, but that's outside the scope of this forum.

BTW, we usually shoot about 96 - 108 shots in my ROA on a guest day - without removing the cylinder.

tac

Yeah the ROA has a better design, since it has a bushing infront of the cylinder its more or less a "blast shield" none of the fouling gets down on the cylinder pin with a bushing. This isnt the case with a stock colt or a stock Remington.

The ROA is a WAY better design.
 
I've used white lithium for a long time. Got it at Western Auto, it had to be a long time ago. A little dab goes a long way. It's more like Yellow Lithium now.
 
a friend gave me a tip that has worked great for many years.

i smear Mobile-1 red grease on the cylinder pin ... either shaft on C&B's or pin on Rem/Colts ... this has always been the shis niss and i never have a binding problem ... i just brush away the fouling on the cylinder front with my tooth brush every 3 or 4 cylinder fulls.

i gotta say that the loading gets me faster then anything else. i swab the bore/chambers out with a spit swab every cylinder full that i want to actually hit what i want to hit. :hmm:

i use crisco over the ball to keep the fouling soft so it brush's away pretty easy and final cleanup is always very easy to accomplish.
 
Ted, I once shot my brand-new 5.5" Remmy about 100 rounds without removing and re-lubing the pin. It spun just fine, but on getting it home I had to knock the pin forward with a drift punch (after disassembling and removing the hammer). I learned it is much easier...no matter WHAT pin lube you use....to simply pop the cylinder out, wipe it off, and re-lube before recharging the cylinder every dozen shots or so. It only takes a second, and you can shoot all day without seizing a pin.
 
i can see that with the remy's and i can see the point with the Colts as well. ive never had the problem for one reasson or the other but i do see your point. maybe the reason is the crisco in the cylinder chambers ahead of the bullets. often had a build up of greasy grimey slime there in the area but to dat ... no binding ... knock on wood. :)
 
The grease sealing the chambers of a revolver would help prevent the cylinder from binding. It was a lot use when using the waxed felt cards instead of grease that allowed a build-up of powder crud blown back into the center pin from the cylinder front that was causing the problem, then and now. The Colt style with a larger arbor with grooves cut in it could hold a sufficient quantity of grease to keep the gun going. The smaller diameter, smooth arbor was the bone of contention with the Remingtons and it was still hotly argued in the late 50's & 60's that Remingtons were too prone to "locking up" to be relied on. We know that's pretty much baloney, since the modern lubricants can do a much better job than lard or rendered fats. If the pin is wiped off fairly often and a bit of something slippery wiped on it, the Remingtons will shoot just fine. I don't see any of us getting into a major, multi-shot gun fight with out Colts & Remingtons anywho! :haha:
 
When I started shooting BP I had a gun dealer friend who told me of the best grease to use and the reason why.
It was Moly-grease on the base pin and some other parts that might wear a lot.
The reason was Moly-grease would wear into the metal, and help to protect it.
So I used that on my base pin, and never had any trouble with wear, or rust, on either the cylinder or the pin. And I can shoot it around 50 times
before I need to clean thing up a bit.

Robin47 !
 
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