Dead clean.....then.....funny brown...

[roundball]

I stand corrected... :thumbsup: ...let us know how it does for you

 

[AZ-Robert]

I would say that is flash rust you are seeing...

I'm getting here late, so you may have already figured all this out, Ice Tigre.... but I agree with Musketman -- it's most likely "flash" rust. WD-40 is (IMO) the cure, but I think it is a mistake to swab the WD-40 out with dry patches as you are doing. When I'm finished cleaning my gun, I give it a swab with a WD-40 patch then let it sit for a few hours so the WD-40 has a chance to do its job.... displacing the water. Down here where humidity is low, the water gets displaced from the nooks, crannies, and surfaces and then evaporates pretty quickly. You may get different results, depending on how close to the coast you are.

After the WD-40 has had a chance to work, I put on a light coat of oil. Used to be I would follow that up a day or two later with an alcohol soaked patch just to make sure everything was clean. That always produced a clean patch. But when I came back a day or two later with another patch, it would always come up with the flash rust you are seeing... turns out the alcohol (and the water in it) that I used to check it the first time was the cause. Now I do my checking with a WD-40 soaked patch (just to lube it for the trek down the barrel rather then sending it down dry)

 

[Zonie]

Several experiments over the years seem to agree that by itself WD40 or Olive Oil are not the best rust preventatives

Castor Oil on the other hand have scored very high when it comes to preventing rust.
Zonie

 

[Ice Tigre]

I just don't trust the wd40 by itself, I've had it trap moisture and corode/rust things on engines.
although it has only happened a few times, it still happened.

I wanted to run a patch to see if it rusted again today, but I was too scared! :redface: :haha:

Gotta do it though....
About the olive oil; I had done a lot of reading about this, including the lube war;http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/18363/post/21390 . I had thought, that olive oil had done better, but I must have mixed it up with the castor oil!

anywho....

:v
Gary

 

[Zonie]

Mixin up Castor Oil and Olive Oil might create something pretty unstable. I know just the Castor Oil can cause parts of my system to become pretty unstable all by itself. :rotf: :grin:


Stolen from Lube Wars test results after 2 weeks of testing outside;
"...
2 Olive Oil

 

[buckknife]

Joe i used to do the same untill recently.The moisture and fouling in the pores of the metal have to be neturalized.By making the water slightly basic with a small amount of murphys oil soap it will neturalize the fouling left in the pores.After that about any oil will work.I like oil better than wax lubes or moose milks because it seems easer for me to get the same amount on the patch each time.Castor oil seems to thick and vegy oil which is soybean oil seems too thin,same with corn oil.Extra virgin olive oil seems just about right for me and its cold pressed,not chemically removed.
Ive used it for patch lube and liked it and use it for storage lube.At first i checked them daily for a week,then once a week.Now i would be comfortable with olive oil in the bore for a month a least.Ive never pulled not even a speck of brown or red when i use it after cleaning with COLD water and murphys oil soap.I would prefer jojoba oil,seems a hair more accurate but it cost to much.Olive oil is cheaper.
Works for me.

 

[Ice Tigre]

Just to let you know how it worked out; I ran a dry patch last night; Clean! I re oiled with castor oil. Will probably check it in another 4 or 5 days if I don't get out to shoot this weekend.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


Gary

 

[bullofthewoods]

I use Rem Oil as my rust preventative at the end of my cleaning process and have been happy with the results, no rust. One thing I had to get used to that was different than cleaning my centerfires was that the bigger bored, long guns require a lot more "product" than I was used to and I think I might actually have been under using or not using enough.

My question: until now, I have been using the pre-soaked wonderlube cleaning patches to remove the Rem-oil before shooting. Is that the best thing to use or should I be doing something else?

Bull

 

[roundball]

I use Rem Oil as my rust preventative at the end of my cleaning process and have been happy with the results, no rust. One thing I had to get used to that was different than cleaning my centerfires was that the bigger bored, long guns require a lot more "product" than I was used to and I think I might actually have been under using or not using enough.

My question: until now, I have been using the pre-soaked wonderlube cleaning patches to remove the Rem-oil before shooting. Is that the best thing to use or should I be doing something else?

Bull

Well, if that works it's hard to argue with success...wouldn't have thought one lubed patch would pull out another lube from a bore...is Rem-Oil a petroleum based lube or is it a synthetic?

If I was going to try and remove petroleum based resiudue from a bore, I would have assumed I'd have to first dry patch it with a tight fitting patch, then use a patch wet with drugstore alcohol, then a tight fitting dry patch again.
:hmm:

 

[bullofthewoods]

That's what I am wondering, if my "process" of getting that out is "successful". I don't know if it is coming out or not, all I can say is that I have not noticed any additional build-up, fouling or difficulty loading. My belief was the cleaning patches were capable of cleaning BP residue, they should wipe up other gunk as well.? Is the Rem-Oil synthetic? If so do I need to worry about cleaning it up and how well. I am new at this and continue to learn. I may try the dry patch and alcohol, sounds reasonable, is this the "accepted practice". Thanks for the advice!

 

[bullofthewoods]

Update, I checked the container that my cleaning patches (EZ-Lube Cleaning patches by Traditions) come in. It advertises that the patches remove, of many other uses, petroleum based oils. For the record, Rem-oil advertises on its container as containing petroleum distillates.

Bull

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I guess I've never understood the aversion to "petro oils". I've always used petroleum gun oils and never had a complaint with them. On this forum and ONLY here I've heard folks speak of a "tar residue". I have no idea what that could be, I've never experienced anything like that in more than 50 years of black powder shooting.

 

[Ice Tigre]

I guess I've never understood the aversion to "petro oils". I've always used petroleum gun oils and never had a complaint with them. On this forum and ONLY here I've heard folks speak of a "tar residue". I have no idea what that could be, I've never experienced anything like that in more than 50 years of black powder shooting.

Well, your probably better at swabbing it out of the bore before the first shot than most people are. I have not had the residue problem much, I just don't like useing chemicals, or overly processed natural items. I figure it is generaly more healthy to not have such things get on me either.

Gary

 

[Zonie]

I don't call it a "tar residue".

Now, I'm only speaking for myself but one example of the Hard residue that I've seen several times on my Percussion guns is built up in the nipple threads if I have lubed the nipple with a petrolium type of oil.
After a days shooting when I clean the gun, the nipple is very hard to remove. In fact, I have had to work the nipple back and forth a partial turn to get it to break loose.

If I lube the threads with a vegetable oil like Castor this hard buildup doesn't occure. Yes, it's got black fouling in the threads but it isn't hard so the nipple is fairly easy to unscrew.

 

[buckknife]

Joe i have shot before with just runing a dry patch to remove the petro oil with no problems but most times id just use ruben alkey to remove it first.Ive even used breakfree clp for a patch lube before but i swabed the bore between each shot.If i tryed it with out swaben i dont think i could have got more than 2 in a row.When the sulfur in the fouling is mixed with petro oil it will cause hard fouling that is diffacult to remove.I belive the way asphalt is made is by heating sulfur with some kind of petro oil to 600 degrees for like several hours.This is what goes on in the bore with petro oil on a lesser scale.
If you arnt sure try using your favorite petro oil for a patch lube with out swabing between shots. :winking: