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Decent Flintlock Rifle.

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Here on this site there are used guns available. I have purchased several and the people on this site have all proven to be stellar individuals.
I've bought a couple of pistols and rifles here, and all purchases were smooth.
I also bought a Hawken-type .50 cal from the SASS Classified forum, since I'm a member. I think non-SASS members can buy from there, too. Sometimes, cowboys don't know the value of MLs, so you might get a good deal, like I did! 🤠
 
I've bought a couple of pistols and rifles here, and all purchases were smooth.
I also bought a Hawken-type .50 cal from the SASS Classified forum, since I'm a member. I think non-SASS members can buy from there, too. Sometimes, cowboys don't know the value of MLs, so you might get a good deal, like I did! 🤠
SASS….single action shooting sports? I used to do Cowboy Action Shooting…that was a fun sport, but so expensive. With today’s prices…OMG.
 
Singe Action Shooting Society. I started when it was still cheap. $11 for 100 rds .38 spl. LRN.
https://forums.sassnet.com/index.php?/forum/14-sass-wire-classifieds/No BP guns right now, but I check daily, 'cause so do other folks, and good deals go quick!
And here? You almost have to be online 24-hours a day to not miss the good deals. They go super quick.
Good luck in your search.
 
A thousand bucks will almost get you a Kibler kit, definitely a nice TVM kit, Pedersoli or Traditions kit and most certainly a quality used gun if you watch the forums. Some of these are well under that cost. If you join a black powder club the experienced BP shooters can possibly steer you to a good flinter. Getting other flintlock shooters to keep you in the loop might just get you what you want.
 
1st - a good lock (siler, l&r, ....)
2nd - a good barrel(Hoyt, Don Getz ,green mtn. Rice, Colerain, or other proven makers)
3rd- then some one who can put them togather ( a Knowen builder will increase the value ) but there are several unknown builders that do Very Fine work look to fit and finsh

Find a club near you who have Black powder/ flintlock persons see what they are using and ask & learn,
they may shorten your learning curve.
Some guys will let you try thier guns, All like to brag about thier KIT&Guns

you might even find a good flinter for sale who's owner is moving up in class(cost) or estate sale
When buying used check for pitting , barrel bulge(run a tight fitting oiled patch full lenth of the barrel feeling for loose/sudden easy-drop of the rod)rust ring gritty feeling near ball seat. funtion of the lock&triggers do they hold at half cock, release cleanly, fire double set and unset...
check stock fit and for damage, splits (hook breaches near tang area) and screw heads abused or sharp.
a well cared for rifle will show expect normal wear but look for abuse or neglect rust ring in barrel(wet patch left to long/ not cleaned after use)
There are ok/good production guns But there might be a great used one(custom/semi) Kibler's Longrifles in your future if you know what to look for

the Great plains rifle was going near 800+new locks need work ,TC is gone but are still some good ones parts might be hard to get, yes I have a Traditions but it needed lock & trigger work to make it good.
All are fun
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Here are some of my custom flinters (Allen martin,Fred Sampson, Cabin creek , Nate Mckenze) and side by side with some production guns Traditions Tenn. Trad Kentucky CabincreekYorktown(custom)and great plains rifle you can decide what makes a good/great flinter
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Production guns are inferior, but think about how they are inferior.
Wood quality, production guns won’t have the best looking wood.
Fit and finish. Production guns won’t match anywhere close to a custom costing five to ten times as much.
Historic accuracy. Over the counter rifles are generic at best. Not matching the real guns. At worse they are a parody of real guns.
How important is that to you?
I would be happy with a perdisoli Brown Bess, even though it is less then accurate copy of real besses. While the perdisoli trade gun is not something I would want to spend my cash on.
A Great Plains rifle looks more like a Hawken then Thomson Center guns
Both Miss the real thing
What do you think of that. Can you be happy with a not perfect style?
How about performance?
A Traditions flintlock is a poor design. And because of that can be frustrating.
The Thompson center flint lock is a good working lock, but it’s ugly and does not look at all like real flint locks.
Perdisoli locks function pretty well, and the big locks on military style like loyalist arms are pretty sure fire.
Down range?
A Traditions at the low end of the price range will shoot as well as you can hold
Killer scores at shot ever year by production and tons of meat is put in the freezer with production guns
The question is what are you happy with?
I have a Southren Mountain Style rifle. It has the wrong style lock on it.
It mocks me every time I pick it up, but not enough to talk me in to replacing it
 
Personally, I would go with a Lyman Trade Rifle or a Great Plains Rifle. (both made by Investarm, of Italy.) They are robust enough to take your shooting habits, affordable, and L&R makes a great replacement lock if the original ever gives you any problems. I shot a Trade Rifle for years and it was a solid gun. The 1:48 twist was great for both PRB's and conicals.

Search tags:
Investarm muzzleloader
Cabela's Hawken
Armsport Hawken
Lyman Trade rifle/GPR

Here's a flint Trade Rifle on GB:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/938707514
 
Agree with the recommendation for a Lyman but I got the 1:66 twist for flintlock in 54 Cal and I did change to an L&R lock. Rifle shoots better than I can.
 
I have several flintlocks, including Lyman/Investarms rifles. I'd suggest the Trade rifle as an easy to handle and capable rifle. Mine all work smoothly and with 100% ignition; there's no need to consider a replacement lock, since the Investarms locks are solidly built and completely functional.
Several years ago I got a Deerstalker because of talk of discontiuing them. I used it as my "Grapefruit Gun" since it was used at the range primarily for plinking grapefruit placed out at the 100 yard line. That short barrel in no way impeded accuracy.
I'd also suggest .54 cal., since it is easier for working up an accurate load, and maintaining accuracy.
 
As a new buyer myself, coming to this forum I learned about SWAMPED barrels, and their advantage in weight savings. especially the longer the barrel!
The next flintlock rifle I buy will be with a shorter barrel, looking like those the German Yeagers made in the USA early on,
in maybe a .72 caliber!
JaegerFlintlock Rifle Original REAL.png
 
If you have Facebook you can look up Jackie Brown. He has been building flintlocks for about 50 years, and reasonably priced, serviceable, no-frills guns are his specialty. I trade a lot of guns, and I have managed to own 7 of his guns. None were fancy, but all got the job done. I own some guns from big-time builders, and the Brown guns would hang with any of them for shooting. I am sure he would put something together for you for around $1000.
 
I pretty much have my mind made up on a 54cal flintlock for an elk tag I drew here by my house. The search is on for one that won't break the bank.
 
As a new buyer myself, coming to this forum I learned about SWAMPED barrels, and their advantage in weight savings. especially the longer the barrel!
The next flintlock rifle I buy will be with a shorter barrel, looking like those the German Yeagers made in the USA early on,
in maybe a .72 caliber!View attachment 149597
I took my deer last year with a .62 Jaeger. I still love my long guns, but the short guns are fun and they pack a wallop.
 
Well I went ahead and bought a Traditions Kentucky flintlock rifle. I know, it's pretty much at the bottom for being a reliable shooter. Anyhow I went to the range and was able to get it to shot the very first time. It was so awesome! Then it wasn't. Took around 4-5 times fiddling with it and then boom. Hugh smile on my face. So it gave me grief pretty much the whole time there. I was using 3fg in the pan, 4fg is on it's way in the mail.
I'm thinking of smoothing/polishing the moving parts in the lock. Any advice on this would be appreciated. I know that if/when I mess it up I can buy a decent lock that should fit without to much problem from L&R Locks. But I sure would like to get it working myself.
 

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