Deck sealent?

[sparsons]

this is not meant get into a PC thing like the bedding question but simply to ask a question. After reading about the harm of gun oils and getting moisture in the channel I had a thought (usually very dangerous for me). If I coated the barrel channel with my deck sealent wouldn't it protect the wood for a long time. Would it make the wood too slick or be harmful to the wood in any way? Again this is not to start a PC thing but to ask if this would seem practical and worth while. :hatsoff:

 

[renovato]

Generally, you can seal the wood with whatever you're using as a finish. Just dilute it with 1 to 2 parts mineral spirits and let the wood soak it up. When the wood won't hold anymore, let it dry and repeat a couple times. Don't forget the ramrod channel and the insides of holes and inletting.

I'm not sure that there would be any benefit to deck sealant.

 

[Black Hand]

Several coats of shellac in the barrel channel as well as lock mortise do the trick for me......

 

[paulvallandigham]

I put a hand rubbed( read that as " stretched) stock finish in the lock mortise, barrel channel, and ramrod channel. I also do the end grain under the buttplate. and any mortise for the trigger guard, escutcheons, end cap, etc. That seals the wood well from anything that might spill on it, including water, and oil.

You can also use water pump grease in the barrel channel to protect the barrel and wood from taking on water. But, I would coat the wood FIRST with a good stock finish, like Birchwood/Casey True Oil.

I am not a big fan of shellacs, or mineral spirits. Shellacs do seal the grain completely, and don't allow moisture out either. They don't take sunlight well at all, as the UV light will cloud them in a New York Minute! Mineral spirits tend to keep raising grain in the wood, so that you are either forever going over the stock with steel wool, or sandpaper. I finally gave up using mineral spirits on gunstocks, and use scrapers now to cut off the whiskers, rather than steel wool or sandpaper. The scrapers do a better job, and it only takes practice to learn how to leave a fine, EVEN finish to the wood for staining, or coating with stock finish.

 

As I said before - just use a good quality marine urithane. It will definately keep moisture (oil, water, blood or spit) from soaking into the wood under the barrel. Watch for runs and splashes onto the visable portions of the stock. Deck finish... I don't know about this stuff. For the PC Police, rant on and knock youself out.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I've used Thompsons Water Seal on gun wood, takes 3-4 coats to seal it well. this is in the barrel channel/reciever area.

 

[tg]

Some deck sealer atre meant to halt the groth of organic matter, I don't think they would hurt the woodbut I don't know if they would be any better than your regular stock finish I like BLO and marine spar varn with a little mineral spirtits.

 

[Jac Spring]

Speaking from my C&R experience, gettcha some boiled linseed oil from the hardware store - use liberally as often as you like. The wood sucks it up - apply until the wood doesnt' take any more. Just rub on, wait 15 min.s, rub off - easy as pie to apply.

 

[tg]

The current though in the gunbuilding community is that BLO of today is not much in the way of water proofing or protecting from moisture this has come up in many threads the last several years. That is why I mix in some marine spar varnish.

 

[Jac Spring]

I have quite a few old mausers that would disagree :grin:

If anyone has any reservations about using BLO, I would suggest treating a piece of scrap wood - give it several coats and then put that wood into water and leave it for a day and see if it sucks up the water. That would prove or disprove the "modern" BLO's effectiveness.

Spar Varnish is hard to beat though - it is truely long-term water proof.

I just don't see that as needed for a firearm.

 

[tg]

Just passing along the thoughts of some of the top builders of today.....I like the spar varn mix because it gives a tougher/harder finish than straight BLO

 

[spitpatch]

Watco Danish oil finish works great. Use just as you would linseed oil. Wont build up and easy to go over if you get a scratch or any other blemishes.

 

[Old40Rod]

Ditto... I use 4:1 BLO/spar varnish mix. It looks great, isn't shiny, keeps out moisture and is a cinch to fix scratches.

 

[douglas34474]

I myself tend to stay away from BLO. It is treated with metallic dryers and is toxic. Also has quite a bit of odor. Instead I use RAW linseed oil. If you can't find it in the hardware store, go to the local health food store were it is sold as FLAX SEED oil.

I use it on all my stocks. Never had a problem with moisture. It is truly the original 'oil finish'.