Dickydalton's Robert. E. Lee Commemorative Custom

[45D]

Dickydalton sent me this 2nd gen. and requested that I do "everything" to it. So, I thought with all the questions asked lately about springs, arbors and such that I'd do a pictorial of the job so folks could see and decide what they could do themselves. So, I'll add to this as I go and answer any questions along the way.

Here's the subject :

It's in excellent condition with a high polish finish.

First I'll modify the action parts as needed.

 

[45D]

The bolt arms are the same thickness and "shortness". Ideally, the left arm (as installed . . . drivers side) needs to be strong in the vertical but "linguini" in the horizontal. The original parts were pretty much that way (Uberti's bolts are like the originals). Since this is a '70's revolver the left arm needs a lot of thinning!! I also lengthen the arm by cutting forward into the body ("long" bends easier than "short").

So here's stock-

And here's "linguini".

Another mod is putting an angle towards the OUTSIDE of the rear "vertical pad" that rides in a groove put in the hammer cam. That ensures the bolt arm stays "on" the cam and can't slide off the side to start degrading the cam.
Here's the arm angle -

Here's the cam angle -

 

[45D]

Ok, as for the other end of the bolt (the ball end or head), I understood what Bob Munden was doing by cutting a "step" in the head and basically making a 2-step head. As the first step clears the cyl notch that's appearing above it, it rises into the notch guaranteeing there wont be any throw- by as the second step rides the notch through till lockup. The problem with that is, the "stepping" eventually degrades the edge of the notch which causes other problems. My solution was to make a "slide" on the top of the head so that there is no "dropping" on the edge of the notch.

So now you get no throw-by and it's easy on the notch.

The other "notch saving" mod is a cutaway on the tall side of the bolt. The very top of the bolt head is of course fitted to the cyl notches. That part of the head will be completely inside the notch at lockup. What I do is relieve the "side" of the tall side that isn't inside the notch plus maybe about 1/4th. That ensures that no contact will be made on the edge of the notch . . . no matter the clearance that exists.
Here's a pic -

So now, you have a "race" bolt that actually protects your cylinder notches.

 

[45D]

Anyway, here's a bottom view of the "longer arm" . It's polished now ,sorry about the glare.

Most of the time the hammer roller looses contact with the main spring . . . . especially if the spring has a track for it. The problem is the roller is buried too deep and the "cheeks" will contact the spring instead of the roller.

Notice the top hammers roller is barely visible compared to the lower hammer. Roller removal is necessary to reduce the cheeks and when reinstalled, I like to "stake" or trap the now shorter roller pin in place.

 

[dickydalton]

I'm loving this!

 

[45D]

The hand length is critical for timing. The first step in "setting" timing is correct hand length. Since the trigger sear and full cock notch location are a "given", the hand can be dressed (shortened) or stretched to make LOCKUP happen simultaneously when reaching full cock. Once hand length is established, you can adjust bolt drop and the result is "perfect timing".
The hand in Dickydalton's Navy didn't need stretching but the 2nd Gens have a 2 piece hand . . . the hand and mounting pin. The pin can rotate and in a close tolerance setup can change "hand length" enough to mess with the timing. So, I LOCK the two together. Cutting a groove at the pin allows you rotate the pin and punch material into the cut. That will lock them together.
Like this-

Also, the top forward edge of the hand is typically sharp which means it's susceptible to abuse or significant wear. I like to lay it face down on some 220 or 320 paper and move the sharp edge back which gives some support for the edge. Then you can start with your length check.
Here's a before and after-

 

[45D]

DRILL BABY DRILL !!!!!

Let's start with the hand spring and pushrod hole in the frame!!

Next, arbor drilled and tapped-

Then the cap post -

Action stop -

not to mention a little GGW thrown in )


Then of course there's the holes for the interference pins. This one is for the hammer screw -

and for the trigger and bolt screws-

Swiss cheese ain't got nothing on me !!!

 

[45D]

The interference pins sit on flat surfaces cut on the screws (hence the reason why the screws are installed during the drilling process). This marks the surface location on each screw ( yes, they should always go back in the same hole. That's why I always mark the bolt screw with a cut on the shaft). Mixing screws can alter the timing or in some cases make a SA non functional ( hence, the main reason for interference pins!! ).
The pins are then cut flush with the frame surface. Therefore, as long as the back strap and trigger guard are in place, the shooting should be nonstop!!!

These pics are from CraigC's 45acp build (since I'm not there on Dickys yet) but with screws tight, the pins are flush.

When you loosen the screws, they pop up out of the way ( grease holds them in place). -