steak
32 Cal
wanna try something better than smoking your molds ?
Smoke gunpowder and BLOW your mind
Smoke gunpowder and BLOW your mind
How do you get one lit?The way I look at it is the guys who made the molds might just know a little more about them than I do so if the instructions say smoke the mold that's what I do.
Not necessary for my Accurate/BACO/Lee/RCBS and Lyman molds , guess I'm lucky or good @what I do ? Casting for 50+ yrs I don't remember anymore ,fire up the pot and it just happens ! EdIn short I went casting 8-14-23 I started with my .451 round ball I forgot to smoke the mold realizing it when I was about 1/2 through I figured no issues no point of stopping, I then grabbed the LEE R.E.A.L 320 grain .50 which was brand new only had been scrubbed, I figured keep trend going a few frosted but no negative seized mold no bleeps, blunders did round 130ish of those, non smoked mold. Did the same for .495`s as well. Non Smoked mold. So has anyone else either positive or negative outcome of smoking or not smoking experiences? I am asking as a relatively new caster.
I don’t think a propane torch would do the trick. When I was working in the Geddy Foundry at Colonial Williamsburg, we used to smoke our bronze moulds for pewter and our sand moulds for everything else with a little kerosene torch. At home I use a small oil lamp without a chimney, and it works great!I remember that when starting with a lee mold I would stick the corner of the mould in the pot with the melted lead to heat it up. otherwise I would have bullets with wrinkles and air pockets until the mould heated up. maybe using a propane torch would heat it and smoke it
I have heard that about using Kroil but thought that the mold had to be free of oil to prevent wrinkles in the boolits. Then again, I know they do get rusty (iron molds) in damp climates unless you do something to prevent the rust. Here in the high desert area of Idaho, I haven't seen a problem with much rust on anything.I have every type of mould around. Ive never smoked any of them. Brand new Lee's or 1930s Ideals.
Even the custom postel ones get nothing.
I do soak them down with Kroil when they are cooled and ready to be put away.
I tried the Kroil treatment on one mould, a Lyman 2 cavity [#245496 for my .243Win.] because it was a bit reluctant to drop its contents: Didn't work for me. However, there is one other "solution" if you'd care to try it. To wit, spray the mould cavities with alcohol based dry graphite film, but don't overdo it. It works pretty well, but wears off in time and can be removed with alcohol on a cotton swab or old toothbrush.I have heard that about using Kroil but thought that the mold had to be free of oil to prevent wrinkles in the boolits. Then again, I know they do get rusty (iron molds) in damp climates unless you do something to prevent the rust. Here in the high desert area of Idaho, I haven't seen a problem with much rust on anything.
Frankly, that's absurd. The smoke layer isn't enough to insulate anything.Smoke makes an insulation layer.
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