Does anyone else clean in the stock?

[thatoneguy82]

I clean my flint Tenn mtn. rifle with the barrel in the stock, just swab with cleaning solution damp patches and have had good results. Tried this on a percussion CVA Mtn. rifle without removing the nipple and found out on the range that it was like it and the bolster were full of concrete. I took the barrel out and cleaned it thouroly out of the stock but am curious if anyone else cleans their percussion guns without pulling the barrel?

 

[BrownBear]

I've done it on guns that were pinned rather than having hooked breeches, but always taking care to remove the nipple and thoroughly clean the flame channel/bolster as well as the bore.

 

[mooman76]

That's the way I do the pinned guns and even the ones with wedges if I didn't shoot it much that day.

 

[MacRob46]

Always remove the nipple and clean underneath it. I use pipe cleaners and Q-tips to do mine. If you wrap a rag around the stock and make sure that it does not become saturated in cleaning solution while you are working there will be no damage to the finish. If you can take the barrel out of the stock easily then removing the barrel is probably the best way to do it. However, as mentioned by the other folks who responded, removing pinned barrels regularly can create problems and is not easy.

 

[Rat Trapper]

If the gun has a clean out screw make sure to take it out too. when putting the clean out screw and nipple be sure to use a little breech plug grease.

 

[galamb]

I pin most of my barrels and use a fixed breech so they rarely get pulled.

BUT, I also (kinda/sorta) bed all my barrel channels.

Not the way most think of bedding with Accra-glass or the like to support/fit the barrel, but after I have a barrel channel cut in I treat it with an unthickened mix of Marine Epoxy and let the wood suck in all it will take.

That protects the channel from all matter of crud/rot and strengthens it as an added bonus. I treat the breech tang/lock/trigger inlet exactly the same way.

When the "gloop/cooties" you note are touching nothing but "hardened thermo-plastic (BPA)" and finished metal, it doesn't do much harm.

 

[Alden]

Stay in stock...

 

[thatoneguy82]

Thanks all, I should be able to get this new technology sorted out now.

 

[Patocazador]

I've done it on guns that were pinned rather than having hooked breeches, but always taking care to remove the nipple and thoroughly clean the flame channel/bolster as well as the bore.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This my reply too.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I have two longrifles, a musket, and a fusil and all four are cleaned in the stock.

LD

 

[hanshi]

If it's pinned, the barrel stays in. :thumbsup:

 

[Melnic]

I'm curious cause all mine are wedged and I remove, stick in a 3" capped PVC pipe, add Hot soapy water. Barrel removed, nipple removed then flush with a patch changing patch and water a couple times.
I had purchased the Dutch S. info and he made mention of the waterless method but I never saw it in the pages he sent.
Is there a thread somewhere on any waterless method or just cleaning methods people use? Seems there are a lot of choices.

 

[Billnpatti]

If my rifle has wedges so that the barrel can be easily removed, I always remove it to clean it. I immerse the breach in a bucket of soapy water and thoroughly flush out the bore. If the barrel is pinned into the stock, I clean the barrel in the stock. I do not remove pinned barrels for routine cleaning.

 

[Okie Hog]

i usually clean the gun in the stock. The underside of the barrel has a coat of grease. If the gun was in snow or rain the barrel comes out of the stock.

The bore of my muzzleloaders get swabbed using Windex with vinegar followed by a patch moistened with water, dry patches and an oily patch.

 

[Heelerau]

Mate I clean all my rifle barrels in the stock, my percussion shotgun with hooked breeches and wedge is removed from the stock to clean. If I had any hooked breeck rifles with wedges those would be cleaned out of the stock. I have a funny tool that clamps over the touchhole on my flintlocks (remove the lock first) with a hose attachement. I have a screw in hose fitting and hose for the muskets.

Cheers

 

[Billnpatti]

I might suggest a better choice for protecting the underside of your barrels. Grease can soak into the stock and cause anything from discoloration of the wood to actually damaging the wood. The next time you remove one of those barrels, thoroughly clean off all traces of grease and then apply 2 or 3 good coats of automobile wax. Buff between each coat. The result will be a well protected barrel that will not damage your stock in any way. The wax will last longer than grease, too. :thumbsup:

 

[ccmountainman]

Like you, I use a all natural lube on the underside of my barrel and rub linseed oil in the stock where barrel sits.
I only remove to clean every year or so.

Same with the guts of my revolver. The innards are filled with lube so residue doesn't get in in the first place.

 

[thatoneguy82]

I think I'm going to give that vinegar/windex solution a try.

I have a flush nipple coming for my pinned late percussion project, and i might have to invest in a flintlock flush tool as well.

 

[jamesthomas]

Like you, I use a all natural lube on the underside of my barrel and rub linseed oil in the stock where barrel sits.
I only remove to clean every year or so.

I also will pull and check the underside about twice a year, Clean everything up if I see any rust then apply a thin coat of Birchwood Caseys RIG to the underside. If I've been hunting in bad weather I'll pull and check it after I'm done hunting and give it a look.

 

[ccmountainman]

pretty much same here.
If been out in rain and snow, pull clean dry,
relube.
Otherwise once a year or so