• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Does anyone rust blue a hawk

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Kilted Cowboy

Pilgrim
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
100
Reaction score
37
Location
Plain-O Texas
Just got a hand forged hawk and was contemplating finishes to protect metal and enhance. was thinking about using some LMF barrel brown solution on it . Has anyone done this or any other ideas?
 
I use distilled white vinegar on many of my high carbon blades. Degrease thoroughly and completely submerge. Comes out a nice dove gray to charcoal grey depending on time soaked and steel make up. It's also food safe unlike old blue solutions. All my knives wind up in contact with food at some point, and my hawk gets used to disassemble game.
Vinegar is also cheap.
 
I have used both Birchwood Casey Super Blue and Plumb Brown. You just have to heat the hawk head in the oven to around 220 degrees so the solution sizzles when applied to get the best affect. Cool and wash with soapy water, steel wool with 0000, and oil. Or if you want you can leave un-oiled for a few days and it will darken a bit more, then steel wool with 0000 and oil.

Here is a photo of one browned.

DSC03374-1.JPG


Here is a photo of one blued.

006-1-3.jpg
 
As a side comment for anyone using Plum Brown, Birchwood Casey's instructions say the temperature should be 280°F for it to work like it should.
 
As a side comment for anyone using Plum Brown, Birchwood Casey's instructions say the temperature should be 280°F for it to work like it should.
Zonie,
Thanks for the correct info. I knew it was 200 degrees plus but couldn't remember the exact temperature. I should have researched.
 
I have used both Birchwood Casey Super Blue and Plumb Brown. You just have to heat the hawk head in the oven to around 220 degrees so the solution sizzles when applied to get the best affect. Cool and wash with soapy water, steel wool with 0000, and oil. Or if you want you can leave un-oiled for a few days and it will darken a bit more, then steel wool with 0000 and oil.

Here is a photo of one browned.

View attachment 9797

Here is a photo of one blued.

View attachment 9798

That top hawk in really great looking! May I ask who made it?
 
Just some food for thought, although there were some fancy hawks made for smoking and showing off, hawks were generally tools for chopping wood, quartering game, even digging holes in an emergency.
A bit of mustard rubbed on (vinegar the active ingredient) wiped off the next day gives a good mottled brownish color. A few stokes of the file gives a shinny edge and a bit of oil or bees wax on the handle gives a cared for but working tool look.
 
I just finished making my first hawk from Track of the Wolf. I used Laurel Mountain Forge cold browning. I layed down 3 applications without carding between. Afterwards, I aggressively scuffed the finish back with a red Scotchbrite pad for an antiqued finish. I flame hardened the handle and stained with Aqua fortis. Made some 18th century boiled linseed oil with lead carbonate and finished it with beeswax.
The handle isn't the best fit on the head but it will work for clearing a shooting lane for deer season this year.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2906.JPG
    IMG_2906.JPG
    27.1 KB
  • IMG_2905.JPG
    IMG_2905.JPG
    30.3 KB
Back
Top