Does one need to apply oil or ballistol INSIDE the lock?

[CS]

Hi all,
I came to realize (been a year roughly since I started getting into this hobby!) that I need to take better care of my flintlocks. Was wondering - do folks typically worry about rust INSIDE the lock, and if so, do they do the same thing as exterior i.e. apply ballistol or oil?

And does one have to dissassemble the lock and apply to every piece (tumbler, springs, screws, sears, bridles, everything) , or just broadly apply the ballistol on the entire lock inside and out?

Thanks in advance, guys (and happy thanksgiving)!

 

[stubshaft]

I usually clean my locks in a pot of hot water with ballistol. After cleaning I'll dry it off in the oven set on low which leaves a fine film of ballistol coating all of the parts,

 

[French Colonial]

Disassembly not required, At home I usually remove the lock from the gun and scrub it with water and a toothbrush, dry with compressed air and use some light oil on it (Nothing that will gum up or lock things up in frozen weather.
I love Ballistol but it is a little to heavy for this in my opinion.
If staying somewhere overnight and hunting/shooting again the next day I do not remove it and save the cleaning for later.

 

[Tumbledown]

You don't need Ballistol. You don't need to disassemble it, either. I clean with hot soapy water, rinse with hot water, shake off the excess, then dry. I have a small bottle of oil with a needle tip, I oil the tumbler, sear, and frizzen pivots, just a tiny bit will do, and work the mechanism to spread it over the bearing surfaces. You definitely don't want too much as it can attract and hold dirt.

If the lock fits snug against the barrel, it shouldn't need much of a cleaning.

 

[Freedom]

Ballistol stinks...that is all that it does well. It is
just mineral oil (aka, laxative ) so its a poor lubricating oil. It is also water soluble, so it is a Very poor rust inhibitor.

BreakFree CLP is one of the best light oils you can buy.
Packing your lock with good John Deere tractor grease will really smooth out, and cushion a lock's operation.
After grease-packing a lock, you will feel and hear improved operation within the lock. The grease (and Kibler Colonial) preformed flawlessly when I tested them at -27°F(!). It did not thicken or become gummy.

 

[Phil Coffins]

“Ballistol stinks...that is all that it does well. It is
just mineral oil (aka, laxative ) so its a poor lubricating oil. It is also water soluble, so it is a Very poor rust inhibitor.“

Sound advice, and a light coat of Breakfree CLP has worked for me for decades.

 

[hanshi]

I've actually never taken a lock apart for cleaning. I used to soak them in water while I took care of the rest of the gun then dry them and oil. But now I just use a toothbrush, pipe cleaners and a "Q" tip. My locks seem to fit well and the lock internals stay free of fouling and corrosion. They are oiled sparingly and are never drippy from too much lube.

 

[Gtrubicon]

I like the smell of ballistol!

 

[Spikebuck]

Like others here, I remove the lock, but don't disassemble it. I clean the exterior with a toothbrush dipped in water and a little dawn. Usually there is nothing to clean on the internals as the are sealed against the barrel, but once or twice a year I brush those as well, blow them off, then liberally apply WD40 to ensure Water Displacement. I blow that out, wipe it as well, then sparingly apply TC Super Lube (a synthetic) where the mainspring contacts the plate, on the fly, and, working the lock, other contact points of internal components. Works for me and my locks have to work sub-zero.

 

[flconch53]

I've actually never taken a lock apart for cleaning. I used to soak them in water while I took care of the rest of the gun then dry them and oil. But now I just use a toothbrush, pipe cleaners and a "Q" tip. My locks seem to fit well and the lock internals stay free of fouling and corrosion. They are oiled sparingly and are never drippy from too much lube.

The only time to take a lock apart is if something is amiss. I clean mine with mild solvent and unlike others I give it a good spray with Rem Oil. I then hang it up and let it drip dry for a day. For a field cleaning wipe clean and a few drops of oil

 

[The Crisco Kid]

A few drops of any good oil chased around with compressed air will spread it into all the nooks and crannies.
I know, it's hard to pack around an air compressor in the field.

 

[wiscoaster]

I just spray inside and out with Ballistol aerosol, work the mechanism, then blow out the excess with canned air. It should be noted that I also clean inside and out with water, so Ballistol as the last step also ensures all the remaining moisture after the water step is gone.

 

[torpedo]

“Ballistol stinks...that is all that it does well. It is
just mineral oil (aka, laxative ) so its a poor lubricating oil. It is also water soluble, so it is a Very poor rust inhibitor.“

Sound advice, and a light coat of Breakfree CLP has worked for me for decades.

CLP FOR ME!!

 

[Tumbledown]

Packing your lock with good John Deere tractor grease will really smooth out, and cushion a lock's operation.
After grease-packing a lock, you will feel and hear improved operation within the lock. The grease (and Kibler Colonial) preformed flawlessly when I tested them at -27°F(!). It did not thicken or become gummy.

Packing with grease is the last thing anyone should be doing. It attracts and holds dirt. If you're applying so much it "cushions" the lock, you are actually inhibiting its operation.

 

[wiscoaster]

Packing with grease is the last thing anyone should be doing. It attracts and holds dirt. If you're applying so much it "cushions" the lock, you are actually inhibiting its operation.

(my emphasis added)

That's my opinion, too, but you'll find people with more expertise, experience and knowledge than me here, who will take a completely opposite view.

I don't know that there's any ONE "right" way.

Do what works for you. Experiment to find whatever that is. And have fun doing it.