DP Frontier.50

[Seabee Chief]

Good Morning All.
Ok kinda looking for some input. I was always fascinated with flintlocks. Had a .32 it was fun to shoot but decided to let it go. Now I have a DP Frontier.50. I have learned a lot on the forums, but wondering if it’s really worth it. Clatch’s, slow ignition, still need to file down front site and adjust to POA. To be honest there is a lot of work that goes into owning, loading, shooting, adjusting and cleaning a flitter. I’m 68. Hunted with everything for anything since I was 12. Once I get all the kinks out, and it is functioning reliably, is it really that enjoyable? I have a TC Hawking percussion and a TC Omega. No trouble with those. So really guys, is it worth going through the trouble ?
Thank you in advance for your thots. I really appreciate all of you.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@Seabee Chief, once that flint lock has been tuned to get the best performance from the lock and the clatches are virtually eliminated, it is worth it.

 

[Banjoman]

Yes, it is most definitely worth it. I have some percussion guns that I shoot occasionally, just because I like different kinds of traditional muzzleloaders. But, flintlocks are by far my favorite. A good lock with a sharp flint is hard to beat. My Chambers with a sharp flint is just as fast and dependable as any cap gun.

 

[Seabee Chief]

Thank you guys. To me the romance of using a flintlock is strong. I posted on another forum about sighting in and filing down the front sight. Was wondering about sighting in using my lead sled instead of bags. Would that make a difference? It doesn’t with my smokeless guns but don’t know bout a flintlock. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Try it with both systems before filing sights. If the groups agree do the sight in, I would expect them to be different so pick the system that you will use and sight in with that.

 

[Seabee Chief]

Thank you. I will try that.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

I like both. I am more accurate with percussion but love the romance & history of the flinter.

 

[Seabee Chief]

Ok. So today I fired 3 shots from this gun at 15 yards. Almost the same hole. Got good spark with out loading. Loaded. No Spark tried again. Spark and no ignition. Pushed some Goex 3F into the th, primed and it went off. Kinda slow. Always use a pick to feel the powder. Second shot. New flint. New leather thinner pad. Nice spark. Loaded. No spark. Recocked, 3 times 1 no spark 1 spark. 1 fast boom after shoving more powder into flash hole.. I’m about ready to sell this thing. Th drilled out to 1/16. This is maybe the 5th or 6th time I have took this gun out and played with it. And yes. Last time out I pulled the barrel washed it clean inside and out. Big brush tiny brush. Dry patches before loading.

 

[Duk]

What kind of shape is your frizzen in?

 

[Seabee Chief]

Pretty scratched up.

 

[Duk]

It don't look any worse than a couple of mine but it may be used up

 

[Duk]

Try swapping it out with another one see if that makes a difference

 

[Seabee Chief]

Just primed the pan 6 times. No loads. 2 did not flash the first time but did the second. 4 did. It’s a new flint.

 

[Duk]

If your flint to frizzen angel is good about 60 degrees or so, and it's not eating your flints I'd say your frizzen is bad.

 

[Seabee Chief]

Could be. Thank you

 

[Rebel bull]

ok chief let's see if I can help, I would in order do
use 3f real black powder only for the main charge.
look at the vent liner pull if you can is the fire channel straight? if it is funnel the inside I also dish the outside to funnel the flame into the main charge.
now you say you are getting spark every time you prime the pan with no load? if not then I would pull the frizzen and heat it to cherry red and drop it in oil let it cool to room temp. check for hardness with a file, does it skate or cut? skate is good, if it cuts heat to allis chalmers ( tractor ) orange and quench and check, if it still cuts its to soft and I would replace it.
once you get it to skate across it needs to be drawn back ( annealed ) throw it in the oven hanging from a wire start the oven set as high as it will go 400 -500 degrees once it reaches temp hold it there for 1-2 hours and then shut the oven off when it cools to room temp you can open the door and remove it polish the face and reinstall it should work now and you should be in business!

I personally never pick my vent hole, on my flint locks I want to see the powder in the vent hole, on 2 of them I have won more then my fair share of drinks and money betting that they will shoot without a prime in the pan. In the one it's a guarantee never fails.

I hope this helps. Thank you for your service! get ahold of me if I can help further.

AMS 2 73-77

 

[Seabee Chief]

Thank you so much. I will absolutely try these things and let you know

 

[Flintandsteel]

Entry level flintlocks can be very frustrating. Add to that substitute powders,……..nightmare.
IMHO, you get what you pay for. A good quality lock is what it’s all about.
I absolutely would not want to go through all of that, just to get a gun to go off.
I am a dedicated flintlock builder and shooter. Took 2 to sight in yesterday, had zero misfires, or failures to fire. Just a lot of fun.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

My Frontier likes the flints bevel down if that helps. Goes off every time.

 

[sheriff john]

Don't give up. If you stay with it, try different fixes, when you get everything in sync, that's a "Michelangelo Moment" (Enjoy a deep breath, relax, and smile because YOU did it.). Flints are like a good hound dog. Not all are equal, but when you find one that throws showers of sparks and lasts a long time, it's sad to say but eventually that one, too will die. Just like Ol' Yeller. Tears....

I have no fail-safe method for choosing great flints. Same with hound dog puppies, but I do know when I get one that won't hunt (flints and dogs), but it takes a while. Have Fun and Good Luck!