I have never installed a barrel drum and don’t want to learn the hard way. I bought a plug and bottom tap from TOW. As of now, I have a small pilot hole drilled in the barrel. I am looking for some good tips on how to proceed forward with drilling out the hole with a Letter “I” bit and related 5/16” tap. I do have a drill press.
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Drilling and tapping for drum installation
- Thread starter MI MAN
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hi, you should also get the tool [ tow] to position the nipple in proper place. as for the drum blank you just need to make sure it is in proper location, drill and tap. watch the breech plug.
Clamp the barrel in your drill press and drill the hole. Leave the barrel clamped, remove drill bit and chuck up your tap. Turn chuck by hand to get tap started straight. Once tap is started , finish with tap wrench, use plenty of oil. Important, buy the jig for drilling the nipple hole, trust me, you will be glad you did. You will also need a bottom tap for the nipple hole
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I have one more question. The threads are now tapped. The drum threads are protruding into the barrel and I cannot understand how I am going to file them flush with the barrel without ruining the breach plug threads. The drum threads did not cut into the plug threads but are very close. A round file would need to pass over the plug threads to cut into and remove the drum threads protruding into the barrel. I did not fully tighten the drum flush with the barrel flat. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Take the drum out, file, reinstall, check, repeat as needed. If the barrel is breached properly I can't see how you could even touch the breech plug threads while filing on the drum inside the barrel (assuming you don't have the plug installed now)
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
You remove the drum and file the drum threads until flush with the barrel wall. A little at a time.
Walk
Walk
Slip a piece of copper tubing over your round file if you are worried about the breech threads. use a good sharp round file and take your time . Tighten the drum and file the drum threads to the same radius as the inside of the barrel. Check it with a patched jag to make sure it is right. Doing it this way,there is nothing to trap fouling.
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MI MAN
In my opinion, you do not have to file the end of the drum threads so they exactly match the bore in the barrel.
If you just shorten the threads by filing the end of the threaded part of the drum off until it's length is the same as the thickness of the barrel wall, that will be good enough. Even though that will form small areas at the top and bottom of the threaded end of the drum where the bore is moving away from it, when you shoot and clean the gun you (and the gun) won't notice it.
In my opinion, you do not have to file the end of the drum threads so they exactly match the bore in the barrel.
If you just shorten the threads by filing the end of the threaded part of the drum off until it's length is the same as the thickness of the barrel wall, that will be good enough. Even though that will form small areas at the top and bottom of the threaded end of the drum where the bore is moving away from it, when you shoot and clean the gun you (and the gun) won't notice it.
Do you think I will be able to get the drum threads started into the barrel threads. I am not sure there is enough room to clean up the threads on the drum. Thanks
If your barrel is like most muzzleloading barrels, you will have around .200 wall thickness where the drum is located so you should have about .200" worth of threads. That's a bit more than 3/16" worth so there is no reason the drum should not screw into the barrel.
If you filed the threaded end of the drum square with a good file, the thread might be difficult to get started into the threads in the barrel but, if you file a small chamfer (corner break) on that thread to get rid of the sharp edge and round or bevel it off just a little bit it should screw in without a problem.
If you filed the threaded end of the drum square with a good file, the thread might be difficult to get started into the threads in the barrel but, if you file a small chamfer (corner break) on that thread to get rid of the sharp edge and round or bevel it off just a little bit it should screw in without a problem.
When the drum threads are flush with barrel ID, take the drum out and countersink the end until it is almost all cone. This helps direct powder into the drum when you tip it and slap it alittle, Makes a difference.
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