Ever Wonder 'Bout Butter Lube?

P.S. Besides, It's not made by them and they are just repeating what was told by them from the Old Ox-Yoke..Ignorance is bliss :haha:

I aready have, they consider me the enemy. :shake:

Actually it is Abietic Acid. Its chemical structure is C 79.42% H 9.99% O 10.58% A widely available organic acid, prepared by the isomerization of rosin. Insoluable in water. soluable in alcohol, benzene, chloroform, ether, acetone, or carbon disulfide. I would suggest alcohol in cleaning. Commercial abietic acid made by heating rosin alone or with acids may be glassy or partly crystalline, usually of yellow color and melting as low as 85 degrees. USE: Manufacture of (ester gums, eg., methyl, vinal and glyceryl esters for use with laquers and varnishes. Manufacturing of "metal resinates", soaps, PLASTICS (wich is why they don't want you to use gun oil), because it will plasticize in the bore with the petroleum and heat. When the "blunderers" :blah: of previous Ox-Yoke owned it they advertised it as "safe enough to eat". I think that's where some of the posts on eating it is coming from. Not recommended. The oil of wintergreen is toxic and according to the Merck Index of Chemicals, Drugs, and Biologicals .10 ml can cause fatality. Bring a bag of potato chips on post If you're hungry. At the time, and I can tell you from experience, dumb and dumber thought the wintergreen oil was the same thing you put in Christmas cookies or breath fresheners...Go figure.

You seem well versed on this subject and it sounds[url] like...in[/url] spite of TC's statement that all the ingredients in Natural Lube 1000 are non-toxic, food grade rated, and biodegradable...that it's something that can harm, if not kill...it might be best if you write TC and bring it to their attention.

 

[roundball]

I aready have, they consider me the enemy. :shake:

Then my assumption would be that they don't put any stock in your position...and I only say that because of TC's well established and well publicized track record of being extremely cautious about everything else of theirs with respect to possible liability.

Their owners manual has become almost impossible to read because it has grown to the point that just about every paragraph in it is followed with a paragraph in red ink announcing cautions, disclaimers, etc.

Yet, their tubes of Natural Lube 1000 don't even carry the comment that's on just about everything in this day and age: "Keep out of reach of children".....Doesn't even mention "do not take internally".

Knowing how corporations work, they may have not reacted so you could see it, but behind the scenes I'd bet that anything you sent them was sent to the "legal department" for review of any liability position on it.

 

[Toomuch_36]

I have a red plastic container (taller than it is wide) of "Wonderlube" from maybe 20+ years ago. It was white and smelled of mutton tallow and didn't work for s**t (I always forget how to spell "spit"). It was an awful lube.

The old Wonderlube from the vintage you describe was considerably different from that of today. Yes, it did use tallow for a base and would go rancid after a time.

Toomuch
...........
Shoot Flint

 

I believe thats why Ox-Yoke folded. Between the shortcomings of the lube to begin with I believe they "bankrupted", I re-interate "Took the money and ran" and stiffed everyone before the wave caught up to them. I really feel sorry for Bob, the new owner, I pray it doesn't come back on to him. He's a great guy.

I aready have, they consider me the enemy. :shake:

Then my assumption would be that they don't put any stock in your position...and I only say that because of TC's well established and well publicized track record of being extremely cautious about everything else of theirs with respect to possible liability.

Their owners manual has become almost impossible to read because it has grown to the point that just about every paragraph in it is followed with a paragraph in red ink announcing cautions, disclaimers, etc.

Yet, their tubes of Natural Lube 1000 don't even carry the comment that's on just about everything in this day and age: "Keep out of reach of children".....Doesn't even mention "do not take internally".

Knowing how corporations work, they may have not reacted so you could see it, but behind the scenes I'd bet that anything you sent them was sent to the "legal department" for review of any liability position on it.

 

[roundball]

Don't know about any shortcomings with 'wonderlube' as I never used any...however, I did understand that Natural Lube 1000 was the same thing, made by Oxyoke, but marketed by TC under their different name...and NL1000 has been outstanding for me 15+ years...it's been my experience that problems people have with bore butter are self induced...it's not a product problem, it's a process problem.

 

Welp...It's always worked for me but I ain't married to it. I've been using it in two rifles for 10-15 years and honestly have been satisfied with it's performance. In my two most recent rifle purchases I have specifically not used it to see if there was any difference or improvement of one lube over another over a period of several years. I really don't see any difference as to one lube being better than the other in any regard.

I probably won't purchase another tube after this one is gone simply because I can make a lube that's every bit as satisfactory and historically accurate as well. This decision is because I do a lot more reenacting these days and I'm making a diligent effort to be as accurate as possible.

As far as any danger....well...my youngest kid is 31 and lives about 1000 miles away and my wife is a heck of a good cook. So ain't no kids gonna get into the stuff and I sure as heck ain't gonna eat it.

Vic

 

Yeah, You're exactly right. It is the same. As for "slick load by CVA. it is OEM'd by Ox-Yoke. A-lot of products are OEM'd by other manufacturers. The food industry is the biggest.

Don't know about any shortcomings with 'wonderlube' as I never used any...however, I did understand that Natural Lube 1000 was the same thing, made by Oxyoke, but marketed by TC under their different name...and NL1000 has been outstanding for me 15+ years...it's been my experience that problems people have with bore butter are self induced...it's not a product problem, it's a process problem.

 

Before using your lube be sure that the PH is satisfactory for steel. Another thing is you want to be sure that the inert ingredients don't contain sodium EDTA or caustics. Some things are safe and work well in one application and not well in others. I experienced some re-enactors this weekend that use coffee to clean their barrels. Coffee is an acid. You can drink it and it's safe, but not for steel.

Welp...It's always worked for me but I ain't married to it. I've been using it in two rifles for 10-15 years and honestly have been satisfied with it's performance. In my two most recent rifle purchases I have specifically not used it to see if there was any difference or improvement of one lube over another over a period of several years. I really don't see any difference as to one lube being better than the other in any regard.

I probably won't purchase another tube after this one is gone simply because I can make a lube that's every bit as satisfactory and historically accurate as well. This decision is because I do a lot more reenacting these days and I'm making a diligent effort to be as accurate as possible.

As far as any danger....well...my youngest kid is 31 and lives about 1000 miles away and my wife is a heck of a good cook. So ain't no kids gonna get into the stuff and I sure as heck ain't gonna eat it.

Vic

 

[Brawdhead]

Before using your lube be sure that the PH is satisfactory for steel. Another thing is you want to be sure that the inert ingredients don't contain sodium EDTA or caustics.

Ah-ha! That's why they claim that it's safe to eat. The beneficial effect of the EDTA chelating the lead out of your body outweighs the harm caused by the wintergreen oil building up in your liver! :rotf:

Dan

 

[Toomuch_36]

Welp...It's always worked for me but I ain't married to it. I've been using it in two rifles for 10-15 years and honestly have been satisfied with it's performance. In my two most recent rifle purchases I have specifically not used it to see if there was any difference or improvement of one lube over another over a period of several years. I really don't see any difference as to one lube being better than the other in any regard.

Vic

That's about right, it's been about 15 or so years ago that T/C, Ox-Yoke and Hogden went together to develope the current lube. The previous Ox-Yoke lube was made in partnership with "Young Country" and was a talow base, got to smelling realy bad (rancid) after setting around a while.

Toomuch
.......
Shoot Flint

 

[Lone Carabiner]

Ever tryed GO-JO, the hand cleaner? Has lanolin in it. Works 4 me, and it will dry out some if you leave you damp patches in the sun. Great to wipe the barrel with too, really brings the fouling outta thar. And it's cheap.

 

[gcebulka]

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to eat it? :winking:

Yup, I tried it. Nice and minty in a greasy sort of way.... :grin:

 

[Lone Carabiner]

I would like it if one of you 'chemists' would give a look-see at GO-JO creme hand cleaner, it has 'All acid' in it is the only acidic substance I could find and I haven't a clue what that is.
I just know this stuff works good, if there is any shortcoming it is that you don't want to eat it and very hot weather makes it a little runny, but I'm talking over 85 f. I've used lard/crisco (also gets runny when hot) TC maxi-lube, Improved maxi-lube, Natural Lube 1000, vaseline and some different petroleum type lubes but GO-JO is the best all around combo lube/cleaner I've used.
I wonder if it ain't akin to "Moose Juice" somehow. :hmm:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I'd spend the rest of my free time testing if I bit on every possible lube that someone suggested. Look at it this was: your own spit is one of the very best. Water will work. Beer, whiskey, Frank's Red Hot Sauce, Cholula , Tabasco, etc.

The concern is for what happens after the shot as well as how well it shoots. Presumably, we all clean our rifles/smoothbores very well "before the sun sets", but some do a better job of it than others. Even a simple rust test takes a month or two, and maybe six hours of time to prepare and set it up (depending on how many substances are being tested). And, as Deke rightly pointed out, there are dozens of metal compositions used in barrels, and humidity can effect the results.

If I come out and say "Go Jo" is the best stuff ever and then someone opens his cabinet and finds his $5,000 rifle looks like it was used as a tomato stake for a month I'd feel pretty bad.

I'm also not sure how common Go Jo was around 1770, or how many of the ingredients were available. Why bother using a new modern brew? We've got the original Lehigh back and Bore Butter is good stuff.

I've been using a product called "Badger Anti-Bug Balm" and it works GREAT for keeping the bugs off (NOTHING improves my shooting than not having gnats in my eyes, mosquitos on my arms and a deer fly trying to find my scalp). Also, swatting a bug when you're flying a hot R/C airplane can become expensive in a heartbeat. This stuff has citronella oil, cedar oil, lemongrass oil, rosemary oil, geranium oil, extra virgin olive oil, beeswax and castor oil. Now, if that ain't soundin like a dandy lube I don't know what does. :haha:

And I took a deer at 13 yards from the ground (with a recurve & cedar arrow) while weating it for early bow season a few years back.

 

[Bearbait2]

Mr. Stumpkiller,
We have the same thoughts about "Badger Anti-Bug Balm". If it ever stops raining long enough, will give it a try.
Best Wishes

 

[Lone Carabiner]

The only thing I'm going to use what's left of the tube of 'Natural Lube 1000' for is to smear over my slugs in my BP revolvers - which I clean with GO-JO after rinsing with very hot water.