Falling out f love with Ballistol

[mykeal]

Yep. It's been working for me for about a year. I tried it on two rifles and two revolvers that I rarely shoot, plus my regular shooters, and have had no problems.

 

[peashooterJoe]

Zonie, had the same results here in South Alabama.I use the BC sheath also, no rust either..PeashooterJoe

 

[Old40Rod]

I never had this problem with Break Free...

As far as I know, they are still making Break Free. You know it works. Unless you own stock in Ballistol, why not just go buy a bottle of Break Free and call it good? That way you can save your frettin' for something important like figuring out what type of rifle you are going to build next....

:wink:

 

[Stumpkiller]

After this, I switched back to my Birchwood Casey Sheath (now called Barricade) and I haven't seen any rust in any of my barrels since.

That's what I use. I still have a can and a half of Sheath on hand. Hope the Barricade is as good.

 

[sproulman]

on our BERETTA SHOTGUNS at skeet shoots the only lube you will see iS BREAKFREE CLP.

REASON IS DIRT/FOULING WILL NOT STICK TO PISTON..

in bore ,NO ONE EVERS USES IT.

only on the moving parts.

most use SHEATHS/REM OIL.

 

[brpc]

I really like the Dutch Schoultz dry patch method using 5 parts water and 1 part Ballistol as a patch lubricant. I had negative results using Ballistol as a rust preventative especially in the summer. Very humid here in the southeast. I switched back to plain old WD40 as a rust preventative several years back and have had no problems since.

 

[PreglerD]

Ballistol is the only stuff I use and before shooting I clean the barrel with a patch to remove the oil. In most cases the patch comes out rusty.

Regards

Kirrmeister

 

[Dave K]

I have been using Birddogs 6 patch grease and the lube for years already. I am sure there are others here as well that are using it. I use the grease for hunting the liguid lube for off the bench shoooting. Heck, just email Birddog 6 and order it, the same way you do when you by anything else. If you don't like it will sit in the cabnet the same as my other lubes I no longer use. But, you will like it,use it up and order more.

 

[DougMPhoto]

A friend of mine put me onto Ballistol. Smells like heck. He said you could drink it. DON'T!!!!

My understanding is that Ballistol has been reformulated and now has Petroleum Distillates in it. Used to be all natural back when...now it's not.

Have noticed rust and now spray with BC Sheath. Maybe I will try the Olive Oil...

Just one question...do you use the Extra Virgin or the standard Olive Oil?

 

[Swampman]

While extra vigin seems like it couldn't be a bad thing, I can't tell any difference.

 

[sproulman]

are you guys talking about OLIVE OIL as patch lube not storing lube.

 

[jbwilliams3]

I’m trying it as a rust preventative. I don’t used it for a patch lube. Thus far, I haven’t had rust. It’s been a few weeks. I tried it because I had heard of several folks who had good success. I will report on how well it does.

 

[jbwilliams3]

And once again, I checked the bore with multiple dry patches after one week of olive oil storage. I re-oiled and after three weeks there was no rust. I re-oiled again and will see how it holds up for a few more weeks.

 

[catman]

I use Dutch Schoultz dry patch method with Ballistol for shooting, but I won't use Ballistol for storage on my muzzleloaders. I use U.S. Military michine gun oil for storage on all my guns, never a problem.

 

[renovato]

I use Ballistol as a short term rust preventative and have had no problems with it, even under the humidity of evaporative cooling in summer. I don't trust it for long term rust proofing though. Anything that mixes with water, worries me when it comes to corrosion resistance. I prefer specialty products for that and I have had the best luck with CorrosionX of anything I've tried.

A few years back I had a plumbing leak in my work area and I hadn't had time to do any work in months, so it went unnoticed for a long time. Guns that had been protected with CLP were totally ruined by rust. Even some like an SKS that had a painted finish! I had my target .22 out there for a re-stock, and I had always used CorrosionX on it. It was still in mint condition. That convinced me right there.

It also outlasts most other oils I've tried, including CLP. I've had guns that don't get shot often, rust up with other oils after a year or two. Never a problem with CorrosionX. It doesn't evaporate off as fast.

It's sad, because I get CLP by the case for free, and would prefer to use it for everything. Makes a great lube though.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

"Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols Benzyl Acetate and an oil from vegetal seeds..."

Here's a link to the MSDS sheet:
http://www.baileysonline.com/msds_sheets/PDFs/ballistol.PDF

Yes I use Ballistol. Yes I get some brown sludge after storage when wiping before I shoot. Dropping a bore light down the barrel, it still is shiny clean, no pitting in evidence. I'll continue to use it.
Scott

 

[tjohnson56]

What kind of guns do you use the dry patch mix in, what are the ratio's of the mix and how do you soak the patch strips? Do you only dip the strips once and do you have a set amount of mix for x number of strips.

I am going to try this system and would like to hear some tips from someone who has some experience.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Dip your strips of patching cloth in a liquid mix- as much or as little of it as you need for the amount of patching you are treating. Then lay the strips out on wax paper on a flat board, or countertop, and use a rubber ink roller, or a rolling pin, ( A " Squeegee ", for cleaning windows will also work. Just don't press as hard as you would on glass. You are simply trying to distribute the fluid equally in the cloth, and move excess fluid to the side of the cloth so it can be recovered or disposed of. )to press the liquid evenly through out the strips. The excess liquid can be poured back into the mix bowl, or disposed of in your sink.

When you have done that, take the strips and lay them on a cookie sheet, and put them in a sunny window, or outside - say on the roof of the car in the sun to dry. Once they are dried, the material feels oily, but not excessive. You can then roll the strips up, tie them with strings or rubber bands, and put them in something like a tin, or plastic bag for storage. Take what you need for a day at the range, or in the field.

If you use a loading block, you can cut your patches on the loading block, and leave the rest of the material at home.

I would recommend carrying a bottle of your lube mix with you, so that you can " freshen " the mix in the patches, if they have been in the loading block very long. The wood in the block will absorb some of the oil and that can change the properties of the lubed patching.

Keep a used spray bottle from some other product and fill the bottle with your mix, so you can just " mist" the bottom of the PRB as it sits in the ball block, before you drive it down the barrel.

Don't hang the strips over a pole, or clothes line, as this will allow the oil to sink to the lower ends and leave the middle dry of oil. Lay the strips flat for drying. Work up your own mix formula.

I have heard everything used from 5:1, to 6:1, to 7:1, water to Ballistol. I suspect the difference has to do with the thickness of the patching in relation to the diameter of the ball used and the diameter of the bore, or due to variations in relative humidity from one area of this country to another, and from one season to another.

Putting some of the mix in a spray bottle and taking it with you to the range, or even in the car or truck when you go hunting just makes sense. If you feel the patch seems too dry compared to what you have been used to, spritz the remaining balls in your ball block before you go into the field. NO? :thumbsup:

 

[cptleo1]

I have using the stuff for years and really like it.

I have on occasion got a slight brown smear out of some bores but I don't think it is rust.

Two of my locks are highly polished and have never seen a speck of rust on them.

I have seen this smear on patches from my .458 and .270 and KNOW that corrosion is not an issue with either of thees weapons

FYI

 

[Bob J]

A friend of mine put me onto Ballistol. Smells like heck. He said you could drink it. DON'T!!!!

My understanding is that Ballistol has been reformulated and now has Petroleum Distillates in it. Used to be all natural back when...now it's not.

I contacted Ballistol to find out about any "reformulation". The formula has not been changed. Here is the reply from BALLISTOL:

HI Bob !!!

Ballistol has been Ballistol for over 100 years.
I've been here for 15 years, there has been no "re-formulation".

There are no "carcinogenic" ingredients in Ballistol.
According to the Consumer Protection Bureau, we can not claim "non-toxic" because if someone swallows Ballistol, vomits, & some Ballistol goes down to the lungs, aspiration could occur.

As for "petroleum distillates":
Nominally - yes
Practically - no
The base for Ballistol is a highly refined, medicinal grade mineral oil, a food grade product.
As a mineral oil, it is nominally a petroleum distillate; but it so refined, so far beyond petroleum, that practically it is not a petroleum distillate.

Ballistol can also be used as a animal grooming aid.

Thanx,
Doug Brown
WTC, Inc.
BALLISTOL USA
800 253 2460