fat french girl goes on diet

[fusil de chase]

While not a thorough and complete thinning it is obvious that everyone was right and it is easier to do this stuff with out the extra bulk.
still carrying some width at the bottom of the stock but I think you can see the line that represents the bottom.

I am getting close to inletting the lock and just wanted to check two things before I make a move that cannot be come back from:

1) Does the tail of the lock look right? I know everyone says to line it up with the center of the wrist, but I just do not know what that means.
Should the tail go up or down?

2) As laid out I have .160 between the bottom of the stock and the bottom of the RR hole. Is this sufficient?

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[oddball]

as an amateur builder(meaning me) I'd say your doing good. Its pretty rough yet.as would be expected, Keep going and tell us how it turns out

 

[Stophel]

That looks WAY better than the photos from the other day. And I see the ramrod in the right place now. :wink:

 

[fusil de chase]

Stophel, Thanks, big part of this post was hoping you would notice I took your appreciated advice.

Oddball, are you an old CGN poster? Seems alot of the best CGN'ers from the old days are over here.

 

[galamb]

The only other thing I would do before you start "cutting" is draw in your lock panel (pencil with a big eraser is your best friend).

That will give you a better perspective of what it will look like when you further take down the wrist and lower forestock.

Doing so may cause you to "tweak" the lock position a bit so that everything looks balanced.

 

[fusil de chase]

GaLamb,

Thanks,great advice I had not even considered the lock panel! Big save there.

graditude.

 

[54ball]

In the photo above it looks like the ramrod channel is a V with the widest point at the muzzle.

The ramrod should run parallel to the barrel. The web of wood between the barrel and ramrod should be the same thickness at the breech as well as at the muzzle.

 

[Stophel]

In the photo above it looks like the ramrod channel is a V with the widest point at the muzzle.

The ramrod should run parallel to the barrel. The web of wood between the barrel and ramrod should be the same thickness at the breech as well as at the muzzle.

With the web the same thickness, he would end up with a front end that was way too tapered. Especially with this stubby barrel. I'm sure that muzzle is not very big, and nowhere near the same size as the breech. The barrel tapers drastically, and it gets farther away from the rod as you go forward. The web at the front is gonna have to be bigger than at the breech. How much just depends on the size of the muzzle and how it looks. I'll guess as much as 1/4" at the muzzle... but I don't know the barrel dimensions. The rod needs to be close to parallel with the bore, MAYBE a little closer at the muzzle. A little taper (meaning the entire gun, barrel, stock and rod) is good, but too much looks horrible.

 

[Stophel]

Do you even have the ramrod hole cut yet? Judging by the extra thick wood in the fore end (above the entry), I would guess no. Do that before ANYTHING else. The ramrod position is probably the single most important thing in the dimensioning of the gun. It has to be ABSOLUTELY right before proceeding. Do not even think about inletting anything, or cutting off anymore wood (well, except for the excess in the fore end) until the rod hole is in and in the right spot. If it goes awry, there are remedies, but the location of the ramrod is as important as the barrel as to the positions of the parts and the bottom line of the stock, so get that rod hole done first and know PRECISELY where it is all the way back so you can work around it. :wink: THEN you can place your lock and determine the bottom line of the stock, etc.

 

[fusil de chase]

Stophel,

No it is not drilled yet. Thanks for the heads on up on that one. So next step is to get the groove cut and drill the hole.

I'll stop the lock panel tweaking and get set up to groove it/ drill it tommorow.

Sure hope it goes well and I am reporting success tommorow and not begging for a solution.

54, yeah I went down the same road you were thinking and initially layed it out with the rod following the barrel bottom, but the barrel just tapers way too much. Even to my eye it looked wrong. I can see how it would be right on a longer barrel but this barrel is like a wedge. 1.03 tapering to .70 athe muzzle over a mere 20 inches.

One nice thing about not following the taper is that it should let me get the tennon pins on the same elevation. There is as Stophel was saying alot more web in the fore section compared to hardly any aft.

 

[54ball]

Warning

Too many cooks cab spoil the soup.
Too many good directions will get you lost.

Heed the advice of Birdog6, Stophel and others many are far more experienced than I.

I will say this. Just like the directions reference, If you do not have a map, you may not be able to understand what the one giving directions is trying to tell you. Sometimes it's best to make your own map as you receive the directions.

So my advice right now in your project is for you to make that map. Paper,Pencil and Eraser allows you to accomplish on paper, the easier medium whats more difficult with Wood, Chisel Rasp and File.

Get you some plan paper or the brown paper rolls used to tape up auto windows or if you prefer a clean piece of smooth plywood. I think you already have some Tulle plans, if not get them.

Make a tracing of your gun as it is right now. Solve all the layout problems like ramrod placement barrel pins, final shape ect ect on the drawing. Then transfer that onto the wood.

In summary, get the layout complete and perfected full size on paper. Then finish your stock work.

 

[gunmaker43]

Those swelled breech round bbl. can be a problem when it comes to drilling the rod hole. To much web at muzzle & against the bbl. bottom @ plug. Go slow & make sure the rod groove is parallel to bbl. bottom, I drill in 2-3" and then drill a small hole down from bbl. chn'l. to check my depth. I have on a really tapered bbl. went ahead and cut the rest of the groove from the inside, lots are done that way. Even 200 yr. ago. You can then glue a "floor" plate over the hole if you think it needs it. On the tang: I think you could start the bend at the bbl. & plug junction, a little more than you have now, that will slim the wrist some so the lock tail is centered on a line fore & aft along the wrist side. Don't worry about the front lock bolt hole as long as it misses the rod--it can be anyplace on the front of plate, not necessarily centered on plate face. Hope this' somewhat clear...good luck--great start....Tom

 

[Vaino]

You gotta drill the RR hole and then position the lock. Otherwise...where does the front lockbolt go if the hole "runs out a bit"? Rudimentary procedure which you're not following.

You've never stated as to which , if any, "how to books" you have read and studied. Seems like the info from this "Forum" is what you're "flying by"? Don't think that's the proper way to build a MLer...self help is preferred......Fred

 

[fusil de chase]

ou've never stated as to which , if any, "how to books" you have read and studied.

Yes I did twice, ( insresposne to your accusations both times) You just do not seem to read beyond what you want to believe.

You sure have a tone that takes the fun out of visitng a forum.

 

[Vaino]

To be honest....judging from your questions, it doesn't sound like you've read and STUDIED the "how to" books....can/t find any references from you outside of Ravenshire's book which isn't one of the preferred "how to" books.

These "how to" books enumerate the "building order" and it along w/ the other pertinent info, will answer most of your questions.

After "studying" "Recreating the American LR" by Buchele and the other authors and "The Gunsmith of Grenville County by Alexander and Chuck Dixon's excellent book, you would be well on your way to establishing what has to be done and in what order the various operations should be done.

But...do what you will. Don't mind answering questions, but do mind when the poster hasn't done his "homework". Good luck w/ your endeavor.....Fred

 

[kaintuck]

:hmm:
hello up there in the frozen north!...

there are ALOT of things to learn about building these flintlocks.....and sometimes, a fella has to backup, and try again.....and, listen to the masters~ even if it hurts a little~ there are builders, and then there are BUILDERS....Fred and Keith are two here that I KNOW are the masters~ I have learned and will continue to learn from them, and others here.....
I wasn't getting very far asking my tom cat, all he does is stare at me......so i HAD to ask questions outside my shop.....and yup, stuck my foot in my mouth, and got my little feelings hurt~ but, :surrender:
I now have a few new friends, better rifles, and new goals to acheive...all to the forum, and new friends......

hang in there, dust your bench off and go at it again....remember, we ALL have black powder fever... :youcrazy:

 

[galamb]

:hmm:

I wasn't getting very far asking my tom cat, all he does is stare at me......

Cat must have his tongue :rotf:

(couldn't resist that one)

 

[kaintuck]

:hmm:

I wasn't getting very far asking my tom cat, all he does is stare at me......

Cat must have his tongue :rotf:

(couldn't resist that one)

SOMETIMES......when I ignore him, he can get pretty rowdy, he keeps me from working to hard, his break times are my break times too :shocked2:
But, he is good shop company :youcrazy:

 

[kaintuck]

That Is a nice piece of wood by the way!

 

[fusil de chase]

Yeah Joe picked it out for me at The Gun Works. Nice thing about short barrels is wood selection is alot better then for long ones. I got another blank from him for a 36 inch gun and it is pretty sweet for the dollar as well. I have bought a fair number of CF rifle blanks over the years and paid way more for less.

You know now that you mention it I think I'll call down there and ask him to pick out another
canoe gun stock for me.