Fg velocity compared to other granulations?

[Grenadier1758]

We are talking the volumetric equivalent of 110 grains of 2fg black powder being used to measure shot. That measure of volume will result in about 1 3/4 ounces of shot.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

There is 437.5 grains in one ounce.
'7000/16=437.5

110/437.5=0.2514285714285714

Barely 1/4 ounce of shot. Unless y'all are talking volumetric powder measurement applied to shot.

It’s usually equally volumes powder to shot. So yeah, it’s the volume of shot that will fit into a 110 grain volume, which is 1 3/4 oz.

 

[Historian]

Gentlemen, when using powder measures to measure payloads of shot charges, please remember that the size of the shot and shot type will greatly impact the actual weight that the measure will throw. While a typical 70 grain measure will throw 1 once of lead shot that is in reality for lead 6 and 7 1/2 shot or smaller. When you start shooting 5's and larger the actual weight will decrease because of the larger pellet size taking up more volume in the shot measure. Example: My 110 grain measure will only throw 1 3/8 oz of Bismuth 4's or only 1 1/4 oz of Bismuth 2's. My 75 grain measure throws 15/16 once of Bismuth 4's or 7/8 once of Bismuth 2's. This is just an example of how shot material and size can impact powder measures when used to measure shot charges. Good shooting guys.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Equal volumes is not the norm. Also called square loads. It's not the norm.
It's just the old maxim for the ratio of powder to shot measure. Not the ratio of shot to powder!
More powder to shot rarely works out well in muzzleloaders however using more shot to powder often works out well. Especially with 3f and finer

 

[Rock Home Isle]

For duck and goose loads, I premeasure the shot charges and put them into some cane containers that I've made.

 

[smo]

There is 437.5 grains in one ounce.
'7000/16=437.5

110/437.5=0.2514285714285714

Barely 1/4 ounce of shot. Unless y'all are talking volumetric powder measurement applied to shot.

Yes , 110 grn measure by volume.

 

[chiller]

1f black powder is mostly used in cannons like my old regiment's 3 pounder

 

[Historian]

Hey Brit I hear you sir. That is why I try to use a separate measure for shot which is usually an adjustable measure. I run it down for powder and run it up for my bismuth loads. I never really got good patterns with purely square loads. Even with my variant of the "Shkychief" load that I use. Kudos on the fine powder especially the 3Fg

 

[megasupermagnum]

I'm currently in the process of moving. In 3 weeks or so I plan on doing a test I've wanted to do for some time. I want to shoot my muzzleloading shotguns over the chronograph to determine just how much different things effect velocity.

I plan to use a 12 gauge, and a 10 gauge (technically 9 gauge). I do not have a 20 to test. I will compare loads of 3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg. I also want to test different wadding. Here is what I have charted to test.

Powder granulation: Only variable being powder granulation

12ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)

10ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)

Wad comparison: All with the same standard load, only variable being the over powder wad

.050" card wads, likely test 1 through 6 over powder, both 12 and 10 gauge

1/8" felt wads, likely test 1 and 2, both 12 and 10 gauge

nitro cards, likely test 1 through 3, only have 12 gauge

plastic wads, likely BPI MM steel shot cup, and a lead wad like a Win. AA, only have 12 gauge



I don't have any wasp nest to try. Any other ideas for common wads?

 

[Britsmoothy]

I'm currently in the process of moving. In 3 weeks or so I plan on doing a test I've wanted to do for some time. I want to shoot my muzzleloading shotguns over the chronograph to determine just how much different things effect velocity.

I plan to use a 12 gauge, and a 10 gauge (technically 9 gauge). I do not have a 20 to test. I will compare loads of 3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg. I also want to test different wadding. Here is what I have charted to test.

Powder granulation: Only variable being powder granulation

12ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)

10ga- 100 gr powder, 4 card wads, 100 gr volume shot, overshot (3Fg, 2Fg, and 1Fg Goex)

Wad comparison: All with the same standard load, only variable being the over powder wad

.050" card wads, likely test 1 through 6 over powder, both 12 and 10 gauge

1/8" felt wads, likely test 1 and 2, both 12 and 10 gauge

nitro cards, likely test 1 through 3, only have 12 gauge

plastic wads, likely BPI MM steel shot cup, and a lead wad like a Win. AA, only have 12 gauge



I don't have any wasp nest to try. Any other ideas for common wads?

Your not going to use that dodgy 9g are you...the ticking time bomb and....
No 4f test

 

[megasupermagnum]

Yep, I'll even have my face right on the stock when I pull the trigger.

I don't think I have any 4Fg. If I did, I'd only want to do reduced loads. I doubt anyone uses it for anything except priming powder anyway. I do have some Swiss 1Fg, but I figured a test with all red can Goex would be more meaningful.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Yep, I'll even have my face right on the stock when I pull the trigger.

I don't think I have any 4Fg. If I did, I'd only want to do reduced loads. I doubt anyone uses it for anything except priming powder anyway. I do have some Swiss 1Fg, but I figured a test with all red can Goex would be more meaningful.

I use something close to 4f. Its half way between 3&4. I set the measure to 3/4 the shot charge.
In .45 to .75. No worries.

 

[bud in pa]

A couple of years back after not being able to get what I thought a tight enough pattern with 2f or 3f I bought a can of 1f. Tightened up the pattern considerably. No problem with the tuna can. consistently got 7 to 10 pellets in the head and neck.

 

[smoothshooter]

Tuna can test is to assure killing power. If the shot penetrates yer good to go. If not I may try 2f (last time out I had only 3f). 1F was certainly different in recoil both degree and type. I am more concerned with pattern. I recall Brownbear (RIP) used to swear by it in his shotguns up in AK and always wanted to try it. IT WORKS (in this gun anyway LOL)

Penetration of one side of the can or both sides? Everyone always leaves out this bit of critical information?

 

[smo]

One side for mine...top had been cut off.


By hand

 

[JCKelly]

Shotguns both old and modern use a fast burning gunpowder (see p81, Roberts). Certainly not Fg.

Fg is for accuracy in rifles .38 cal & larger.

Might suggest you look at some older books, written when some people used these guns as a normal- if out of date - firearm. Such as
The Kentucky Rifle, Capt John G. W. Dillin, 1924 (best), - The Muzzle-Loading Rifle . . . Then and Now, Walter M. Cline copywrite 1942 - The Muzzle-Loading Cap Lock Rifle Ned H, Roberts copywrite MXMXL.
Roberts is an actual rifle shooter, I would judge this the most useful of them, for a shooter.
All old books.
In my admittedly cantankerous opinion rather little has been learned since then about shooting actual side-lock muzzle-loading rifles and shot guns, with real black gunpowder. Rather a lot has been lost, as can be seen by looking at questions asked on sites like this one.

 

[ord sgt]

The larger the kernel of powder, the slower the burn rate.

 

[azmntman]

Well I heard of FG used in a shot gun here for the first time years ago by one of our departed, BrownBear. He swore by it so I tried it (finally). Now I have yet to try FFG and the skychief load in my 20GA, I only reported excellent results with FG. I really don't care if it was meant for large caliber weapons, if it works best in my weapons I will use it. I do NOT miss the aching cheek bone, that I can say for sure.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Shotguns both old and modern use a fast burning gunpowder (see p81, Roberts). Certainly not Fg.

Fg is for accuracy in rifles .38 cal & larger.

Might suggest you look at some older books, written when some people used these guns as a normal- if out of date - firearm. Such as
The Kentucky Rifle, Capt John G. W. Dillin, 1924 (best), - The Muzzle-Loading Rifle . . . Then and Now, Walter M. Cline copywrite 1942 - The Muzzle-Loading Cap Lock Rifle Ned H, Roberts copywrite MXMXL.
Roberts is an actual rifle shooter, I would judge this the most useful of them, for a shooter.
All old books.
In my admittedly cantankerous opinion rather little has been learned since then about shooting actual side-lock muzzle-loading rifles and shot guns, with real black gunpowder. Rather a lot has been lost, as can be seen by looking at questions asked on sites like this one.

I impart agree except for the rifle bit.
1f and fg is for 1&1/2" bores and up.

Well I heard of FG used in a shot gun here for the first time years ago by one of our departed, BrownBear. He swore by it so I tried it (finally). Now I have yet to try FFG and the skychief load in my 20GA, I only reported excellent results with FG. I really don't care if it was meant for large caliber weapons, if it works best in my weapons I will use it. I do NOT miss the aching cheek bone, that I can say for sure.

In all sincerity you may have a gun fit issue.
I have never been hurt recoil wise from 3f or finer. Bessy use to get my attention with 2oz and 120gn of medium grade or 100gn of fine grade but it never hurt me.

 

[megasupermagnum]

Don't knock it till you try it. I have yet to anyone claim Fg patterns worse than FFg or FFFg. Just about everyone is pleasantly surprised by improved patterns.

No harm in trying it in rifles either. My TC Renegade loves Fg.