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Fiber Wads

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Wayne/Al

40 Cal.
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Messages
195
Reaction score
20
I have been shooting muzzleloading shotguns for a few years now. When I first got into it the best wad combination for my 12 Ga SXS Pedrsoli was the V.M.Starr method (2 cards over powder and 1 card over the shot)
Recently I have read about several folks that use .5 inch fiber wads. One wad over powder and 1/2 wad over shot.They claim good results.
I'm going to give it a try next time out. Just wondered if members here have tried it.If so what kind of patterns did you have?
Wayne
 
I played around with 1/2" "cushion" wads, in combinations with OS Cards. I was not happy with the patterns.

The heavy .5" fiber wads tend to follow the shot, and bump it after it leaves the barrel, causing " Donut Hole" patterns. You will be better off using smaller wads( 1/8") stacked, to make that 3/8" or 1/2" Wad you want to try behind your shot. Then as they leave the muzzle, they separate. Putting a hole with an awl through the wads, off-center, so that holes do not line up with the one next to it also helps them separate and fall out of the line of fire. The sooner they fall away, the better the patterns.

I have tried using, 2 OS CARDS( .10"), 3 OS cards, and 4 OS cards under a powder charge, and those thinner cards work fine.

Iron Jim Rockham came up with this " system" here, a couple of years ago, to use in his new, 20 gauge fowler, so that he only had to carry ONE "wad" in his pockets or bag when he was hunting. He put 4 cards under the shot, with a ball of waxy lube between the 3rd and 4th cards, then the load of shot, followed by 2 OS cards, to lock the cards and shot load in place and keep the shot from moving during a hunt. The benefit of using cards is that they are thin enough to BEND when fitting them down a CHOKED barrel, and then turn them when they have passed the choke.

I didn't have the waxy lube he could ball up, so instead, I used a greasy cleaning patch( Wonderlube) to run down the bore in front of the jag, as I was seating the OS cards on my shot load. The cleaning patch came out of the gun with my jag, and left the barrel from the OS cards to the muzzle greased. That prevents rust, softens the powder residue, and also greases the barrel so that the shot pellets, on the outer sides of the shot load, slide over the bore better, rather than rub lead off and get "flats" on the pellets. I found I got more pellets in my patterns out at 25 yds, lubing the barrel this way. When I cleaned my gun, I didn't find lead streaks in the bore, as I experienced without greasing the barrel. :surrender: :thumbsup:
 
I had problems with the fiber wads lubed and used as suggested by DGW ( card+fiber wad over powder and card over shot)when I first started.Sometime the fiber wad would hit the target like a slug.Knowing it had drove through the shot pattern on the way.
I will probably stay with Starr method or something semilar.
I enjoy playing around with the loads and trying something new now and then.
Thanks for the reply and have a good day.
 
Paul:
I used a greasy cleaning patch( Wonderlube) to run down the bore in front of the jag, as I was seating the OS cards on my shot load. The cleaning patch came out of the gun with my jag, and left the barrel from the OS cards to the muzzle greased.
Hope this is not too goofy a question. I like that idea a lot. Do you use a different "greasy patch" each time? I suppose so as it would probably come out dirty but I was wondering. You just carry a little container of prelubed patches, is that it?
Pete
 
All depends on the gun, some guns will shoot them and some won't. I'd probably never use them for over shot wads. and I'd probably never use them with out a nitro card over the powder. I use fiber wads to mainly carry lube.;
 
I have been using just one 1/8 inche hard card over the powder--seems to work ok..and sometimes i use self made paper cups--news print or index card depending on how hard I want it to be--what are all of your thoughts on using plastic shot cups..
 
Mr. Brooks--is that 1/8 hard layered card what you are calling a "Nitro card"..
 
Many of the guys I know who use shot use 1/2 of a fiberwad,they cut them after lubing as they don't crumble as bad then.
 
I cut the 1/2" thickfiber cushions in half(about 1/4" thick) and soak them in olive oil and then allow them to drain. I have used no cushion and it works very well for a tight pattern, but for continued shooting you will need to clean the bore to get rid of the caking in the bore. My experience with my guns has given me great success with the cushion only a 1/4" thick and lubed as I mentioned. If you are getting holes in your pattern when you use a full 1/2" thick cushion, it is because the cushion is staying with the shot stream. I don't have that problem with the thinner lighter cushion. If I was shooting only one shot, like in turkey hunting, I wouldn't use a cushion, for any other shooting, I wouldn't be without lubed cushion. A little expermenting will tell you the way that is best for you.
 
I have had my best groups when I "crumble" the fiber wad into small pieces right over the barrel and then push the pieces down. There is nothing solid to donut the pattern. I must confess I am not a big time shot shooter but this worked well for me this year with the few shots I fired.
:thumbsup:
 
Yes. I pre-lube cleaning patches for this purpose, and carry them, usually, in a small, "sandwich " size plastic bag. I could use a metal container for this work as well. I just haven't, to date. Tedd Cash products has a Brass or Steel "tin" about 2 1/2" in diameter that makes a good container for round cleaning patches. I have been using 3" cleaning patches that are square cut, and have not yet found a metal container make for them, yet.

I also carry a towel in my large pocket, or game pouch, to use to wipe my hands off. And, I carry a larger plastic bag in my hunting pouch to hold the used patches. Usually I will just use a plastic bag from a loaf of bread, or hotdog, or hamburger buns for this purpose, as it will be thrown out at the end of the day.

If I forget my "towel", I take a few sheet of paper towel off the roll I keep in the vehicle all the time, and put them in my pocket for field use. This keeps the equipment and ME cleaner during the hunt. I know of no natural source of the smell of rotten eggs in the area where I hunt, so limiting the amount of soot that gets on my gear, and my clothing, or hands, helps me get closer to game.

In the trunk, I carry a plastic bottle of water, to use to wash my hands on returning to the vehicle. If a dog is being used, I use the water to wash out his mouth and nose, when its dry and dusty, and to water both of us. Flushing the muzzle of a hunting dog improves its ability to pick up scent. In cold weather, that dog needs watering after every run, to keep its own body heat up. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
I am not sure that crumbling would accomplish what I am seeking to do. With a slightly larger than bore sized disk of a lubed cushion going down the bore, it lubes the bore and softens the fouling as it goes down. If I were to crumble the cushion, it wouldn't do that. But hey, if it works for you, do it.
 
having been a mediocre shotgunner these 47 years I don't believe I should be that worried about donuting a pattern. I also have to wonder just because a wad hit a paper at 25 yards whether the shot got there much quicker.

Back when I first reloaded shotgun shells all we used were 1/2 inch fiber wads and I never noticed a problem. I wonder if we over analyze these matters.

Being a novice to frontloaders I'm going to stick with my crisco soaked 1/2 inch wads for the time being
 
Yes, the shot gets to the paper faster than the wad, assuming the distance you mention. However, If you don't pattern your loads, you will know nothing about whether the load is causing your misses, or you are just a bad shot!

What I have found, verified by other members here, is that a heavy cushion wad behind the shot column tend to bump into the back of the shot as the shot leaves the barrel and hits the air, while the wad is still coming out the muzzle unconstrained, and riding in the draft, or " vacuum" behind the shot column. That draft is no different than what is seen and used by sports car racers at high speeds, but when the shot begins to string out, and spread, the draft ends with the shot. With the race cars, they remain solid and continue to create a draft as long as they are being run at high speeds.

If you play pool, the effect of the "bump" is not a lot different than when enough English(top spin) is put on a cue ball so that it rebounds and then hits the numbered ball a second time.The first time the cue ball hits a numbered ball you have some control over where that numbered ball goes. When the cues ball hits the numbered balls a second time, for instance on a break, Katy bar the Door! :shocked2: You have NO control on what direction that second hit will send the numbered ball.

The same things happens when the wad comes in contact with the shot, now out in the air, where its not constricted by the bore of your shotgun. The shots go everywhere, and mostly away from the point of impact.

The result is a " donut Hole " pattern.

The good news is that this can be fixed. I must assume that you joined this web site to learn something you don't already know. In this case, you can learn from other members here how to correct the problem. But first, You have to take the time, and effort, to find out if you are having the problem. Don't fix what ain't Broke! :rotf: :grin: :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, I've been using them soaked in crisco for several years now and haven't noticed any adverse effects. I like the lubing it does and can shoot in a dove field all day without having to worry about swabbing the bore.
 
chilidog

I was quite impressed with the crisco soaked wads in cleaning the bore and keeping the shooting going.

Having shot ML rifles some, getting that 3 or 4 th bullet down there without swabbing was damn near impossible, but I'm getting off thread.

Also beware of game with tuna cans on their heads. :wink:
 
I use the 1/2 fiber wads in my fowler. I soak them in olive oil and press them with a paper towel. When I load I break it into thirds and push them into the muzzle over a card. They seem to fly apart when they leave the barrel and not fly through the shot.
 
A Lot of opinions and observations about the effect of wads on shot pattern. I really enjoy getting everyones ideas
I went out yesterday and shot a few loads using fiber wads only. I put down .5" fiber wad over powder and half of a fiber wad over shot.I put crisco on the outside of the overpowder wad.I used 80 grains of 2F and the same amount of #6 shot by volume. The patterns were pretty good and on the cly bore barrel they were a little better than what I have been getting with shot cards.

I think the differnce was the wads were not soaked with lube and were light enough to fall away with out effecting the pattern.
Anyway thinks for your input everyone. Just do what ever works for you and your gun and enjoy .
 
Rubbing any solid lube, like Crisco, on a cushion is a lot different than "soaking" the wad in oil or crisco. That does leave them lighter, and they do tend to fall away from the shot on leaving the barrel. You generally get better pattern. However, the best patterns we have are from using thinner wads, like the 1/3 cushion wad described above. If you buy 1/8" vegetable fiber wads, dip them in a liquid lube, then dry them on paper towel, or newspaper, before using them, you also get improved patterns, and most importantly, CONSISTENT PATTERNS. :hatsoff:
 

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