Finishing Stock with Pure Tung Oil

[FlinterNick]

Hi I’m finishing a stock with Pure aged tung oil by Milkpaint, mixed with 5050 citrus solvent. The drying time for this is very long, anyone know when its a good point to add additional coats ?

 

[oldwood]

Some time in the early 1980's , I was experimenting with finishes. I built a Jaeger rifle with a maple wood stock for me to hunt with. Polymerized Tung oil looked promising as a stock finish . I built up 10 coats of tung oil by virtually soaking the stock inside and out using the sticky stock , "wipe-on-wipe off" method. Let everything harden up through Summer and by m/l deer season , took to the woods. That year was a damp one here in Pa.. One rainy damp day , the tung oil finish just disappeared into the leaves , and I never used tung oil as a final finish again. On an earlier adventure , I experimented with pure unpolymerized tung oil and found it to be even less waterproof. All tung oil soakes nicely into wood , but it wasn't what I wanted as a finish in the climate in Pa.. ..........oldwood

 

[Robby]

drying pure tung oil

 

[Col. Batguano]

Try a drop or two of Japan Drier in your mixture. That should speed it up. Some of those oil-based finishes just never dry. I remember going to the Mary Rose museum in Plymouth, and some of those tar-soaked ropes were still supple, 350 years later.

 

[GANGGREEN]

Not sure if this is permitted or not, but I watched this several weeks ago and enjoyed it, probably learned something as well.

The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish - YouTube

 

[Dave Marsh]

GG interesting video. Very informative. Thanks for posting.

 

[rafterob]

I did not research much but used Tung oil one time. I did not like the long drying time. I have used BLO ever since.

 

[Robby]

I use 'pure' Tung oil and an all natural 'pure' Tung oil spar varnish on everything and have no problems.
Robby

 

[Celticstoneman]

I finished my first stock with tung oil in 1973 and it is still handsom after all these years.

 

[SDSmlf]

Hi I’m finishing a stock with Pure aged tung oil by Milkpaint, mixed with 5050 citrus solvent. The drying time for this is very long, anyone know when its a good point to add additional coats ?

I have finished over three dozen gunstocks with Tung oil. For the Tung oil process I use, I start with at 50% or more mix of Stoddard solvent (mineral spirts) with pure Tung oil. I apply a generous coat and let the stock sit for 30 minutes or so, then wipe ‘dry’ with a rag. Note, be careful with how you dispose of any Tung oil soaked rags, they will spontaneously combust. I will repeat the about process every hour or so, until the wood doesn’t seem to be absorbing any more Tung oil, up to four or five times the first day. Each coat takes but a few minutes to apply, and the wiped down goes quick. The following day I’ll repeat with one or two coats. The wood will not soak anywhere near as much Tung oil as on day one. I’ll skip adding any coats on day three, then apply one or two coats on day four. If the finish looks good the next day, I’m finished, just have to let it full cure, which takes three to four weeks, though you can handle the stock well before that. Also learned not to put the stock out in the sun before cured, or some of the oil will bubble up onto the surface.

I have finished numerous stocks with this process and find it to be a durable and forgiving finish. It doesn’t blister or chip like some poly coats when scratched. You just apply a bit more Tung oil to the damaged area and it will blend right in, adds to the wood’s character. I started using Tung oil on Milsurp stocks that are up to 100 years old or so. These are competition guns that get used and abused in all types of weather. At times from rapid firing and the hot sun the wooden forearms get too hot to hold. The Tung oil finish comes through unscathed.

Here is a photograph of TC stock finished with Tung Oil 10-15 years ago. It has seen a lot of time in the woods and on the range. Any scratches, nicks or dings are covered with light touch up coats every so often and just add to the stock’s character

There is concern that some people may be allergic to Tung oil, as the US military decided years ago to stop using it because of than concern. Tung oil, by the way, comes from the seeds of tree’s fruit (like the seed in a peach pit for example), and are not nuts. In a British study of people with tree nut allergies, none were found to have a reaction to refined Tung oil. A Canadian study found the risk of allergy to Tung oil to be about 0.1% of the population.

 

[SDSmlf]

Not sure if this is permitted or not, but I watched this several weeks ago and enjoyed it, probably learned something as well.

The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish - YouTube

The expert in the video kind of lost me when he referred to the oil from the nuts of the Tung tree. Tung ‘nuts’ from the tung tree are not true tree nuts. They are the seeds of the fruit (drupe) like the seed inside a peach pit.

 

[TGJaeger]

Nick,
im really confuse. Why would you mix the tune oil and lemon solvent?

 

[SDSmlf]

Nick,
im really confuse. Why would you mix the tune oil and lemon solvent?

To thin the Tung oil so it absorbs easily and quickly into the wood. I use Stoddard solvent (mineral spirts), not the odorless stuff you find in a plastic bottle at Lowe’s or WallyWorld. The citrus solvent, which I have not tried, is supposed to work well with out the lingering odor you have with mineral spirits.

 

[TGJaeger]

Hi SD,
Thank you for your response! Every time that I’ve tried to use thinners, with natural oil, other than to improve absorption quality, I’ve wound up with a finish that was pretty soft and not very durable. If I soak the wood with tung or linseed oil prior to using a polymerized finish, I get a more durable finish. And, the wood maybe more moisture resistant and less apt to warp, but I’m not certain it’s worth the trouble. I’ve just been using several coats of Permalyn and have been happy with it.

 

[FlinterNick]

Nick,
im really confuse. Why would you mix the tune oil and lemon solvent?

Its the solvent that’s offered by the company that makes the tung oil. Milk paint. See below.

I’m using their dark tung oil.

https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/citrus-solvent/

 

[rickpa]

I've used two types of finish in past years. First one is 1 1/2 oz BLO, 1 oz Turpentine, 1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar. Second is from Smart Dog's tutorial on the ALR forum. 25% tung oil, 25% polyurethane varnish, 50% mineral spirits. I've used this finish on my last two rifles. Do a search on the ALR for tung oil finishes for more information or click this link. Tung oil question.

 

[Henry Miles]

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil?

 

[GANGGREEN]

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil?

Yes.

 

[FlinterNick]

This is the actual project, is a Brown Bess Stock. I’m up to 800 grit wet dry paper and the 2nd coat on 800 grit, I’m gonna work up to 1,000 and stop there see how it looks. So far the grain is mostly sealed, just some porous areas around the butt and lock area Need to be hand rubbed I think.

 

[FlinterNick]

I've used two types of finish in past years. First one is 1 1/2 oz BLO, 1 oz Turpentine, 1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar. Second is from Smart Dog's tutorial on the ALR forum. 25% tung oil, 25% polyurethane varnish, 50% mineral spirits. I've used this finish on my last two rifles. Do a search on the ALR for tung oil finishes for more information or click this link. Tung oil question.

I’ll have to give that a try, I’m making an 1817 common rifle next.