Finishing Techniques

[CascadeRob]

Good morning. I had a question regarding people’s methods for finishing wood, and even metals. Now I know everyone has their method and ways of doing things but I would just like to see if there are ways to maybe end up getting better results. I’ve put together two Kibler rifles, and one with iron nitrate with Permalyn Sealer. And the other with Jim Kiblers Lancaster Maple Stain, and Permalyn sealer. Both methods I used maroon Scoth Brite pads to apply the stain, and they turned out great but I have heard of cotton swabs or even using your hands? So the morale of the story is, I picked up a hawken kit, and am wanting to maybe try a different way. I was thinking of using Homer Danglers Dark stain with Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, and apply the Tru Oil with my hands? Thoughts? Comments?

 

[CascadeRob]

Good morning. I had a question regarding people’s methods for finishing wood, and even metals. Now I know everyone has their method and ways of doing things but I would just like to see if there are ways to maybe end up getting better results. I’ve put together two Kibler rifles, and one with iron nitrate with Permalyn Sealer. And the other with Jim Kiblers Lancaster Maple Stain, and Permalyn sealer. Both methods I used maroon Scoth Brite pads to apply the stain, and they turned out great but I have heard of cotton swabs or even using your hands? So the morale of the story is, I picked up a hawken kit, and am wanting to maybe try a different way. I was thinking of using Homer Danglers Dark stain with Birchwood Casey Tru Oil, and apply the Tru Oil with my hands? Thoughts? Comments?

I apologize I just saw the “WorkBench” section thread, if I need to move this I certainly can.

 

[rich pierce]

I commonly apply finish with my hands. Stains, not so much.

 

[CascadeRob]

I commonly apply finish with my hands. Stains, not so much.

Okay. What do you use to apply the stains with? And do you use your bare hands or latex gloves?

 

[OldNo7]

If you want a low-gloss finish instead of glossy -- use B/C's "Genuine Oil", which is a new satin-finish version of TruOil.

I've never seen it in any retail shops, but have gotten it from ebay. It goes on just like TruOil, protects the wood just as well, and looks great. "If that's the sheen you want", that is.

Old No7

 

[CascadeRob]

If you want a low-gloss finish instead of glossy -- use B/C's "Genuine Oil", which is a new satin-finish version of TruOil.

I've never seen it in any retail shops, but have gotten it from ebay. It goes on just like TruOil, protects the wood just as well, and looks great. "If that's the sheen you want", that is.

Old No7

Unfortunately I already ordered the Tru Oil since I heard such good things about it. I would like a “low gloss” look. I think if they get too glossy they look fake or plastic looking even. Hopefully I don’t get that? But of the guns I’ve seen with it on, it’s the look I desire.

 

[CascadeRob]

Unfortunately I already ordered the Tru Oil since I heard such good things about it. I would like a “low gloss” look. I think if they get too glossy they look fake or plastic looking even. Hopefully I don’t get that? But of the guns I’ve seen with it on, it’s the look I desire.

Okay so I ended up buying the BC Genuine Oil just in case. Has anyone had success with this product?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Tru Oil needn’t be shiny, this is one I did this spring. Just rub it on and as it drys rub just a bit more to dull the shine.
68E83786-8D68-4762-85E4-2585FF10C917 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[CascadeRob]

Tru Oil needn’t be shiny, this is one I did this spring. Just rub it on and as it drys rub just a bit more to dull the shine.
68E83786-8D68-4762-85E4-2585FF10C917 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Beautiful! That’s exactly the look I’m after! Thank you. Are you or have you tried using 0000 steel wool inbetween coats?

 

[Phil Coffins]

I don’t on maple, the key to Tru Oil is put it on very thin. A few spots made with your finger and spread out briefly then let dry. This way you can put on two or three coats in a day.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Tru-Oil and Permalyn are finishes that you put "on" the wood rather than "in" the wood. They look nice & are easy to apply but are not very durable & are harder to touch up. For a quality finish it's better to use an oil designed for hand rubbing in to fill the pores by wet sanding the oil. I use a hand brewed oil called Slacum oil (the recipe is on-line) or an oil called Arrow Oil by Miracle Products Inc. They both are BLO based with hardeners, dryers, & waxes in the mixture. Both can be made to be glossy or satin. Apply with fingers or a soft cloth when done with the wet sanding stage. The skill to do it right & get the look you want will not be obtained until you have done about 3 or 4 dozen stocks & made all the necessary learning curve mistakes. Just use what you feel comfortable with & get the feel for that product & any finish will be OK. If you don't like it, just strip it & go again! Good luck!

 

[yellowhammer]

I'm still a neophyte, but for me the revelation was saturating the grain with whatever brand finish you select, then cutting back thru the gloss and acne after drying, with either 400-600 grit wet or dry, or 0000 steel wool, wet with mineral oil. Then hand-rubbing super-thin finish coats like Phil Coffins describes. Prior to this method I was never able to achieve that smooth satiny effect.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Tru-Oil and Permalyn are finishes that you put "on" the wood rather than "in" the wood. They look nice & are easy to apply but are not very durable & are harder to touch up. For a quality finish it's better to use an oil designed for hand rubbing in to fill the pores by wet sanding the oil. I use a hand brewed oil called Slacum oil (the recipe is on-line) or an oil called Arrow Oil by Miracle Products Inc. They both are BLO based with hardeners, dryers, & waxes in the mixture. Both can be made to be glossy or satin. Apply with fingers or a soft cloth when done with the wet sanding stage. The skill to do it right & get the look you want will not be obtained until you have done about 3 or 4 dozen stocks & made all the necessary learning curve mistakes. Just use what you feel comfortable with & get the feel for that product & any finish will be OK. If you don't like it, just strip it & go again! Good luck!

I use Tru Oil in a number of ways to include a sanded in to fill the pores high gloss finish. Early in my training other products were tried and each had their merits. Long ago I settled on Tru Oil as it gives a predictable result and has proven to be durable and repairable. I still try other things but have come back to Tru Oil each time. The only magic is how it’s used.
IMG_0500 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[CascadeRob]

I use Tru Oil in a number of ways to include a sanded in to fill the pores high gloss finish. Early in my training other products were tried and each had their merits. Long ago I settled on Tru Oil as it gives a predictable result and has proven to be durable and repairable. I still try other things but have come back to Tru Oil each time. The only magic is how it’s used.
IMG_0500 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Yeah, that is a very nice outcome. When I used Permalyn sealer I had a heck of a time getting it to dry, and not be tacky. Granted it was probably my doing by applying too much, but I am learning. I also got two different outcomes, one very Matte finished and the other semi-glossed. Now is anybody waxing after BC Tru Oil? Never heard of this but saw it on older posts.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I don't wax.

 

[yellowhammer]

I don't wax.

I have never like waxes on gun stocks, either. Tried it last week with Turtle Wax paste from Autozone. Dusty dirty sort of affect, with those dry remnants like you get on your car in the nooks and crannies that you cant get out. THEN I read the instructions (famous last words) and it said "not recommended for wood". I wiped it off with mineral spirits. Not sure what people are getting out of it.

 

[rich pierce]

Okay. What do you use to apply the stains with? And do you use your bare hands or latex gloves?

I apply stain with a folded up piece of lint free cloth maybe 1” square. I apply finish with naked fingers after the first coat which I brush on. Many techniques work. No magic.

 

[CascadeRob]

I have never like waxes on gun stocks, either. Tried it last week with Turtle Wax paste from Autozone. Dusty dirty sort of affect, with those dry remnants like you get on your car in the nooks and crannies that you cant get out. THEN I read the instructions (famous last words) and it said "not recommended for wood". I wiped it off with mineral spirits. Not sure what people are getting out of it.

Ooo. Noted, yeah I never heard of doing that until I read a few people did. I don’t plan on it either

 

[CascadeRob]

I apply stain with a folded up piece of lint free cloth maybe 1” square. I apply finish with naked fingers after the first coat which I brush on. Many techniques work. No magic.

Sounds good. Thank you for the response. I used some foam brushes and it worked great but left behind little pieces of shiny foam all over my stock, so I need an alternative method. I’ll try the rags!

 

[sqqy14]

After multiple coats of tru oil, I've rubbed it back with rottenstone and get a smooth satin finish.