First Attempt At Moose Milk

[NEW222]

So, tonight I made my first batch of Moose Milk using water soluble cutting oil. I made a half batch as a trial run.
2 oz water soluble cutting oil
1/2oz Murphy Oil Soap
3 1/2oz 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (all I had)
8 oz bottled water

And here is the result. I am hoping that someone could chime in please and tell me if this at least looks right. I did not make the other one with castor and witch hazel as I read that if a bunch of patches were made that they would turn the cloth black. Not wanting that, I made this version. Also, is there a way to tell if this lube I made is good or not by soaking a patch or two? Thank you in advance. I should add that this picture was taken immediately after making it and I had shaken it up really good to mix the stuff up.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Looks OK.

Witch hazel & castor oil version will NOT turn cotton patches black. I have used it many, many years. I can show you six year old patching strips I have as a curiosity that still look like they did when fresh.

Most of what I am still using now is from dips I did three years ago and stored in Zip-Loc bags. ;-)

 

[NEW222]

Ok. Thank you for clarifying that. I had read it online somewhere, and copied the image for the recipe and is where I had read that. But with someone very knowledgeable in this area, I will believe it and try to make that version tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

[rodwha]

Seems a pretty fair amount of patch lube. If one were doing a lot of shooting, say 100 shots a month, about how long would that much last?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Heck in 1995 I was taught that Moose Milk was equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Hydrogen Peroxide, and 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. No water needed.

I never saw an advantage over a barrel that I had fired live, with swabbing the barrel with spit at every second or third shot, compared to a quart of water with a drop of dishwashing liquid added.

I did notice a huge advantage when cleaning a barrel where two dozen + blanks had been fired through a musket during a barrel reenactment. There were an equal number of guys who swore by windshield washing fluid for the same situation, instead of the Moose Milk.

LD

 

[cowboysteve]

One thing you forgot. You need to add a couple of drops of blue food coloring to give it that pretty blue color that Moose Milk usually is.

 

[Zonie]

Just in case you don't know, Stumpkiller is the guy who invented the Castor oil and Witch Hazel patch lube.
He knows whereof he speaks.

I've used it for years and never known it to turn patches any color at all until the patch is shot from a gun.
Then I've noticed it did get black because it wiped off the fouling from the previous shot on its way out of the barrel.
Nothing wrong with that, I say.

 

[jrmflintlock]

I just started using Stumpkillers recipe with Castor oil and so far I like it!

It really makes sense for cleaning in that the oil component will help keep rust away. At least that's what I think anyways!

In my new .54 shooting 90 grains of fff I shot 20 shots without having to wipe in between loads.

 

[NEW222]

Nice. Great info and knowledge learning here. I also appreciate the feedback towards my question. Which does indeed bring up a question that may have jokingly been answered a couple of posts ago. While at work today I was honestly wondering about food coloring added to my mixture shown in the first post here. Just wanted to add it so I can see if my patches are both equally and or evenly coated with my Moose Milk.
Thanks again.

 

[NEW222]

Ok. So I just made a 1/4 batch of Stumpy's Moose Milk with castor, Murphys Oil Soap, witch hazel, isopropyl (99%), and bottled water. Here it is. I am glad I can at least try both out to see which I like, or at least I will have an option. Now to make the Moose Snot! Just cant justify the $30/lb minimum for beeswax!

 

[NEW222]

And again sorry, but can I add a drop of food coloring to this mix as well just so I may tell if it is saturated evenly on my patches? Thank you.

 

[Stumpkiller]

$30 a pound!
www.beeswaxfrombeekeepers.com

$8 a pound and it's beautiful (I get 5# at a time)

 

[NEW222]

Yeah, welcome to Canada. That was the price at two craft stores locally. I have a wanted post up on local website to get the 2 ounces required. As much as i would love to make it, I can buy the TC stuff for the same price, and maybe cheaper by time I get the castor oil. I am also now looking at the 'Crisco / Olive Oil ' mix instead. Just doing some reading. But between both of the Moose Milk recipes I just made, I should be fine for a while, as I may shoot 100 prb next year.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Keep looking for beeswax....(internet & local bee keepers) A little beeswax goes a long way...I wouldn't be caught dead with out it. It has many uses.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I usually buy in bulk off of eBay in the Spring around February or March, and my stuff usually comes out of Michigan. I find the best deals on bulk wax often come with free shipping.

LD

 

[Kansas Jake]

X2 on Clyde's suggestion. Most areas have local beekeepers who will sell you bees wax for much less than craft stores. On the up side you are supporting a local bee keeper who's bees help with pollenating local crops and flowers.

 

[Jensen]

I think I may have gone overboard. I just made 64oz of Moose milk following Stumpy's recipe exactly. I filled two 32oz Nalgene bottles with it. I'm thinking that may last a while.

 

[NEW222]

Not really. Just shoot more! :grin:

 

[Black Hand]

I am also now looking at the 'Crisco / Olive Oil ' mix instead.

Buy a pound of lard from your local store to use as lube. Nothing to mix, nothing to order and you can use it when baking pies too...

 

[Crewdawg445]

Moose milk, bore butter, ballistol... tried it all.

Best yet, spit. Free!

I also like mink tallow, the real stuff. Not downing moose milk because I do have a small batch made up. But 99% of the time it's so much easier popping a patch in the mouth.