First Black Powder Handgun Suggestions

[Jackpot11]

I want to get into black powder because I heard it was cheaper to shoot than cartridge guns. I've decided I want a percussion cap revolver but there are so many from $150 to $1000 but considering im in high school my original choice was the Pietta 1851 Confederate Navy Revolver. What is everyone's opinion on Pietta for a starter.
ff Also what was your first Black powder pistol and what do you recommend.

 

[bubba.50]

the confederate revolver has a brass frame. nothin' wrong with it as long as ya use reason & shoot mild loads in it. but, for only a few bucks more you can get it in steel frame which is much more durable.

my first blackpowder pistol was a butt-ugly single-shot cva that shot about 5 feet high at about 15 or 20 yards. currently I have 3 pietttas. an 1860 army 44(actually 45cal), 1851 navy also 44(45)cal with the barrel bobbed to about 3 inches, and what cabelas calls an 1862 army police in 36cal.

 

[cynthialee]

My first I ever shot was an 1860 I think. Been so long and the names and numbers were not important to me as a kid...
The first I ever owned? An 1851 .36
Favorite: 1851 fantasy .44
The one I wish I never got rid of: My Dragoon first model. Loading lever dropping bugged me. Should have just put a rubber band on it.

My personal opinion on what a greenhorn should start with?
Well that depends on how green is green...
If it is a person who has never had any exposure to these types of guns: A simple single shot side lock, preferably a percussion gun.
For the person with black powder experience but no handgun experience: Any of the Colt revolvers from 1851 and on. The Paterson and Dragoons are not a greenhorn guns.

If you are buying a revolver get a Pietta or Uberti. For a brand new gun made within the last 5 years or so, get a Pietta, if the gun is older, Uberti is the way to go.
These things change over the years...

Now I do not suggest an orphan gun if it is a revolver as the parts are too much a PITA to get ahold of.
An orphan sidelock isn't as difficult to fix, so I don't see them as a problem.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Save your bucks and get a steel frame. As stated above, they are only a few dollars more and are much stronger and a a bit more durable.

I would suggest the 44 Pietta 1858 new model army with a steel frame. They run on sale at Cabelas for around $200. Easy for a newbie to take the cylinder in and out.

The revolvers are a PIA to clean properly and require a patient take down to do the job thoroughly. Learn to do it properly and a set of gun screw drivers is an essential.

 

[necchi]

Well young man, there is a learning curve, not a tuff one but it's there.
They all work just fine as long as you don't expect to hot rod the thing (heavy loads) or expect to be able to shoot real fast like they do in Hollywood movies.
Ya can't "fan" the hammer an trigger like they do,
They are a lot of fun!

Just keep reading stuff here and a lot of folks will come around an help ya out, :wink:

 

[AZbpBurner]

It's largely a Colt vs Remington choice for your first Cap & Ball revolver.

In 1969 my Dad brought home a Navy Arms (Uberti) 1861 Colt Navy. It was loads of fun to shoot, accurate once you got used to the sighting arrangement, and not a big deal to clean (my job as a kid).

Decades passed, and I decided to get an 1858 Remington. One of the Piettas on sale from Cabelas. After all those years of practical experience with the Colt, the Remington is even more fun to shoot, and much easier to clean and reassemble. I have Remingtons in both .44 and .36 cal, and would be hard pressed to decide on a favorite. Both are incredibly accurate.

Of course I've also acquired more Colts along the way, too, but for the first, you can't go wrong with a Pietta 1858 of either caliber.

Cabelas often has sales on their c&b revolvers, and often $5 or even free shipping.

 

[Coot]

As others have noted, a steel frame gun is well worth the few extra bucks that they cost over brass. If possible, I would suggest that you hold both an 1851 Colt navy model and an 1858 Remington & pick the gun that best fits your hand. Since you say shooting costs are a concern, a .36 will use less powder and less lead per shot than a .44. With ANY BP gun, a good cleaning routine is essential. I will also second the suggestion to get a set of gunsmith screwdrivers. Buggered up screw slots on a gun are a sign of abuse to me. Good shooting with whatever you decide upon.

 

[Roguedog]

Another thing to consider is how cheap is cheaper? I did a little math the other day and here is what I came up with in shooting in my Pietta 1860 Army.

1 Pound of Powder = approx. $25
1 pound = 7000 grains
(Blackpowder is measured by volume, not weight, but it works out pretty close and my figures are approximate.)
7000/30 grains per shot = approx. 230 shots
$25/230 shots = approx. 10 cents per shot

.457 cal roundballs = approx. $10/100 = 10 cents per ball

Percussion caps per 100 = $8/100 = 8 cents per cap

All told, It costs me approximately 0.28 cents per shot to fire my cap and ball revolver.

Now of course, you can scrounge for lead and cast your own balls. You can also buy powder in bulk and get it cheaper than $25, all which would reduce you cost per shot but the figures I used above are just approximate. Different variables apply. But in the end, it is not really cheaper for me to shoot my cap and ball than it is my centerfire pistols since I can reload many times for less than 0.25 cents per shot.

Just some food for thought. At any rate, cap and ball revolvers are a blast and I think everybody should have one.

Jeff

 

[Jackpot11]

Thanks everybody for the input I'll try holding as many as I can to see what fits the best.

 

[Alden]

Cheaper, yes, because it's slower anyway...

Usually I'd say the Rem. New Model Army. But you like what you like. If that style speaks to you then go for it! Whatever you get will be historical, fun, and will make you a better shooter.

Whenever you have fun, kid, be safe.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

as far as cost per shot, My powder was $21.00 per pound last spring. 18 months ago, I bought 2,000 Italian brass No. 11 caps for $4.50 a thousand. I cast my own with a second hand mold. I use automotive light weight lithium grease over the ball which is $5 a pound and will last for over a thousand shots. My cost is much cheaper, but I have been at this for 50 years and can stock up when I find a bargain. For instance, pure lead was purchased for 8 or 9 cents a pound for 1&3/4 ton 30 years ago. Still have about a half ton.

 

[Robert Allen]

Another thing to consider is how cheap is cheaper? I did a little math the other day and here is what I came up with in shooting in my Pietta 1860 Army.

1 Pound of Powder = approx. $25
1 pound = 7000 grains
(Blackpowder is measured by volume, not weight, but it works out pretty close and my figures are approximate.)
7000/30 grains per shot = approx. 230 shots
$25/230 shots = approx. 10 cents per shot

.457 cal roundballs = approx. $10/100 = 10 cents per ball

Percussion caps per 100 = $8/100 = 8 cents per cap

All told, It costs me approximately 0.28 cents per shot to fire my cap and ball revolver.

Now of course, you can scrounge for lead and cast your own balls. You can also buy powder in bulk and get it cheaper than $25, all which would reduce you cost per shot but the figures I used above are just approximate. Different variables apply. But in the end, it is not really cheaper for me to shoot my cap and ball than it is my centerfire pistols since I can reload many times for less than 0.25 cents per shot.

Just some food for thought. At any rate, cap and ball revolvers are a blast and I think everybody should have one.

Jeff

Shooting a .36 is cheaper than shooting a .44.

If you only order 1 lb of powder, the 'hazmat' shipping fee will cost you more than the powder. If you and other shooters get together and order 25 lb or more then you won't notice the 'hazmat' fee as much since it is the same for shipping 25 lb as for 1 lb.

 

[Poor Private]

Still cheaper than firing a cartridge Colt.45: I use them in my Remy- a box locally when you can find them is 50 bucks a box. This is not about "cartridge" guns but about price comparison.

 

[jamesthomas]

Just a FYI for folks, Cabela's has their Pietta .36 cal. Navy Steel frame with 7 1/2 inch barrel for $179.00 with free shipping through 9/30. If It was at the beginning of the month I would be buying one, but right now I have empty pockets.

 

[inlikeflint]

As far as getting black powder I think a lot of stores carry it but none have it out front. I have to ask for it at a bass pro store. They keep it in the back in a safe. And is just a little less than $25 pound.

 

[Brokenlaig]

Young fella, here's what you need, either this one:
1851 steel frame
or this one:
Pietta 1858 New Model Army
For economy, go with the Navy in .36. For strength and power, the '58 NMA in .44. Both of these Pietta replicas have great reputations, although the Remington is a good deal stronger and the design tends to be less finicky than the Colt.

 

[Ken Cormier]

A CVA 36calibre navy.

 

[Zonie]

You are correct.

By Federal law, any real black powder must be kept locked up by a store unless the customer is right there.

There are a lot of Federal laws dealing with black powder and there are a bunch of State laws in some States added to them.

That's part of the reason a lot of gun stores don't want to bother selling it.

Folks who know of a store that's willing to put up with the hassle should make it a point to thank them. :thumbsup:

 

[TFoley]

Young fella, here's what you need, either this one:
1851 steel frame
or this one:
Pietta 1858 New Model Army
For economy, go with the Navy in .36. For strength and power, the '58 NMA in .44. Both of these Pietta replicas have great reputations, although the Remington is a good deal stronger and the design tends to be less finicky than the Colt.

In general, I agree with this post. For economy in use, and in the unlikely event that you don't actually 'take' to it after all, the .36 is a good choice. It is also, from the esthetic POV, the downright most elegant BP handgun ever made.

However, notwithstanding the great choice of the NMA, there is one thing to take into consideration, and that is the size of your hand and the grip on the pistol. I was over in my local gunstore yesterday, getting some supplies and 'visiting' the soon-to-be-mine Highwall and had a look at three different brands of NMA on sale there. Substantially the same, all three had different size and shape grips - from comfortably hand-filling to downright small. You might like to try out a few different brands to see which suits your hand best.

Odd that nobody has mentioned the Rogers & Spencer revolver - mine, sold by EMF, is almost forty years old, and was bought in the Berlin R&GC. It has grips that are almost the same size as an N-frame S&W. It has quirky looks that don't appeal to everybody, but then, we kinda match in that respect. :wink:

tac

 

[swathdiver]

If you like the looks and feel of the "1851 Confederate Navy" (.36 cal) as I do, go ahead and get one. You cannot hurt it with 24 grain charges which is about all you can get under a round ball. We use 20 at the range and its plenty powerful even for hunting.

Stick with real BP and take your time keeping it clean.

My first was a CVA Hawken Pistol around Christmas of '81.