First build on the way, had a question.

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abstange

32 Cal.
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I recently decided to get into muzzleloading and figured if I am going to do it, why bother with an inline that performs almost as good as my .30-06. I've been reading these forums trying to learn all that I can and decided to go with a GPR flintlock in .54 caliber instead of a percussion due to a lack of percussion caps available in my area. Well, the time has finally come and I ordered my new project on Sunday and it shipped today so now the real prep work begins. The first question I had was once the barrel and lock are assembled, will I mess anything up if I shoot it before finishing up the wood work? I might have a chance to go shooting in the next couple of weeks and I don't think I can have the woodwork done by then. I would like to (if possible) use it for muzzleloader season in December.
 
Don't.
A hurry-up slam job on any kit will lead not to trouble with the components themselves, but with an unsatisfied shooter that seldom takes the time to re-do the kit nicely.
Believe me, I've seen it dozens of times.

Get it ready for December 2014.

The primary issue with a flint lock kit is getting the barrel bedded properly for the locks pan an frizzen.
The pages here in the Gun Builders section are loaded with repair and fitting questions from guy's that hurry a kit and need help in hind-sight. While things can be re-done, it's much easier to do it right the first time.
Try to quell the anxiousness, :wink:
 
Take your time to complete the gun. There will be other times to shoot. But it takes time, sweat, tears, and sometimes blood to put one together right.
 
If we were talking about one of the more advanced "kits" where you have to carefully inlet the parts, drill and thread the holes etc., I'd agree with the others.

Seeing how you are assembling a GPR which basically is pretty much a "drop together" kit with the holes already drilled and tapped I think you could use your gun before doing the final finish on the stock.

Just realize you will have to take everything apart and do a good job of sanding and finishing before you can call the gun "finished".
 
Thanks Zonie. That's what I was looking for. I had planned on taking my time and doing a good job, which shouldn't be hard since I am a little OCD. This was a best case scenario question for the build. Mostly if I happen to be to the stage where the barrel and the lock are fit properly and I am just working on the stock I wanted to try to get a rough sight in before it gets too cold. Then I can take my time finishing the rest. I'm of the mindset of if it gets done by season, great. If not, there is always next year.
 
Put it together & go shoot it. You can take it apart in 10 min after hunting & so all the sanding & etc. It is a Assembly Kit, so not allot to do & a lil dirt & fouling will not hurt it. Now I would Not get it wet, as it is raw wood. But if I had ML season her & wanted to go, I would GO. That takes 3/4 Square flints, BTW. Looks in Tracks catalog & then yave them.

Keith Lisle
 
Thanks Birddog for the advice. I knew I forgot something when I was ordering from TOW the other day. I will have to get some extra flints ordered sometime soon. Do you recommend the English syle flints?
 
Yes. Get the Tom Fuller English flints. It is 3/4 x 3/4, Not the standard 3/4 flint. A std one is 3/4 x 7/8 long. The one you want 3/4 x 3/4. Just read the catalog, I think it even says for Lyman or T/C rifles.

Also, ANYTHING you order from them, make SURE they have it in stock. One time they held me up for 6 mo on a barrel & 3 mo. on a lock ! Every time I called it was Next Week. :bull:

Keith Lisle
 
Consider ordering an L&R RPL lock for it. The performance difference is huge and you will not regret it.
 
Right now funds are kind of short so I will stick with the lock that came with it. That isn't something that is too hard to add later if I change my mind is it?
 
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