First Build

[MSW]

if you have not already done so, I would recommend the purchase of Peter Alexander's The Gunsmith of Grenville County, which will set you back about forty five buck (if memory serves) which is a more than cost- efficient purchase if you count the parts you don't ruin and the time you don't waste. This book explains in detail the order in which to proceed, and why you should do the steps in that particular sequence.

good luck with your build and remember to take pictures - we love pictures ...

Make good smoke!

 

[Birddog6]

Don't know where ya ar at in Ohio, but in mid area, I suggest ya go to Log Cabin & look at what they have. Give ya another perspective on building.

Also if you are in the southern part of the state, within a easy drive ya can be at Tip Curtis Frontier Shop shop in Cross Plains TN. That will be the most educational place on Gun Building you will most likely ever go & will result in seeing several hundred stocks, 50-100 different rifles to actually shoulder & try for FIT, and more gun parts than you can dream of. :shocked2: Tip has more patterns than anyone in the business & more LH patterns than anyone, if you are a Leftie.

You will leave astonished & I guarantee you will go back for another visit ! :thumbsup: :rotf:

And it is 100% better than picking a rifle out of a catalog or off the internet. I am not saying you have to buy it there, I am saying that by going there you have a Multitude of Styles to choose from & actually shoulder the firearm itself.

What you are doing right now is basically you are test driving a car by shopping in a magazine.
:shake: Not a good way to invest $ 1000. IMHO.

Go DRIVE the sucker..... Then decide what you know FITS YOU, and pick a vender.

Keith Lisle

 

[MSW]

+1

Mr. Lisle is a very smart fellow, and you should heed his advice.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I agree, however I'm not able to make that type of drive unfortunately. None the less, a great reference as the one mentioned is certainly invaluable. Very excited about starting my build, parts should trickle in this coming week.

 

[MSW]

Bwa ha ha ha ... (mad scientist laugh)

he's hooked for sure!

 

[Crewdawg445]

I truly am, there is just something about these old traditional arms that no modern day weapon can compare to. They are amazing works of art and beauty with function and just down right cool! I've built numerous black guns and .308 rifles, but my love is truly smoke poles! They teach you to actually shoot and learn to be one with your rifle.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Once you learn to shoot a flint LR well, going back to shooting a modern scoped rifle will feel like cheating.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I could not agree more! They are truly amazing firearms. As of now... Fedex has dropped of my kit!!! Feeling like a kid at Christmas, yet sitting at work going stir crazy!

 

[Peter LeRay]

Congrats on your first purchase. You are at the perfect place for any info you may need. This forum is a well of knowledge, and I have never talked to a greater group of guys when needing advice! Any questions just ask! We're all here to help.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Never have I been so excited to open and gaze upon a box of parts! All I see is beautiful results and something to be proud of! My reference "recreating the American longrifle" ramrod, and mainspring vise will be arriving tomorrow.

beautiful wood grain! Can't wait to see how it's pops.

Loving the Jim Chambers siler lock, definitely top tier hardware. Certainly won't require much but browning to finish. You can tell by look and feel his locks mean business!

last but not least... the trigger guard, for those who want to see how castings arrive and the work they require to finish. This by far is going to require ALLOT of effort.

Very pleased with everything, barrel is a GM .54 caliber and appears to be exceptionally machined with no noticeable tool marks anywhere. Ready for winter!!! :grin:

 

[Grizzly Adams]

Glad you finally got your kit! I know the feeling of when that long box shows up on your doorstep-good stuff :thumbsup:

 

[Eric Krewson]

You could brown your lock as is but most of us disassemble them, file and sand all the rough casting marks and smooth out the orange peal surface first.

 

[Crewdawg445]

VERY NICE! Standard mini files and various sandpaper grits I assume?

 

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, the frizzen is so hard it takes the most time, sand paper only as it won't file.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Indeed, I can see that taking a vast amount of elbow grease. All the efforts will certainly be worth it!

 

[Col. Batguano]

The alternative to that is to soften the metal, smooth it and then reharden and temper. Softening is mandatory if you plan on engraving it.

 

[Zonie]

Your right if the frizzen is going to be engraved but IMO it's best to not frinkle with it and leave it as it comes.

Crewdog: Use the black silicone carbide "wet/dry" sandpaper on the metal parts. That's what it's made for.

There are several different sandpapers that will work on wood. Here's my opinion of them,

FLINT: Good fairly cheap sandpaper. It breaks down rapidly and loses its ability to remove even soft wood. Color: Off white to grayish.

ALUMINUM OXIDE: Better life than flint but still wears out fairly rapidly. Color: light to dark brown.

GARNET: Best of the common sandpapers for sanding wood. It is easily recognized by its reddish color.
It resists wear even on hard woods like maple but it still doesn't work well on metal parts.

SILICONE CARBIDE: Made for sanding metal, fiber glass and painted surfaces.
It is water proof so its glue won't break down like the sandpaper made for sanding wood.
Used dry it can "load up" with embedded metal particles if it is used on brass, aluminum or bronze. When it loads up washing with water will help to remove the trapped particles but like all sandpapers eventually it will lose its abrasive surface.

Sanding wood with Silicone Carbide will rapidly "load up" the abrasive material causing it to stop sanding. Water doesn't help to remove the trapped wood particles. For this reason, save it for your metal parts.

The Silicone Carbide course grits are best for sanding metal and rarely will using a grit finer than 400 do much to improve a sanded metal surface.

The 600 and finer grits like 1200 are primarily used by paint shops for wet sanding primers, clear and color coats on high grade custom paint jobs.

Although they will work on brass and bronze parts I've found that a good polishing compound will work better.

Another tip (in case you don't know):
To rapidly remove wood, sand across the grain (90 degrees to the direction the grain is running).
Although this rapidly removes wood it leaves scratches on the remaining wood and the only way to remove these scratches is to sand "with the grain."

 

[JonnyReb3]

Wow Crewdog! Gorgeous wood and Lock..Bet you ARE excited!
Can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbsup:

 

[paramedicjake]

You should look at Laurel Mountain Forge , I have had great success with the products . Barrel brown , hand rub finishes . GREAT COMPANY !!!!

 

[Crewdawg445]

Good deal Zonie, thank you! I've never actually polished a lock to the degree I'm planning with this one. What would be your recommendations for the various grits? I know you listed a few above, just wanting to see what you think would be ideal. Super excited about this build! Thanks JonnyReb, stock sure does have some gorgeous grain patterns! I'm also wanting to reveal more barrel, any advice on slimming down the forestock and keeping the wood removal consistent? Also planning on doing this to the ramrod channel. + 1 paramedicjake, certainly using them!