Before you attack your lock, remember, it's a very good idea to take it apart before you do any finishing. To do this without breaking the mainspring it's a good idea to buy a mainspring vise. If that isn't possible, some locks mainsprings can be removed with a set of Vise-Grips or other adjustable pliers.
Several things you need to know before you try to take your lock apart.
First, NEVER pry the hammer or cock off of the lock.
Second, the mainspring vise or adjustable pliers are not used to squeeze the spring unless your installing a brand new mainspring.
To remove the mainspring,
1, Set the lock at full cock.
2. Position the mainspring vise on the upper and lower leaves of the spring and snug it up so it lightly touches the spring.
3. Push up on the sear arm to release the tumbler and allow the cock to fall to the fired position.
4. Gently rotate the mainspring/vise to work the spring out of the hole in the lock plate and then sit it aside in some safe place.
5. With the mainspring removed, remove the bridle, sear and sear spring.
When doing this be very careful not to lose the "fly" that is located in the tumbler.
When you've captured the "fly" stick it on a piece of masking, electrical or magic tape. The idea here is not to lose the tiny fly.
6. Place the lock, hammer/cock up, on two blocks of wood on a table or on opened vise jaws so that the blocks or vise jaws straddle the tumbler while they support the lock plate.
7. If the hammer/cock screw is still installed, remove it.
Now, find a rod that fits inside the square hole in the hammer or a nail that fits easily into the screw hole where the hammer/cocks screw was.
8. Lightly tap the rod/nail with a hammer. This will drive the tumbler square out of the hammer/cock. Don't lose it when it comes loose because if you used the vise jaws, it will fall onto the floor.
9. If the lock is a flintlock, remove the feather spring and the frizzen. If the lock uses a screw to retain the pan, leave it alone. There is no reason for removing the pan.
Now, getting back to your question:
First you have to decide what you want the lock to look like. It can be left in its as cast condition, sanded and browned or "blued", or highly polished. All four finishes are correct for most "new" muzzleloaders.
If you want to brown/blue/polish and end up with a good looking lock the first thing that will need attention is the casting flash or mismatch often seen on the parts. This needs to be removed and smoothed out and a file is the best tool to do the job.
After the parting lines that caused the flash or mismatch are removed start sanding with a 60 or 80 grit wet/dry paper. The courser 60 grit works best.
After the entire surface looks uniformly scratched, switch from the 60 to the 80, or the 80 to some 100 or 120 grit.
Following the 100 or 120 go to a 150 or 180 and then to a 220.
If I plan on browning or rust bluing the surface, I stop there. I've found the cold blue regents work best at that roughness.
If you plan on polishing the lock to a high luster going to 400 or 600 grit might be in order.
Have fun.
Several things you need to know before you try to take your lock apart.
First, NEVER pry the hammer or cock off of the lock.
Second, the mainspring vise or adjustable pliers are not used to squeeze the spring unless your installing a brand new mainspring.
To remove the mainspring,
1, Set the lock at full cock.
2. Position the mainspring vise on the upper and lower leaves of the spring and snug it up so it lightly touches the spring.
3. Push up on the sear arm to release the tumbler and allow the cock to fall to the fired position.
4. Gently rotate the mainspring/vise to work the spring out of the hole in the lock plate and then sit it aside in some safe place.
5. With the mainspring removed, remove the bridle, sear and sear spring.
When doing this be very careful not to lose the "fly" that is located in the tumbler.
When you've captured the "fly" stick it on a piece of masking, electrical or magic tape. The idea here is not to lose the tiny fly.
6. Place the lock, hammer/cock up, on two blocks of wood on a table or on opened vise jaws so that the blocks or vise jaws straddle the tumbler while they support the lock plate.
7. If the hammer/cock screw is still installed, remove it.
Now, find a rod that fits inside the square hole in the hammer or a nail that fits easily into the screw hole where the hammer/cocks screw was.
8. Lightly tap the rod/nail with a hammer. This will drive the tumbler square out of the hammer/cock. Don't lose it when it comes loose because if you used the vise jaws, it will fall onto the floor.
9. If the lock is a flintlock, remove the feather spring and the frizzen. If the lock uses a screw to retain the pan, leave it alone. There is no reason for removing the pan.
Now, getting back to your question:
First you have to decide what you want the lock to look like. It can be left in its as cast condition, sanded and browned or "blued", or highly polished. All four finishes are correct for most "new" muzzleloaders.
If you want to brown/blue/polish and end up with a good looking lock the first thing that will need attention is the casting flash or mismatch often seen on the parts. This needs to be removed and smoothed out and a file is the best tool to do the job.
After the parting lines that caused the flash or mismatch are removed start sanding with a 60 or 80 grit wet/dry paper. The courser 60 grit works best.
After the entire surface looks uniformly scratched, switch from the 60 to the 80, or the 80 to some 100 or 120 grit.
Following the 100 or 120 go to a 150 or 180 and then to a 220.
If I plan on browning or rust bluing the surface, I stop there. I've found the cold blue regents work best at that roughness.
If you plan on polishing the lock to a high luster going to 400 or 600 grit might be in order.
Have fun.
