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First go at casting Balls and Bullets, thoughts and questions

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Rifleman1776 said:
Idaho Ron said:
Moonman is SPOT ON!!!
The blue is from over heated pure lead. The Pock marks are also from over heated pure lead. I little tin will help. I bet you had a lot of the Blue, green, yellow dross on top. When it got way over heated it probably turned black.
Make sure that the inside of the mould is free of oils or any other contaminate. To be honest I like a Ladle better for large bullets but the REAL is not that big. BTW how much did those REAL's weigh.


Guess I have never tried casting too hot. Never saw that kind of blueing before. My technique of adjusting the heat until I get a little frosting works for me.

You don't try to cast too hot it just happens. As you draw down the pot there is less to heat. A lot of times it gets too hot as it is getting empty.
If you are getting frosting on your bullets your lead has alloy. If it has alloy it will not turn Blue, green,yellow. Over heated alloy will frost the bullets and the dross just turns dark. If you haven't seen blue most likely you have never poured pure.
 
Instead of taping on the mold or handle to release a bullet, just take you wooden dowel, push on on the corners of the mold as you open it. I do the bottom right corner. Bullet should just slide out as you open the mold.

Fleener
 
hawkeye2 said:
The pockmarks could also be caused by contaminants on the sprue plate and top of the mold. These could be oil or lube and they can run there from the plate pivot screw if you lube that. I don't use anything except mold release on my molds (usually Rapine molds) and I also take the sprue plate off Lee molds and lay it on a hard flat stone to clean it up and give a closer fit. It also seems to do a better job of cutting off the sprue after this.

:thumbsup:

Those spots look like too much beeswax used on the sprue plate screw and it ran. Definitely stone the top of the mold and sprue plate then coat with pencil lead.

When I get boolits that look like yours, like they didn't fill the mold completely, that's usually because my lead it not hot enough yet.

I use a Lee bottom pour as well. Regardless of how many rounds that need casting that day, I keep the pot between 15-20lbs of lead. This keeps the temperature more consistent. When done casting, I pour the remaining lead back into ingots for storage save for 5-10lbs left in the pot for next time and to keep contaminants away from the pour spout.

When casting on a folding table out on the porch, a 3/4" plywood board is placed on the table and the Lee Pot is placed inside a cookie sheet and the cast balls are also dropped into a towel on another cookie sheet. The cookie sheet will capture all the lead should I be forced to leave the area and the pot at that moment decide to divest itself of 20 pounds of lead! It's happened twice over the years, once without and once with the sheet.

No, we don't bake cookies on them anymore, I bought my wife new ones and she was then happy happy happy.
 
If you are getting frosting on your bullets your lead has alloy

Not sure that is a correct statement. Maybe an expert can chime in here.
I used to buy and distribute lead ingots to ml dealers direct from National Lead in Cincinnati. I also did my own casting from that pure lead. My frosting was the result of too high temps. I do not believe alloy is a factor.
 
I agree. I don't use a thermometer and cast at a stove. When my lead starts getting too hot I notice a slow time to cool on the spur, and they start dropping out frosty.... Turn down the heat and they are back to shinny.
 
Yep, too hot when they frost. I generally take it as the sign to rotate my molds when casting with the Lees. If it comes on too quickly I turn down the heat.

The pock marks, I agree, a contaminant, likely lube from the sprue hinge, seen it before, first hand :grin:

The last thing you want to do on aluminum molds is stike the aluminum block, easiest way to ruin a mold. Hit the hinge with a wooden dowel, I use an old hammer handle.

SEPAflint, if you are having trouble with boolits filling out, a smidge of tin, added to your melt, will do wonders. The right temp also makes a world of differnce.

Another thing you can do, with a bottom pour pot, is try "pressure casting". Simply hold the mold up tight to the pour spout(you'll find it fits in the sprue plate nicely) and pour 'till full. I have had mixed results with this, depends on the mold, but it may be worth a try for filling out molds as a last resort.

Finally a casting thermometer and Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook are great investments to get good projectiles.

YMMV
 
Thanks all for the advice. I don't know what I was thinking when hitting the mold block. I did get back at the other day and cleaned the sprue cutting plate. That eliminated the pock marks. I definitely will need to cast again to work out the kinks. I'm going to buy a couple more molds so I will invest in a thermometer and will pick up a few other items to help me on my way.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
If you are getting frosting on your bullets your lead has alloy

Not sure that is a correct statement. Maybe an expert can chime in here.
I used to buy and distribute lead ingots to ml dealers direct from National Lead in Cincinnati. I also did my own casting from that pure lead. My frosting was the result of too high temps. I do not believe alloy is a factor.

Do you have a lead hardness tester? DO you have several years of using that tester on many different samples? Frosty lead has an alloy. Now if you want to have me test your frosty lead I would be happy to. The fact is most guys have no clue how soft or hard their lead is. They guess.
 
Fingernails? If I can scratch it with thumb nail I use it. I can't gain say you on alloyed lead frosting as I don't know. How ever if what's dropping out of the mold stars frosting I turn down the heat. Depending on the temp shinny or frosted drop from the same pot.
 
Idaho Ron said:
Rifleman1776 said:
If you are getting frosting on your bullets your lead has alloy

Not sure that is a correct statement. Maybe an expert can chime in here.
I used to buy and distribute lead ingots to ml dealers direct from National Lead in Cincinnati. I also did my own casting from that pure lead. My frosting was the result of too high temps. I do not believe alloy is a factor.

Do you have a lead hardness tester? DO you have several years of using that tester on many different samples? Frosty lead has an alloy. Now if you want to have me test your frosty lead I would be happy to. The fact is most guys have no clue how soft or hard their lead is. They guess.


I have never had a hardness tester. But, as stated, I bought direct from the company that produced the lead and THEY said it was pure. It could frost at high temps. Long time ago, none of that lead left. Most of it ended up in the backstops at Friendship.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
Idaho Ron said:
Rifleman1776 said:
If you are getting frosting on your bullets your lead has alloy

Not sure that is a correct statement. Maybe an expert can chime in here.
I used to buy and distribute lead ingots to ml dealers direct from National Lead in Cincinnati. I also did my own casting from that pure lead. My frosting was the result of too high temps. I do not believe alloy is a factor.

Do you have a lead hardness tester? DO you have several years of using that tester on many different samples? Frosty lead has an alloy. Now if you want to have me test your frosty lead I would be happy to. The fact is most guys have no clue how soft or hard their lead is. They guess.


I have never had a hardness tester. But, as stated, I bought direct from the company that produced the lead and THEY said it was pure. It could frost at high temps. Long time ago, none of that lead left. Most of it ended up in the backstops at Friendship.

My guess, and it is just a guess, is that both of you are right. I know from experience that frosty looking bullets are the result of too much heat, as I have experienced the same as tenngun, mitigate the heat, frost goes away, from the same pot of melt. Now I seem to remember reading or hearing something about antimony adding to this effect, so I am guessing the alloy idea is also correct.
 
SEPAflint said:
Thanks all for the advice. I don't know what I was thinking when hitting the mold block. I did get back at the other day and cleaned the sprue cutting plate. That eliminated the pock marks. I definitely will need to cast again to work out the kinks. I'm going to buy a couple more molds so I will invest in a thermometer and will pick up a few other items to help me on my way.


If you are going to be picking up a couple more molds, Lodgewood has some of the old DGW scissors type molds NOS, for $20. They have some sizes that aren't particularly common and conicals too.

I just got a couple and they are in nice shape, paint flaking off the handles but the cavities are like new. They are not as slick to use as the more modern type, and you'll need a pair of dykes to cut the sprue off, but they are kinda cool in a nostalgic sort of way.
 
tenngun said:
Fingernails? If I can scratch it with thumb nail I use it. I can't gain say you on alloyed lead frosting as I don't know. How ever if what's dropping out of the mold stars frosting I turn down the heat. Depending on the temp shinny or frosted drop from the same pot.

I have lead that I can scratch that is 18 BHN.
 
I bought lead that the "company" said was pure and it was 18 BHN hard.
Here is a question for all. The thin little lead pieces that are dental lead, Soft or hard?
And yes I know the answer.
 
Well that's the only test I have ever used, and importantly I have only cast ball for a front stuffer. The only time I have ever got frost was too hot. Shooting something that you need a hard load for is out of my experince. Still soft enough to scratch has always shot as well as I can hold, kept cool I have shinny ball, 18bhn, maybe.
 
Diagonal cutters, a term commonly used by electricians for the tool to cut wire is dykes or side cutters. End nippers are also good for cutting off the sprue.

With any cutter you crimp the sprue with the cutter, rotate the sprue 90 degrees and then cut the sprue off.
 
hawkeye2 said:
The pockmarks could also be caused by contaminants on the sprue plate and top of the mold. These could be oil or lube and they can run there from the plate pivot screw if you lube that. I don't use anything except mold release on my molds (usually Rapine molds) and I also take the sprue plate off Lee molds and lay it on a hard flat stone to clean it up and give a closer fit. It also seems to do a better job of cutting off the sprue after this.
Yup
 

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