First Gun Build Questions

[ApprenticeBuilder]

If your talking about a gap at the end of the tang of the breach plug then I would not worry a bit, you'll want about a 32nd of an inch of gap there anyway to help eliminate chip outs in that area as a result of recoil.

 

Tom... it's more of a gap that 1/32". I don't know the exact measurement, but I don't like it. I have to get myself a set of feeler gauges. Right now all I have is a very thin ruler that is I want to say 0.2" (I think... can't remember exactly) in thickness that I have been using, and I'm sure it would fit in there. I didn't try it last night though as it really pi$$ed me off when I saw it and decided to call it a night.

 

[Robby]

John, Is it possible that the angle of your tang screw caused the barrel to nudge ahead a bit upon tightening? Try loosening the tang screw and with a wooden or rawhide mallet, tap the barrel back into position, re-tighten the screw and see what happens.
Robby

 

Robby... I actually noticed the gap when I was installing the bolt, so it wasn't that. I must have let it happen when I pinned the barrel even though I thought I checked this with each pin to make sure there was no gap. I will try tapping the barrel back and see what happens tonight, but I have a feeling it is where it is for good.

Any other thoughts or advice to correct this? I don't really want this to be just a wall decoration.

John

 

[Robby]

John, I thought I remember reading that you slotted the holes in your barrel lugs. If not, slot them, loosen the tang screw and try again. Unless there is some kind of obstruction it should slide back into the original position.
Robby

 

[mikemeteor]

Bed it with Acraglass and don't worry about it.
Welding on barrel is a bad idea.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Without a picture its hard to say, but I do know that a .2? is not a thin ruler by any streach of the imagination.

.250 = 1/4"

.125 = 1/8"

.062 = 1/16"

.032 = 1/32"

if it is a very large gap as you describe then you could always do an inlay of brass/silver, or glue in a chunk of material and re-inlet the rear of the tang.

Many solutions available.

 

Tom... sorry, it should have said .02...

I think the acraglas is what I will do. I need to measure the gap though to see what the true gap is, but if someone were to inlay brass or silver, would that be inlayed to the stock or the barrel? As far as glueing a chunk of material in and then re-inlet, I would think that would be tough if the gap is say .02 and not .25 or something bigger. I would think it would break off fairly easily when inletting.

So if I do the acraglas, any tips on how to do it the right way? I've never used the stuff, but I know you have to coat everything with something that you don't want beng glued down. I hate to use that stuff as the error will be seen I think, but I also want the darn thing to be safe to shoot. So I guess suck it up and chalk it off to a learning experience.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I'd have to see a picture, if it is as small as .02? then the stain and finish will make it all but invisible.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I made a mistake with my barrel lug hole, and wound up with it too far down. I fired up the torch, and brazed the hole closed on the lug. I tried to limit the time the torch was heating the barrel lug because I didn't want to heat up the barrel. I also put a propane torch to the barrel to pre-heat it when casting the pewter nose cap. Was this application of heat to the barrel a bad idea? Did I damage something? Is there a way to tell?

 

[Robby]

I must be missing something. How can twenty thousandth's not be compensated for by slotting the barrel lugs and tapping the barrel back into its original position.
Robby

 

[tallbear]

There should be NO gap between the back of the barrel and the wood.There should be a slight gap between the back of the tang and the wood.Slot your lugs and relive enough wood at the back of the tang so the back of the barrel mates up perfectly with the wood.Glass it as a last resort only.

Mitch

 

Robby, 0.020 is not the actual gap... I don't know what the gap is (I haven't measured it yet). I had mentioned 0.020 as a reference as I have a small metal ruler that is that thickness and is the only feeler gauge that I have. I need to get some.

As far as not tapping it back into alignment with the slots and all, JD mentioned that too and I hadn't thought of that. I just figured that everything would go where it needs to be when I assemble it. I'll give that a try when I get home.

 

[Col. Batguano]

You actually already have a feeler gauge. Sheets of regular old paper are this thick:

TEXT PAPERS 25x38
50# OFFSET .0040 60# ENAMEL .0030
60# OFFSET .0045 70# ENAMEL .0045
70# OFFSET .0050 80# ENAMEL .0040
100# OFFSET .0070 100# ENAMEL .0050

 

[mikemeteor]

I made a mistake with my barrel lug hole, and wound up with it too far down. I fired up the torch, and brazed the hole closed on the lug. I tried to limit the time the torch was heating the barrel lug because I didn't want to heat up the barrel. I also put a propane torch to the barrel to pre-heat it when casting the pewter nose cap. Was this application of heat to the barrel a bad idea? Did I damage something? Is there a way to tell?

There are metallurgists and barrel makers and machinists here who can tell you better than I what the exact dangers are (e.g. warping, material loss).
Welding heat is much hotter than propane heat/soldering heat, at least stick and MIG are.
Soldering on a barrel is done safely all the time.
Subjecting a barrel to welding heat would make me way nervous - at least by an amateur welder like me.

 

Okay, so let me ask this as I need to take care of the gap between the barrel and the breech. I'm not going to weld anything on it, as I don't have the equipment and don't want to risk anything.

If I have a gap that is ~ 0.015", and I have wood shavings, how can I fill the gap? Do I remove the barrel, get some glue, shavings and just place them in and then press them in with the barrel? What's the best way of doing this?

Below is a picture of the gap (little blurry, but you can clearly see the gap).

 

[tallbear]

Just move the barrel back until there is no gap.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I would move it back,

May want to use pics regularly as its true about a pic vrs 1000 words, or do you have this same gap at the end of the tang of the breech plug as well. ?

 

[Birddog6]

With the breechplug Out, you should be Flush at the breech.(No Gap) If you have a gap, shave the wood restricting it & move barrel back flush.
Put the breechplug/tang on, if you then have a gap, the tang or lug under the tang is holding it back. Shave wood again.
Or in you now have Underlugs on, they could be holding it back.
That is why it is important to get this Barrel Breech Fit first & it be correct, so as you go if you later incur a problem, you know what caused it.

Also, this is why you don't drill the vent liner hole til Everything is fit & correct.

Keith Lisle

 

[jdkerstetter]

I'm just happy to see we're all on the same page and nobody said....Acraglas! :barf:......:wink: Enjoy, J.D.