Fixing another's mistakes, gun stock.

[Greg Blackburn]

Since I'm going to keep this .54 rust bucket, I might as well try to learn something from it/improve it.

It's a kit gun, and although not super poorly done, the guy must have been in something of a hurry. The stock is rough in a couple of places and although stained, it isn't top coated.

Since it's only a 4 digit serial number, I'd say it was stained with an oil based stain....a friend suggested tung oil? Should I try and sand down the rough spots then use the tung oil? Would tung oil make the stock water resistant?

What say you guys? Do you need a pic to look at?

Greg

 

[BrownBear]

I'd use a chemical stripper on the whole stock, smooth the rough spots, then start over. It's really tough to match finish a patch at a time.

As for tung oil, there's divided opinion on it here on the site. For over 40 years, some of it professional, I used various linseed concoctions ranging from TruOil to secret recipes, and was happy. I tried tung oil finish (the formulated stuff from the hardware store, as opposed to straight tung oil) one time, and switched to it completely. Guess how I vote on your question? :rotf:

 

[jdkerstetter]

I have still not learned to buy others mistakes...I am a glutten for punishment though.

Best advice, don't sand. The stock was probably not "whiskered" properly first and that resulted in standing grain fibers when the stain was applied. If you use magnification you should see little curls standing up all in one direction.

Since no topcoat was applied I would wet the stock with water then burish with Scotch Brite pads or denim against the grain. Scraping is another aproach...then burnish.

No stock finish will completely water proof wood but for best protection I recommend these products: http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=chem-pak&ksubmit=y

Waterlox Marine finish also comes highly recommended. Both lines of products are made from Tung oil modified with urethanes to impart the best qualities of each.

Eitherway, buy the gloss and buff it back to the desired sheen with denim or Scotch-Brite pads as the flat and semi-gloss contains aditives that can cloud the finish.

Enjoy and Good Luck, J.D.

 

[rootsy]

I pretty much exclusively have been using Tried & True Varnish Oil on the last half dozen guns I've finished. I like it.. You can buy it at Woodcraft or from the mfg website

 

[ohio ramrod]

I would get some scocth brite (synethic steel wool) or steel wool, go over the entire stock and then refinish using either tung oil , or BLO ( boiled linseed oil ) Neither are truely water resistant as a modern varnish would be , but both are traditional and easily "touched up " Where as modern varnishes are more water resistant but difficult to touch up once sctatched. And if you are like me guns are made to be used and when used often get scratched or dented ! :idunno:

 

[rich pierce]

Your biggest challenge may be matching stain if you do any smoothing with abrasives whatsoever, which will remove some of the stain.

 

[jdkerstetter]

The 2 tung oil finishes I referred to above are both easily touched up by rubbing more on and offer good moisture protection.

The BLO available today is far from historically correct. Good period finishes can be made up by cooking your on linseed oil with driers in it like white lead but your best option would be to use first press oils available at art supply stores. Common BLO is practically worthless as a stock finish.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[M. De Land]

I've been messing around with epoxy finish as a filler, after being dead set against it for years.
The trick is to prepare the wood just as you would to receive and oil finish, stain, work it down and then seal it with some very thin epoxy.Take down the epoxy to the wood surface and finish up with oil over the epoxy.
I heard about this and tried it on some hand gun stock I made. You cannot tell it from a pure oil finish but it resists water and denting like nothing I have ever tried before. I haven't done a complete stock with it yet as I'm looking for a thinner product to use. The grips were done with heated Agra-glass but this is not as thin as I would like so the wood will soak it up better for deeper penetration. MD

 

[ebiggs1]

Here is my experience. I would remove all finish and stain as possible. Get any commercial stripper and follow the directions. That is the hardest part. Make it as close to unfinished as you can. At this point you can decide what you want to do with it.
My personal preference is Minwax Tung oil Finish. I like to use one of the redder looking stains to give it a slightly reddish look.
You need to sand it up to 150 grit. No more. Put the first coat of tung oil on, let it dry and burnish it with 0000 steel wool. More coats and burnish it. Until you have it the way you want it to look.
Contrary to what you may have read this does make a nearly water-proof finish. But if you want a truly water-proof finish, use polyurethane. It is available either as a wiping or spraying method of application.
With the exception of the newer processed versions, I would avoid linseed oil at all costs.


Key points to remember is remove ALL the old finish. And remember to burnish between coats.

 

[don hepler]

I have been using Minwax products on all types of gun stocks, including muzzle loaders, with great success. You can mix some walnut and red mahogney together and duplicate most of the factory colors.

I told Tip Curtis about using Minwax spray polyurethene in satin on a Renegade. He said oh no! But when he saw the rifle, he said oh yes, well that is nice.

I have duplicated the finish, to the point where people can't tell it from factory finish. The spray nozzel has been improved, and are available in, flat, satin, semi-gloss, and high gloss.

 

[Robby]

hadden, Flat, satin, semi-gloss contain silicas to give them that appearance. I'm sure your experience using varnishes containing these particles has met with your expectations and satisfaction, but to anyone that is trying to bring out the natural highlights or even enhance the grain of wood, I would advise against using them. Modern living brings us many wonders and these finishes may be one of them, but the end result is that after drying, you are looking at the wood thru a fog of silica and loosing much of what nature put into that wood.
Robby

 

[Rifleman1776]

Since it's only a 4 digit serial number, I'd say it was stained with an oil based stain....a friend suggested tung oil? Should I try and sand down the rough spots then use the tung oil? Would tung oil make the stock water resistant?

I'm not sure what the serial number has to do with the type of finish on the gun.
If it is tung oil, that is a very durable, and moisture resistant finish. I don't know what a good stripper might be but am kinda guessing any good stripper will work. It does penetrate so even after stripping you will have a lot of hand sanding to do.
I like tung for guns. As I said, it is very tough and durable and moisture resistant. My preference is for pure tung, not the "stuff" added "finish" type.
And, when you are done: hotoSmile:

 

[don hepler]

I din't use polyurethane on my custom stocked maple rifle, and to that point I certainly agree with you.

I was responding to "ebiggs" recommendation of the use of polyurethane, and that I had used it to duplicate some factory finishes.

The original post stated that it was a 4 digit serial number, and I was assuming it to be a TC Hawken or Renegade. "In The Ten Ring" didn't say.
I used Minwax polyurethane on an old Renegade with outstanding results and most people think, it is the original "factory" finish.

 

[Zonie]

Minwax might be close to the kind of finishes most of the big factories use so if one was wanting to duplicate those finishes I'm sure hadden west is right.

IMO, for making a truly fine gun finish, Minwax won't even come close to cutting it.

It does look pretty good on a book case made by someone who doesn't mind cutting corners to "get the job done".

Needless to say, I wouldn't use it on a Crossman air rifle.

 

[ebiggs1]

It does look pretty good on a book case made by someone who doesn't mind cutting corners to "get the job done".

Oh, Mr. Zonie, this one hurt!

 

[jdkerstetter]

Needless to say, I wouldn't use it on a Crossman air rifle.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Seriously though, (not that Zonie isn't being serious) most modern finishes meant for indoor applications are not flexible enough for gunstock use. Flexibility is key to a working finish on items that will be subjected to the elements as the wood will expand and contract.

If the finish used will not take a dent without cracking it is not flexible enough for gunstock use and if used, you will eventually see crazing, cracking and then clouding.

Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Col. Batguano]

You may want to give some consideration to the many marine varnishes out there from places like West Marine. They even have a 2-part varnish that's more like an epoxy. I used it on a cedar strip canoe I built. VERY hard, and very shiney. Go to places like Rockler and Woodcraft to hear what those guys have to say too. They're more expensive than the big box store stuff, but in the scheme of things, what's another $10.

 

[Robby]

The marine spar version from this outfit is about as close to an old time varnish that is commercially available as I have found. Good stuff!!! http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/
Robby

 

[don hepler]

That's what I was doing,"trying to hide the wood" it was a straight grained TC Renegade. Why would I try to enhance it? I'm saving the good stuff for my Crossman.

 

[ebiggs1]

I think there is some confusion in the term “varnish”. Currently it has been widely used to include any clear finish. That has changed over the years as the product has changed.
I only refer it to solely in the use of polyurethane. I don't care for any of the other uses, or products, associated with the use of the word.
Just finished this one last Saturday.

It does look pretty good on a book case made by someone who doesn't mind cutting corners to "get the job done".

Not a “book case” but didn't turn out too bad for corner cutting!