fixing bad tang inletting

[Kansas Jake]

I would remover more surface wood on the lock panel so the lock is not sunk into the wood so much. Try to get it so the surface of the lock plate is at least even with the wood surface. You are doing a great job. I think I would sent it back again and asked for a kit and a refund on the price difference. You are doing a good job.

 

[Phil Coffins]

On the side view the contour from the top to the side appears to be a bit square, a radius here would look nicer. Use a hard backer with the sand paper to keep the edges crisp.
Higher resolution photos would help pick out details.

 

[michael mcghee]

On the side view the contour from the top to the side appears to be a bit square, a radius here would look nicer. Use a hard backer with the sand paper to keep the edges crisp.
Higher resolution photos would help pick out details.

lock side?? only camera i got is on my cell phone..

 

[Jim Evans]

You should send the before and after photo to Lyman and show them what it should look like coming out of the factory.

 

[michael mcghee]

You should send the before and after photo to Lyman and show them what it should look like coming out of the factory.

i will still... got lot more sanding done left the wood a little high hope the lock and tang will be flush before it is done the old finish on it is junk.. some place is was hard too get off.. a few place's was easy... i fixed the trigger and trigger too looked like the first one i send back..

 

[Eric Krewson]

You are still a little proud on the wood at the back of your tang it should be flush with metal. The lock panel can go down a little to be flush with your lock plate.

Another thing that looks awful on a lyman is the flat place in the wrist at the tail of the lock, try to blend that in with top and bottom of the wrist to be more round.

TC had the same flat place on the wrist of their kit guns. I put one together a while back,there wasn't enough wood to get rid of all the flatness but I got rid of most of it.

 

[sawyer04]

Lots of wood to come off before you need stain. Fixing that lock panel will cause everything on the stock to need reshaping.

Least there is enough wood to work with. If this gun was purchased as a complete gun it makes me wonder if these are bulk purchased as kits and throwed together by the seller to increase the bottom line. Could that be possible? The old Thompson centers had a K at the beginning of the serial number to designate a kit rifle, is any of that practice going on in these days?
In my opinion the touch hole is a little high above the pan in the picture.
The gun has a lot of potential, but full completed selling price does not compliment the merchandise you received.

 

[SDSmlf]

I don’t care for the slight chamfer that Lyman puts on their tangs. Here is the last one I did. Took the tang flat and flush with the wood. Requires refinishing the tang.

Photo reminds me I have to replace that hex head set screw.

 

[Flintandsteel]

More ..... metal should be flush with wood.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Removing the beveled edge on the tang certainly helps, the wood needs the flat area to be contoured from the tang to the panels.
Maybe this side view gives some idea of what I mean.
IMG_1287 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Gonetocamp]

Least there is enough wood to work with. If this gun was purchased as a complete gun it makes me wonder if these are bulk purchased as kits and throwed together by the seller to increase the bottom line.

I have reached the conclusion that the Lymans, including my GPR, are pretty much assembled Kit Guns.

 

[michael mcghee]

any place's need to be fixed?? the lock should use a little more.. has 5 coats of walnut stain on it... can you put tru- oil over the walnut stain??

 

[michael mcghee]

ran into a problem what is this?? can you file it out??? its on both side's.. got 5 coats of walnut stain and 1 coat of tru-oil.. the tru-oil made is stick out a sore thumb.. the stock where the tang is came out dark color then the rest of the stock...

 

[SDSmlf]

Natural grain of the wood.... Call it patina? Knock down the high gloss finish of the Tru-Oil and see how looks.

 

[Gonetocamp]

My guess is that those are chatter marks (?) left by what ever stock shaping machine Investarms used. I saw something similar on the forearm of my GPR when I applied a finish last week. I am not a muzzleloader builder but I was able to remove the marks with sandpaper. However, the marks on your muzzy are much more evident than what was on my 2011 GPR. Others will chime in but I suspect you will need to strip the Tru-Oil to address the chatter marks.

 

[Gonetocamp]

On second thought! It appears that "chatter marks" can be ruled out as you had to reduce the proud wood in some of those areas.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Did you whisker the wood as you were sanding it?

 

[michael mcghee]

Did you whisker the wood as you were sanding it?

yes run your hand from butt plate to forend its smooth run your hand up from the forend its like hairs on the stock?? hard to explain what it is?? should i whisker it going from the forend up to the butt plate???

 

[hawkeye2]

They are part of the grain of the wood. I had them in my Italian Mississippi and they will not take stain. I stripped the stock, reshaped parts of it, stained it a nice walnut and they are still there. I tried more stain applied to them with a brush, leather dye (alcohol base) and possibly other things to no avail. I even tried a black permanent felt tip marker in desperation, no joy. I sealed the finish and learned to live with them.

 

[michael mcghee]

will a different stain help any?? a local hardware store has boiled linseed oil??