What Greg said.
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Flash pan touch hole question
- Thread starter TreeMan
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I don't believe changing the vent hole position will help ignition in the slightest. You have already said it is reliable but just slow, no?
Erwan
45 Cal.
Well, that could be, that could be, you also know the fact that only shoot with an too much used vent hole (too big) change the speed of the ignition too, so I think that a too high position can do enough for inducing of a problem of speed (lower), not a fire in two times like a "PsshittBoom" for sure but, just a bit longer that the normal ignition...
Col. Batguano
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Look at some of Pletch's data regarding TH placement. What he found was, that, so long as the powder doesn't cover the TH, there was very little difference in ignition speed. Things like location and amount of sparks coming off the frizzen make much more difference.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
I wonder if you change TH angle so that it is more in line with the pan, but not at an angle where the jet would strike the pan ???
Jack Pierpoint
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Jack Pierpoint
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It is high. No doubt about that but, the size of the flame from a pan of burning powder is a lot higher than that so I don't think that is the problem with ignition.
On the other hand, IMO, the vent hole looks very small to me. It should be at least 1/16" in diameter to give good results.
If you haven't measured it, take a 1/16" drill bit and try sticking the unfluted end thru the hole. If it doesn't pass thru the hole, turn the drill around, chuck it up in a drill and drill thru the hole to bring it up to size.
If the liner is getting into the oblique flat(and it is), the hole is too high, but that shouldn't hurt the ignition. However, it is there so drill it out and see what happens. There are 7 numbered drill sizes between 1/16" and 5/64" As mentioned above the numbered drills from Harbor Freight work well for that.
What type of liner is it? It looks like it's in backwards
It is called a counterbored liner. Two ways to look at it. You can take the fire to the powder or the powder to the fire. Works about the same either way, but I don't care for the larger hole(reverse cone?) being visible in the barrel flat. That is why they make chocolate and vanilla to give everyone a choice.
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It’s NOT too high. If anything, it’s too thick. The cone should be on the back , not the front.
The fast touch hole brings the main charge out to the prime.
The fast touch hole brings the main charge out to the prime.
smoothshooter
50 Cal.
I would not assume the high vent hole is your problem. I have a rifle whose vent is so high that the upper part of it is visiblt above the pan cover with the frizzen closed. I do not like it that high for several reasons, but I must say it lights up as fast or faster as any of my other flint guns, ( with the exception of a .62 smoothbore with a Davis lock that needs a hammer replaced) and the others all have fast ignition.
Larry Pletcher
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It sounds like the vent is located high, and many posts have given solutions. It may sound dumb, but is the barrel bedded properly? Lowering the barrel a small amount may make a big difference. Makes me wonder if the percussion lock was mounted low to have space for the main spring. In a percussion this may not make a difference, but it would in a flint. Something about all this just doesn't seem right.
One item not covered in this discussion is spark location. I have handled locks that place most of their sparks ahead of the pan fence. An easy way to check this is to take a picture of the lock with a slow shutter speed and actually see where the sparks are landing. If the problem is sparks landing in front of the pan, you may need somebody good to tune the lock. Here is an example of a lock dumping sparks the right place:
Regards,
Pletch
One item not covered in this discussion is spark location. I have handled locks that place most of their sparks ahead of the pan fence. An easy way to check this is to take a picture of the lock with a slow shutter speed and actually see where the sparks are landing. If the problem is sparks landing in front of the pan, you may need somebody good to tune the lock. Here is an example of a lock dumping sparks the right place:
Regards,
Pletch
I am of a similar opinion to @Larry Pletcher. Before I would do much to alter the pan, the lock should be tuned for the best lock speed from your lock. My Derringer rifle has an L&R Late English lock. At first it seemed slow. I did a bit of polishing on the moving parts. I also started shooting it quite a bit. The more I shot it the faster the ignition. My touch hole was in a more optimal position at the "sunset" position above the pan, but really not much below the position of your touch hole.
If you are getting reliable ignition why mess with it? I have seen higher touch holes that worked fine. If you really want to do something, you can try a stainless bolt. Cut to aprox. length, install blank, drill the hole where you want it then cone the inside and file flush with bore.
