flint cleaning

[grizzly2c]

Hi
I am new to the forum, great site with tons of info. I was shooting my tc hawkin 50 cal. today. I have found mine to do best with the german agates, the black english flints are right up there also. My question pertains to cleaning the flint, after a few shots the flint kinda gets some powder residue on it. What is the proper method to cleaning it without ruining the flint. I usually just use some dish liquid soap and hot water with a toothbrush and then let air dry. I have heard that getting any flint wet will hurt it,is this true. I was planning on shooting some tomorrow also so as far as tonight should I just wipe it with a dry cloth?? Thanks in advance..

 

I get my flints wet everytime I clean the lock after shooting at the end of the day. It never has hurt my flints. I don't believe I have ever heard of such a thing. I use a old toothbrush and cold water and just give everything a good brushing and then wipe it down to dry it before I oil it.

 

[Tumblernotch]

You can wipe it off with a wet finger or damp cleaning patch. Water ain't going to hurt it a bit, the flint was in the ground for years. Now, the leather wrapped around the flint while it's in the jaw will get retain some water if it's wet a lot and will cause some rusting around the jaw screw, so you might want to take it out once in a while and maybe replace it with a dry one while it dries out. Generally, if you shoot enough the heat from the flash will help dry it.

 

[grizzly2c]

thanks and thats what I was thinking. As far as the german agates that I use, I see most people on here seem to favor the tom fuller english flints?? I did just order some flints from bill winters are they as good as the tom fuller english flint?? Do I ever need to knapp the german agates or just keep shooting them? Thanks again to you experts.

 

[roundball]

thanks and thats what I was thinking. As far as the german agates that I use, I see most people on here seem to favor the tom fuller english flints?? I did just order some flints from bill winters are they as good as the tom fuller english flint?? Do I ever need to knapp the german agates or just keep shooting them? Thanks again to you experts.

I agree wth everybody's comments too...water doesn't hurt them at all...when I clean my rifle I remove the jaw screw, top jaw, flint and leather...scrub them all in hot soapy water just like the barrel.
I keep a few flint leathers handy as part of the rotation so I don't put a wet leather back in the jaws...after cleaning a leather I set it aside to dry and install a clean dry one when I reassemble the rifle.

If the German agates are like ones I've seen from here, ie: "sawed flint material"...I don't believe they can actually be knapped...have to be resharpened with a file, belt sander, etc...real hand knapped gun-flints like Tom Fuller black english flints, or French amber flints can and are knapped.

 

[tg]

Rubbing alchohol works well to clean flints and the outer lock surface as well.

 

[FPDoc]

I found some 99% alcohol at the local farm supply in the veterinary section.. about $12 for a gallon. Nothing at all wrong with using rubbing alcohol except I have the 99% around for some of the "recipes" on here and so I use it for a final rinse after cleaning the lock etc. with water and before re-oiling (and I don't get yelled at for using all the bathroom alcohol up).

 

[roundball]

I also use alcohol to completely wipe/clean the lock 3-4 times during a range session...get a few bottles of 91% alcohol at Walmart every now and then

 

Do I ever need to knapp the german agates or just keep shooting them? .

Yes. When they quit sparking, just knap them same as any other flint. Often with the german sawn agates, when they quit sparking, it's just a small knob somewhere along the edge that's preventing the edge from biteing. Just knock that knob off and your back in business. I have some locks that prefer the agates and some that prefer knapped flints. The ones that like the agates outperform the ones that like the black english hands down. My everyday shooter has a Chambers golden age lock and uses agates and has yet to get less than 130 shots to a rock. If they left one end square rather than putting a bevel both ends I would likely get 200 shots easy from one.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Being I use presoaked patched. It the flint tis a bit yuky, then i use the patch to wipe it with, then send it down range yuk and all

 

[DougMPhoto]

Hey grizzly....whereabouts in SW PA you located? I'm just outside Pittsburgh SW suburbs.

 

[grizzly2c]

Thanks all for the great information.

I am in westmoreland county, very close to somerset county near 7 springs.. going out the door now to get some rubbing alcohol and a diamond file for the agates..

has anybody ever tried flints from bill winters. usa hand knapped..

 

[Bill Bryan]

I keep several patches moist with a mixture Balistol and Water. I wipe the flint after each shot. I've had flints last over a hundred shots doing it this way. I use the same mixture to lube patches and clean up the barrel and lock after shooting. It doesn't hurt the wood of the stock either.

 

[grizzly2c]

I keep several patches moist with a mixture Balistol and Water. I wipe the flint after each shot. I've had flints last over a hundred shots doing it this way. I use the same mixture to lube patches and clean up the barrel and lock after shooting. It doesn't hurt the wood of the stock either.

What is balistol?

I took the wife christmas shopping today and picked up some rubbing alcohol.. I also picked up a file to work on some of my old german agates like some folks have said to do. the one I got said black diamond file. ( bastard cut). I tried it real quick when we got home and maybe I need a different cut, it didnt seem to really remove any material.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Flint is generally harder than files. Get a diamond wheel for a dremel tool and use that to take off the humps.

 

[FPDoc]

Here is a suggestion for an item some of the guys here have recently been using to grind the hump off of regular flints. It think it would sharpen the cut/agate variety.

widgetsupply dot com/page/WS/PROD/
dremel-diamond-wheel-1/BDL34

It's $3.29 each (plus shipping so I got several when I got mine) - Item: BDL34
(a 3/4 inch x 3/8 inch 150 grit square edge diamond coated wheel, 1/8 inch shank).

 

[grizzly2c]

thanks alot guys. Now when you say take the bumps off, I was under the impression of this. Put flint in vise and try to resharpen to just like a new agate flint looks,actually making a new edge to it. To do this I am assuming laying the diamond wheel against the edge at the same angle as the flint, and just working it a bit.

 

[grizzly2c]

sorry I just reread the last few posts and aftre that I see your talking about grinding off the hump on the top of and english flint that makes it stubborn to set in the jaws. my bad

 

[FPDoc]

You are correct. You are using sawn or cut agate. the "humps" are on flints knapped in the traditional method and sometime make for a kind of gable or peak on one side. some folks like a flat top and bottom surface to clamp in the leather or lead wrap. You will just grind yours sharp like it was initially.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I haven't hopped on the diamond grit wheel as yet as I have a longtime supply of Mizzy wheels from[url] www.jewelrysupply.com[/url] that do the same thing (though aparantly not as well).

For cleaning the flint I use a cotton patch with some spit on it. I don't use anything with oil for the same reason I don't oil the face of my frizzen. Friction = spark. After a lot of shooting it needs a good scrubbing with some Ivory soap in water along with the bore. Doesn't seem to harm anything to leave the leather damp in the cock jaws, though I do disassemble the jaws and top-jaw screw occasionally and wipe them well with Birchwood Casey Sheath.