Flintlock smith needed

[deerstalkert]

looks like yours is to the rear a bit?? guess they had a bit of QA issue with these... thanks!

yep it is aft by bit. i actually had to cheat the pan aft a bit also. the other alternative was to cut the barrel and rebreach. of course that was its own bucket of worms. new barrel tennons etc.
i just posted that to show it could be it would shoot not that it was right. i agree 100% that it isn't correct.
but then, nothing i own and build is ever correct

 

[Eric Krewson]

From my experience with TC flintlock positioning, the problem isn't your barrel but the lousy positioning of the TC lock. The last two TC flintlocks I bought new had touch holes positioned in the back corner of the pan. I sent one of them back to TC, they said they didn't see a problem with the vent positioning.

If you move the barrel back your hooked breech may get into the lock bolt, then you have to grind of the back of the breech to accommodate the lock bolt. Been there done that on a L&R RPL lock swap.

I would shoot it like it is.

 

[exarcher]

one can't move the barrel back without creating a shitload more things to work on,,, ,, If GM don't take care of it, and i decide to correct it., i'll probably go with a new breech plug. (i have asked GM to consider this as this would be the best option in reality) . ... then i can fit the hook to the tang for a good tight fit & the flashole should be drilled after this & then everything will be lined up the way its supposed to be...... I bought this with intention of putting an L&R lock on it she will be a keeper for sure when i'm through with it.. (then the only part that is t/c will be the stock...

 

[longcruise]

Here's what I would do with it. Maybe unnecessarily complicated but when done it would be "right". I'd cut the barrel at the breech and replace the plug. Install the vent as you want it. Trim the underrib to fit. Re position or replace the under lug. Done.

 

[user 34300]

Why "cut the barrel". That has nothing to do with it.

IF a non vented plug is available that is a good option. Fit a new unvented plug. Put the touch hole where you want it.

This is not a trivial job. The plug needs to be timed to the barrel. The hook needs to be fitted to the tang. The plug needs to be blended to the barrel flats. The liner needs to be fitted. The powder chamber will need work. And finally re-blue the barrel. There are specialized tools needed to do it right.

Or just shoot it?

 

[exarcher]

Here's what I would do with it. Maybe unnecessarily complicated but when done it would be "right". I'd cut the barrel at the breech and replace the plug. Install the vent as you want it. Trim the underrib to fit. Re position or replace the under lug. Done.

why "cut" the barrel?? just unscrew the breech plug and put a new one on, the vent is in the plug..,,, There have been some really stange suggestions on this one! the timing ect is not that difficult on the lathe...

 

[longcruise]

why "cut" the barrel?? just unscrew the breech plug

I see what you are saying. In the initial photo the joint of the BP and the barrel is hidden by the frizzen. I thought it was conventionally breeched with the vent installed ahead of the BP face and through the barrel wall.

It just seemed like there had to be some kind of a real problem for you to query about solutions and particularly looking for a smith. You seem to have an understanding of how to install a BP so frankly, I don't understand why you made the initial post at all. Just go ahead and do it.

 

[Rob M.]

Going with that method, you would end up with a mess inside the bore from the vent being welded up. Electric drill? Drill press. What kind of gunsmith are you? Looking at your previous posts, it's obvious you have very little experience with muzzleloaders.

You read my mind . Wow ! Some of these answers !

 

[flconch53]

Back too my initial point. Until you look inside the barrel you can't know if the touchhole is located properly to the geometry of the breach plug. All these shade tree gunsmiths need to slow down a little

 

[DixieTexian]

Yep, if you can find an unveiled pluf that fits your rifle, that is certainly an option, but then you have to file the plug to fit your rifle and stock. That may be easier said then done.

 

[sturmkatze]

Yes i do know,,, it is supposed to be in the center of the pan period, Just because it goes "bang" don't mean its correct,, it just means it don't matter. , Ask any custom builder how many repeat purchases he would have with off center flash holes,, It may be cosmetic in the end,, but the flash hole is supposed to be centered in the pan. ps,, i shot my first black powder guns in the 70's.

You don’t know anything. As Jim Chambers said, it doesn’t matter. Just because you read some bloviation on the internet, you now think that you know. New people who think they know are dangerous and that is you.

Just put the touchhole liner in and shoot. And, you don’t need a bunch. I’ve never had to replace one of those. Newbie-isms.

Get some lessons before we hear that you’ve blown up your gun.

 

[deerstalkert]

this tread went south in record time. people need to cool their jets.

 

[exarcher]

turns out one of the half dozen extra tc tangs i have pulls it much closer to center,, (those cast parts vary quite a bit between lots or vendors!). it still has .005 gap between tang and breech plug,, which is nothing compared to the one that came on it,, & will require very little work to get it dead nuts flush. After i get a white lightning liner in it the flash hole will much better suit me..
.
The reason i asked for smith suggestions is i've had 3 knee replacements & a lower spine compression that makes standing at lathe or mill uncomfortable. i'd rather pay somebody else to do it these days. I'm not a "shade tree" smith like some of the "trolls" professing suggestions, i've done gun work for 30+ yrs now & shot for more than 50 & didn't ask for suggestions on how to fix it, i asked for the name of someone else to send it to... It has been entertaining to read others thoughts on it however ;>). One guy must be miserable??

Thanks to freedom475!, who noticed the gap between tang/plug in that first photo a simple fix became apparent.

here is photo with different tang,, This might help a t/c owner some day?? t/c had several variations on these over the yrs which makes a perfect drop in difficult..

 

[deerstalkert]

maybe i could find a breakaway like the one you replaced and get my liner moved forward!
mine shoots so well i hesitate to change anything. glad you got it to where it doesn't bug you.

 

[Cvkotvkse]

Regardless of what you do or don't do to it, if you are looking for someone with whom to burn some powder in July and August, my wife and I live across the line on Beech Mtn. during those months, and I'll have my flinters with me...

 

[exarcher]

Regardless of what you do or don't do to it, if you are looking for someone with whom to burn some powder in July and August, my wife and I live across the line on Beech Mtn. during those months, and I'll have my flinters with me...

beautiful country there,, i had a few classmates from hs go to Appalachian state and Lees McCrae in the late 70's, & the mountaineers & bobcats were fun to watch in football., while i was at ut knoxville, & samford in birmingham al. also, i was married 25 yrs ago in blowing rock,,, so i've been in the neighborhood a bit in the past.. Thanks!! but i'm more or less a hermit now myself, & don't even go to town more then a couple times a month.. Shoot well!! Kirk

 

[exarcher]

I'm just teasing and making light of the situation but I got to say it.... so I hope you receive this as lighthearted as I mean it..
From the looks of that lock and the way the hooked breech mates (doesn't) mate with the barrel, you don't have much value wrapped up in it, or much of a match winning rifle anyway. hahaha

Thanks Freedom475!! this photo is for you,, The tang that was on the rifle when i received it had at least a .015 gap between tang & breech plug.,, the current tang had .005, here it is post shimming,, the smallest shim stock i have is .0015 & it won't even think of going in,, should be good now eh?? Also, it won't be a match winning rifle anyway,, (I don't compete any more ;>),, though i've always wanted to attend the Alvin C. York memorial tournament in Pall Mal, Tn... maybe next year.. as it is in March every yr..) Good shooting!!

 

[exarcher]

From my experience with TC flintlock positioning, the problem isn't your barrel but the lousy positioning of the TC lock. The last two TC flintlocks I bought new had touch holes positioned in the back corner of the pan. I sent one of them back to TC, they said they didn't see a problem with the vent positioning.

If you move the barrel back your hooked breech may get into the lock bolt, then you have to grind of the back of the breech to accommodate the lock bolt. Been there done that on a L&R RPL lock swap.

View attachment 210965

I would shoot it like it is.

I didn't really understand what you had said,, but you are right,, but on mine it was not really the position of the lock, but position of the tang,, i moved it back but its not into the lock bolt either,, (mine is not sleeved like your photo.. i shot it several times, & it is very accurate, but it had a bit more delay than i would like so i set it back!! i've got it to suit me now!! If it is still too slow,, an L&R lock will be next. Thanks for letting me know what was really wrong!! Much simpler fix than replacing breech plug or moving flash hole on it!! Thanks again

 

[exarcher]

Wood is much easier to cut than steel (& i have lathes, & milling machines ect.) i did this with hand tools in about 30 minutes.. still have to fill the tang screw holes & drill new ones after the epoxy sets well...Hope it helps something, (like the pesky delay),,, it sure does look better positioned though!!!

 

[2 shots]

im truly amazed at some of the things people will tell others to do too ''fix'' a gun. weld it, glue it, have a monkey beat it with a bat at midnight. scary