Flintlock smith needed

[exarcher]

im truly amazed at some of the things people will tell others to do too ''fix'' a gun. weld it, glue it, have a monkey beat it with a bat at midnight. scary

experience!! when Eric mentioned moving the barrel back,, i saw metal work,, until it dawned on me what he meant.. easy fix after all!

 

[exarcher]

Regardless of what you do or don't do to it, if you are looking for someone with whom to burn some powder in July and August, my wife and I live across the line on Beech Mtn. during those months, and I'll have my flinters with me...

its nice country over there,, as a matter of fact , my wife & i got married close to there (Blowing Rock)... I don't travel much any more,, but will surely keep this in mind...

 

[Eric Krewson]

More advice; an L&R RPL lock is a much better lock but the swap the way I did it is a real pain. I inlettted the lock to line up the pan with the touch hole and had to do all the metal shaping, lock bolt repositioning, underrib cutting and such. If I were to do another the first thing I would do is put the TC lock bolt through the stock and into the socket on the L&R bridal and tighten it down some to see where the pan is going to sit in relation to the touch hole.

I did it back asswards, I inletted the lock to put the pan where it was supposed to be and then found out the lock bolt didn't come close to hitting the socket in the bridal. The die was cast and I had to change everything, including repositioning the lock bolt hole to get it in the right place.

I had to shim the back of the lock plate because I had moved the lock inlet forward to get the correct pan/touch hole positioning.

I figured out a neat way to drill a blind hole for the lock bolt to hit the socket. If you end up in a pickle over the lock bolt missing the socket, I can show you how to do it, with pictures. I photograph everything to share when the questions come up somewhere down the road.