Frame stretch

[William O.]

Oops! Sorry! In my previous post I was trying to quote myself to add that my Pietta is a .44. I somehow made a mistake in posting.

Having shot cowboy action for some ten years including the old cap-n-ball catagory I found that 22-23 grains gave great accuracy in both my standard length barrels as well as my 5 inch Sheriff's models, stainless or blued .44's. I did try using T-7 in my .45 cartidge conversions and quickly learned why only 2f is recommended. I'm sure that 20 grains would do give similar results, so buy a suitable powder measure for lower, more precise measurements. Last tip is to forget about using breakfast cereal in your revolver. Simply get some caliber appropriate fiber wads, lubed or not and place over the powder charge. Guards againboo9 lol ok

 

[Eutycus]

Having shot cowboy action for some ten years including the old cap-n-ball catagory I found that 22-23 grains gave great accuracy in both my standard length barrels as well as my 5 inch Sheriff's models, stainless or blued .44's. I did try using T-7 in my .45 cartidge conversions and quickly learned why only 2f is recommended. I'm sure that 20 grains would do give similar results, so buy a suitable powder measure for lower, more precise measurements. Last tip is to forget about using breakfast cereal in your revolver. Simply get some caliber appropriate fiber wads, lubed or not and place over the powder charge. Guards againboo9 lol ok

You got me curious about not using "breakfast cereal" as a filler, did something happen that gives you that negative feeling toward it as a filler?

 

[William O.]

You got me curious about not using "breakfast cereal" as a filler, did something happen that gives you that negative feeling toward it as a filler?

First off let me say that my last sentence should have ended with "guards against chain fire." I think I may have dropped my tablet before posting my comments. As far as breakfast cereal goes, I hate Cream of Wheat, so as far as using that as a filler, or using corn meal or any other type of food is a messy waste of time in my opinion. Powder, wad then ball and it's good to go.

 

[Desperate Lee]

Somewhere i read one time of a brass revolver that had it's recoil ring cut out and replaced with a steel ring. That man must have really loved that brasser. It could not have been easy.
DL

 

[Zonie]

You got me curious about not using "breakfast cereal" as a filler, did something happen that gives you that negative feeling toward it as a filler?

I'm betting he tried using some wheat as a filler and ended up with this stuff laying all over the place downrange. It's, "SHOT FROM GUNS".

®

 

[M. De Land]

Somewhere i read one time of a brass revolver that had it's recoil ring cut out and replaced with a steel ring. That man must have really loved that brasser. It could not have been easy.
DL

I had that very idea of finding a "stretched" brass frame and silver soldering in a steel bushing with the abore thread and recoil shield replacement. I think that would address both the loading lever angular pressure loosening the threads and the cylinder ratchet imprinting in the recoil shield issues in brass frames.

 

[Desperate Lee]

Check this out.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-revolvers&s=7f7981b390d6fcec5abdf86fe3697478Interesting .
DL

 

[sourdough]

I had that very idea of finding a "stretched" brass frame and silver soldering in a steel bushing with the a bore thread and recoil shield replacement. I think that would address both the loading lever angular pressure loosening the threads and the cylinder ratchet imprinting in the recoil shield issues in brass frames.

I have seen that before and it seems to work. Got to be a lot better than the brass recoil shield. Must have been a very special revolver or an experiment to rectify the problem.

 

[Desperate Lee]

More good reading to clarify things or confuse you more.
https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showthread.php/9010-Brass-Framed-Revolvers-Myths-and-Myths-Part-4
As i said before load off gun, reduce loads to 20 to 25 grns pure black and use lead round balls. Should be good for years.
DL

 

[M. De Land]

More good reading to clarify things or confuse you more.
https://www.n-ssa.net/vbforum/showthread.php/9010-Brass-Framed-Revolvers-Myths-and-Myths-Part-4
As i said before load off gun, reduce loads to 20 to 25 grns pure black and use lead round balls. Should be good for years.
DL

Here's an idea of the event chain of what I think may happen with brass frame guns. I think the loading of over sized balls shaving lead is what starts the problem as the arbor is angular pressured on a tangent to it's anchor axis in the threaded frame. This loosens the brass threads and then along with the pressure of the barrel being forced forward and in line the arbor threads loosen /stretch . At each discharge the barrel is forced forward as the cylinder is driven rearward thus increasing the gap over time. As the cylinder gap increases and the hammer drop drives it forward farther before the charge ignites then the cylinder has more room for run at the recoil shield. Finally the ratchet starts to imprint in the brass increasing the cylinder gap even more until the gun quits working properly.
My guess is the ratchet would never imprint in the brass recoil shield without the increase room to get a run at it under recoil.
Now lets look at a counter thought, why does not low charge brass frame guns not imprint their cylinders into the shield ( if they actually don't and it's not just at a slower rate) when oversized lead balls are being loaded in them as well? I like to have a view of both sides of an equation.

 

[Desperate Lee]

Here's an idea of the event chain of what I think may happen with brass frame guns. I think the loading of over sized balls shaving lead is what starts the problem as the arbor is angular pressured on a tangent to it's anchor axis in the threaded frame. This loosens the brass threads and then along with the pressure of the barrel being forced forward and in line the arbor threads loosen /stretch . At each discharge the barrel is forced forward as the cylinder is driven rearward thus increasing the gap over time. As the cylinder gap increases and the hammer drop drives it forward farther before the charge ignites then the cylinder has more room for run at the recoil shield. Finally the ratchet starts to imprint in the brass increasing the cylinder gap even more until the gun quits working properly.
My guess is the ratchet would never imprint in the brass recoil shield without the increase room to get a run at it under recoil.
Now lets look at a counter thought, why does not low charge brass frame guns not imprint their cylinders into the shield ( if they actually don't and it's not just at a slower rate) when oversized lead balls are being loaded in them as well? I like to have a view of both sides of an equation.

Brother you have got it. Thats how it works. That is it in a nut shell. I have 5 brass framed Colts. All are 44's except one snubby 36. I have fired hundreds of rounds thru them. I punch paper. I dont knock down steel. That lighter loads are the most accurate loads. If i want to pound steel i do it with my ASP and Pietta NMA 44's or i grab my Uberti Cattleman in 45LC.
DL